240Z2NV Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 OK, so where do I find the "Gallery"? Thanks for posting pics nonetheless... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. G. Olphart Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 Top of the page, first blue line: album. Then to member galleries. (Mine is indexed under A. G. Olphart, 1st page of the index). I don't know if you need to be logged in to view them or not; not really familiar with that part of the board yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 Someone else here made their own, MatGNZ?, using sched. 40 pipe. Don't know if the post still exists... Terry, I breezed through this post, but from what I understand, your control arms aren't on-car adjustable are they? Meanding, you have to unbolt one end or the other to make adjustments? Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 I forgot about those... just went downstairs and took a few pictures. It had been left out in the rain, so it's kind of rusty . This was just an exercise in engineering, plus I had just bought my welder at the time and needed something to do. It's still a good design, but I would make quite a few changes. Please ignore the crappy welds, I was a novice. Click the links: ACA 1 ACA 2 ACA 3 ACA 4 ACA 5 ACA 4 is a suspension piece that came off a cirlce track car. It's left hand/right hand threaded, so it's on-car adjustable. Maybe down the road I'll redesign these and try 'em out on the track, right now I'm just to dang busy to putz around with it. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumbo240ez Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Hey Dan that "Battle version" kit looks pretty simple... just cut and weld. Neat! Save time, money, stress for $185.00. Anyone here install it? jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 30, 2004 Author Share Posted November 30, 2004 Ordered the rod end bearings today. The thread length (depth) of the rod ends is 1.72" Since minimum grip should be no less than one diameter that leaves just under 1" of total adjustment. Anybody know what this translates into camber angle range? I'm hoping this will give me enough adjustment without having to buy camber plates. Should I bottom the theaded rod (bolt with head cut off) in the rod end then back it out 1/2" and then jig it up and weld it to match the stock arm length? This way I should have 1/2" of adjustment both in and out. Or should I bias my initial set up one way or the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumbo240ez Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Dan, I only have experience with camber plates, but it was some thing like .5" or so per degree of change. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Dan, Since it is a front wheel adjustment, you won't often find a need to give a lot of positive Camber, so I'd give no more than 1/4 inch for outboard adjustment. Our turnbuckles never used more than 1.5 inches total (Both ends threaded) to adjust out to 2+ degrees negative camber. Your street car shouldn't require more than 1.5 degrees of negative camber, so you should be fine! You are correct in that you should not extend the threaded section past 50% of the whole length. That is the issue that concerns me with Matt's design above. Not enough threaded steel going into the control arm. Also, the kit listed above is WAY overpriced. I can put together a kit for anyone who wants it for $100 shipped and still make a few bucks... The Zcar control arm is already a boxed unit and wouldn't require nearly the fabrication. Mike 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 30, 2004 Author Share Posted November 30, 2004 Thanks guys, Anybody know what the stock camber setting is? My main concern is proper handling and even tire wear. Like Mike said, this is a street car.The car will be about 3" lower than stock with wide (265) tires in front. I have a pair of MSA's 25mm strut spacers to go on with the new arms. Jon measured my camber last weekend at his place when we were sectioning a pair of struts as part of this whole front end rebuild. I have more negative camber on one side than the other. I'm going to try and correct some of that with the placement of the new arm pivot holes in the crossmember. Given my set up and how the car is used can anyone here recommend an appropriate camber setting? Just so I have this right: / =negative camber, / =positive camber. Right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Mike, $100 shipped has got my tiny brain gears turning...what is this "kit"? Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Mike, Does your kit require 'cores'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 You guys make this to easy... First, Dan, YES your idea on camber is correct... For the rest of you guys, I'll post IN THIS THREAD all the part numbers for YOU TO ORDER what you need... If you have a welder, and any means of cutting metal, I can provide you with the parts you will need to do your very own adjustable (NOT ON CAR) control arms... for a LOT less than $180... 2 3/4 heim joints (one right, one left, BOTH MALE) 1 7 inch long 3/4 inch female THREADED 1 inch diameter Tube (ussually found in the SCP or COLEMAN racing front suspension category 2 3/4inch Grade 8 3 inch bolt/nut/washer combos 1 section of black steel pipe or aluminum tubing 3/4 ID for spacers... You need a welder, a drill with a unibit or 3/4 inch bit, and a grinder/chopsaw/ bandsaw... something to CUT the tubing with... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 I think Mikelly implied that he can piece together a kit consisting of the heim joint, threaded collar and misc, and you cut and weld your own control arms. No cores required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Exactly! Alex gets the prize... Seriously, these parts are readily available and can be shipped to you from ANY of the vendors... If you don't feel comfortable, and would like someone to piece a kit together and provide step by step instructions, I can do that... For a fee... You would STILL be required to do the work of welding and isntalling... as well as cutting your own arms... Mike 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Just out of curiosity, what would it take to make these "On Car" adjustable? I note that it has been emphasized that these are NOT on car adjustable; but, some of you guys are so damn good at engineering, it seems as though it should be doable.....?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Thanks Mike Kelly! The non-adjustable part is too bad but for the price, I can't complain. But here's an idea. Matt, On that circle track piece, I assume you are talking about the hex shaped thing. Is that male on one side and female on the other? Taking into account what Mike said about enough threads in the control arm side, and guessing on what Terry did, couldn't I just weld in a female part instead of a bolt with the head cut off? That would make it fully adjustable on the car as long as the threads on the circle track piece are right and left at opposite ends. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Pics of my control arms for reference. * Edit * (12-9.04) With the site changes the pics were no longer displayed. Ck the link to my site and go the the Z Car Page (link at top right) to see the control arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 It looks as though there is a rubber 'sleeve' on the top pair. If so, where does one get those? Thanks for the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Matt' date='On that circle track piece, I assume you are talking about the hex shaped thing. Is that male on one side and female on the other? Taking into account what Mike said about enough threads in the control arm side, and guessing on what Terry did, couldn't I just weld in a female part instead of a bolt with the head cut off? That would make it fully adjustable on the car as long as the threads on the circle track piece are right and left at opposite ends. Owen[/quote'] Yes, that hex shaped thing is male on one side which is left hand threaded and female on the other side which is right hand threaded. So, you just loosen the two jam nuts and turn the hex shaped thing. There actually is more threads inside the nuts than the diameter of the threads on the hex shaped thing (man, I really need to find out what it's called ) it's just hard to see. If I were to do it over, the schedule 40 pipe would get replaced with seamless DOM tubing and the gussets (which would be smaller than those pictured) would be welded to the head of the bolt. The end that goes into the remaining part of the stock control arm would be a much thicker piece of steel and this piece would be drilled and tapped to accept the male end of the hex shaped thing. I did find the left hand tap to do this, just never puchased it. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 It looks as though there is a rubber 'sleeve' on the top pair. If so, where does one get those? Thanks for the pics! That's the bottom of the control arm . The welding was blended in very well and all of it was painted very nicely. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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