Guest bastaad525 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Well it's almost X-mas... I'm pushing the LM-1 as THE gift for my wife to get me this year. Long past the time when I SHOULD have bought it and saved myself a few hundred dollars of dyno time (I know I know). I did have a few questions though. As far as I can tell, the base LM-1 ONLY measures the a/f ratio... but does have a datalogging feature. So, when you look at what it's recorded does it just show the ratio 'over time'? Am I able to 'play back' the recordings on the unit itself or do I need to hook it up to a computer to do so? I don't have a laptop so... For you guys that are using it, did you buy the RPM sensing hookup? Or the whole schebang, $500+ kit? Would you consider any of these a necessity or have had good progress tuning with just the base unit? I'm going to be getting some optional parts for my RRFPR, that will let me adjust the onset curve of the pressure gain... I am hoping I can use these with the LM-1 to tune not only my final, WOT fuel pressure, but to tune out the inherently partial boost part of the fuel curve, and really end up with the best most stable and usuable powerband possible... is the LM-1 even the right tool to get this done? Maybe I would be better off just getting an in-car fuel pressure gauge and using that to tune the FPR instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Also, is there any problem installing the supplied O2 sensor in stock O2 sensor bung on the stock turbo downpipe? I dont run the O2 sensor anyways, so no concern there. However, the LM-1 website says not to install the sensor in a location that exceeds 900* F. I would think it gets hotter than 900* F just after the turbo, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 I would look into one of these http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm $400, you get a datalogging feature and a display. Can add the boost and EGT and datalog those too. (also can be logged) Looks nicer than a LM-1 unit IMO The sensor can be after the turbine wheel, it'll last longer if the sensor doesn't see 800-900C deg all the time. I have mine right after the turbine in the stock location and it hasn't give me a hick up yet. The sensor is cheap now anyway. One thing is to keep the sensor from getting wet. so the mount the bung at 10-2 o'clock position. The company is in CA so you might be able to get a local discount or something. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 You could use the stock O2 sensor bung. I have never used the data logging as I can make adjustments on the fly so I just look and tune. It does come with the software though. You do need to use the computer to play it back. Mine is right on the downpipe, behind the stock one . Some people have had the sensor get to hot, it will show an error code. The sensors temperature has to mantain as certain degreee unlike narrow bands that just need to reach a min temp. You just need to reset the box if you get an error.. I used a small heat sheild to disipate some heat and haven't had any problems and mine about 5" from the turbine outlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 I install mine in the stock o2 location with no problems so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 You might have to dremel out the hole under the bung in order to get the wideband sensor in. Narrowband sensors are a slightly smaller diameter and sometimes whoever installed them originally only drilled a whole big enough for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 According to the guy who made the LM1, he says you should mount the O2 sensor at least 18 inches past the turbo. We tried tuning an SR20DET with the sensor mounted right behind the turbo and it read crazy readings... we had the car all out of whack until we realized the sensor was getting too hot. (800+ celcius) The LM1 needs the RPM sensing cable to read RPM, without it, you can only datalog voltages and A/F. You don't need the Aux Box ($500 thingy) unless you have an old school engine and no sensors built it. My favorite thing about the LM1 is the outputs. They are PROGRAMMABLE to anything you want them to be within 0-5volts. I haven't seen any other wideband on the market that does this. That means you can display your A/F with any device that reads voltage. You can hook it up to a $30 A/F gauge and tweak it to read dead-on accurate. You could also just output to a voltmeter, like I do. I use the Apexi turbo timer which displays O2 sensor voltage. I programmed the Lm1 to read A/F correctly on the Apexi timer, and no need to put anything else on my dash. The box sits inthe glove compartment, and never comes out. I run the other output to my Tec3 for datalogging on there. In friends cars, I've hooked these up using the RPM sensing cable, and datalogging A/F, RPM, MAF voltage, Boost, and TPS. It works great for tuning like this. If you don't need all these features, hold out a bit and get the new model thats coming out... it will be the stripped down version and very cheap by comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Thanks for the info guys... HEY, has anyone else heard about or used this Zeitronix unit that yo2001 posted? Has more features than the LM-1 and it is a bit cheaper to boot. Looks nicer than that big ol' plastic box as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afshin Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 http://jubjub.mine.nu/wbparts.html I just ordered this kit, assembly should be pretty easy (as opposed to a megasquirt board). I also ordered a premade LED display unit at $42 and $23 for the kit. For the O2 sensor, this unit only uses the expensive type, but you can get a cheap used one of a civic, the is a link to wich one.... I will post an update after i test it. The total should be about $100, and best of all you make it yourself (and it should not be hard). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 In this case I'd really rather skip any DIY stuff...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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