Synlubes Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Jon, This is just my side of it, I`ll like Mike speak for himself. 1 = cost 2 = I don`t need camber plates. 3 = just to do it and have something that will suit my needs. This is a first prototype. Objective for me = a mounting point that can move so I don`t break a shock shaft and I don`t want to cut up my car that much (yet). My car sees track use (very little street) and I want the front (& rear) to be as low as it can be while maintaining 3" + or - shock travel. I am not yet using coil overs and looking to get all I can from a "stock" suspension setup (better shocks and springs). I already have adjustable front control arms that will give much more adjustability than camber plates. These "plates" will allow use of a needle bearing setup to loose a little more hieght over the stock frt bearing and the rear bushing/spacer. John B, this looks like what I am after. Can you provide me with details/drawing for the front plates? All comments, recommendations are welcomed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Undue? I haven't seen stress cracks there on mine. If it happens, oh well. It is the cost of racing and it will be repaired and beefed up better than new. If you are worried about it, then don't go that way. Stick to the rubber isolators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 I could, eventually when I take them off again. I don't plan on having my front end apart again for another couple months though. They are just the top and bottom aluminum plates, a monoball and 3 bolts to hold them together. The monball is pressed into one plate. Don't forget the cone washer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 19, 2004 Author Share Posted November 19, 2004 Here is WHY I did this... I can afford camberplates, but some guys can't. I also can DO things in my shop with steel and metal... I figured for $100 I could get ALL FOUR CORNERS done possibly and yea, I have a couple hours in doing it... Beats sitting on my ass and scrolling the computer... I also have a full adjustable front and rear and just wanted to reduce ride height without sectioning the strut. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 I really hope I'm not coming across like an ******* on this one. I'm not trying to denegrate the idea. I DO appreciate what you guys are trying to do, I just think that if you're 90% of the way there, you might as well go the last 10%. Or just buy the right part first and not have to mess with it. But if you're going to the trouble of doing all the machining, make a slotted top piece and make it a camber plate. It's not that much more hassle (almost no work at all) and now the adjustment is there IF you want it. You could drill a couple offset holes in the ones Tom made and make them work like the EMI plates and use them to adjust caster too. I just think back to a post that John B made a while back and he was modifying the rear strut towers so that he could take out negative camber because his bias ply tires don't like lots of neg camber. With camber plates that might very well have been a 2 minute adjustment (for both sides). I know I can adjust out quite a bit. I had mine down to ~1.5 in the back and still had more to go IIRC. You start trying to align a car that is a little tweaked with control arm lengths and I think you might have a hard time getting the thrust angles all correct. If you can adjust top and bottom you can fix just about anything on an alignment rack. Tom Holt's stuff is freakin awesome, BTW. That car is just incredible. As to RPMs concerns, I'm more worried about the sway bars cracking the frame rails than the camber plates damaging the strut towers, but like John B says, it's a race car. If it breaks, you fix it and make it stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 19, 2004 Author Share Posted November 19, 2004 Jon, I know you didn't intend to offend me... I was just slapped in the face by the comment is all... it was me taking it wrong more so than what you said... But, again, This IS hybridZ where we do recreate the wheel all the time... and your comment about going the extra 10% is where I'd be right now if I had my oxygen bottle filled (Waiting on my supplier who said it would be in today! I'm on an exchange program...)... I drew out an adjustable plate, but have no way to cut it at the moment... On the topic of the spherical ball taking the pivotal steering loads as well as the thrust angle loads of the strut, I have e-mailed and gotten confirmation from several of the vendors of camber plates (Several within the last 10 hours actually) that they don't use a bearing in conjunction with the monoball... This kinda confirms what I thought... Although I know at least one vendor does use needle bearings, my guess is it is overkill... Regardless, ill be using the monoball setup in the rear forsure, and I'm probably gonna use something similar in the front, but maybe with a camber plate... We'll see! Mike 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Jon, I have GC camber plates in the back. All the work I did to mount them was to facilitate adjustments that allowed removing neg. camber with them. They seem to be designed to add neg. camber to a stock ride height car. I have raised my ride height an inch since then to allow 245-45 16 DOT radial slicks to fit without rubbing the fenders in the corners. So I added a little camber back in the rear too. I need to add another degree or so of neg camber in the front, and I think I'll do that via adjustable lower control arms. Then when I eventually add a strut tower bar to the front, I won't have to make it adjustable, and it will have adjustable caster too. I still need a toe-in adjuster in the rear. That would have helped prevent the wreck that bent up my car at a DE/TT event earlier this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted November 20, 2004 Share Posted November 20, 2004 Mike, Maybe this site will have some components that will be helpful. I was skimming through their catalog, and saw some hardware that I hope could be useful.... http://www.bsrproducts.com/homepage.cfm Stan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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