EvilC Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 Hello everyone, I am a new owner of a 76' 280z with 61k. I have been reading the forums for about the past 2 months and I have decided that the best way is to ask questions. I have used the search feature of the site but I think the best answers I will get is if I asked them even though I know that have been asked many of times so please be kind...I just bought the car for $800 here in Ny. The body is in great cond because it was garage kept for the past 9 years but the frame rails are gone gone gone. So where i want to start with this car is replacing the frame rails and installing a roll cage. I am going to install Ls1 so i wanted to know if anyone can help me out with info on how about to go with this reinforcement of the chassis. Any sites sell roll cages prefabbed?.... and what is the best way to get this welded the to new tube frame rails..... and can someone explain how all this gets tied in with the subframe..I am very sorry for a question that may sound stupid to most of you but we all have to learn at some point. Thank you everyone in advance who will help me in anyway....... project Ls1 starts today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 If the frame rails are gone then there is probably lots of other rust you can't see or that has been bondo'd and painted over. If you want an LS1 you need to start with a car that has little to no rust. I happen to have a 240Z for sale in the DC area. It would make a great Hybrid. See the car and info here: Check out both links. http://members.cardomain.com/eastcoast240z More pics and info here: http://members.cardomain.com/eastcoast240zp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sven Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 *It's time for "tough love"* -Having spent thousands with my last Z on "just" frame rails and floorboards, ending up with a car that was still as stiff as a wet noodle... start over. It's not nice to hear, but honest and realistic. Some of us had to learn the painful way. At $800, the car is not a loss and is a good deal for a parts car. You can find a decent affordable Z for little $ if you look hard enough. If the frame rails are already gone, then be afraid of what lurks elsewhere. Unless you have some super rare 432-Z that was shipped to America, it's just not worth it. The unibody is much more than what you see. There are unseen joints in nooks and crannies that contribute greatly to chassis rigidity. Shady sellers often hide things behind pretty bodywork and undercoating. My 260 was showcar beautiful, inside and out, but honestly dangerous to drive - even after the frame repairs. It handled unpredictably. You'll be chasing down structural problems forever instead of doing what we all want to do...make a stinking fast Z. I would have had a Hybrid finished years ago if I had been smart. Be honest with yourself and what you can afford. It's much cheaper to start with a solid car. A well prepared Z is a fantastic car to drive, I wish you luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 22, 2004 Author Share Posted December 22, 2004 I do not think the car I bought should be used as a parts car for the condition it is in. Living in the northeast here it is expected for the car to have lots of rust. I believe the car for the project I am taking up is just right. I am not trying to have the car up and running in 3 months and I do plan on taking my time. I will be stripping the car bare and repairing all the rust for 2 reasons...1 I do not have the money to spend a 240 or 280 without any rust...2 I will have to reinforce the chassis anyway so why not repair a car with rusted out frame rails. If I am very wrong please will someone let me know =) And can someone resond that has done the LS1 swap and had to deal with rust.......Thanz alot guys for the quick responce before and those to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone Star 1 Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 It's very hard to say without seeing the car in person. It's hard to think that if the frame rails are as bad as you say, that all the other rust spots don't have gaping holes in them also. Are the frame rails just rusty looking or are they crumbing away? Surface rust is not a problem, but if you can poke a screw driver through the rail you've got trouble. A rotted out car will be a pain in the butt! Do a good inspection and let us know what you find. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 I read an article in one of the Z car magazines that helped you to access the severity of the rust damage on your car and decide if you should use it or find another car to work with. The article was in an issue that was all about V8 Z cars. It used a point system and assigned points to the different areas of the car that are prone to rust to determine if you should consider that car for a project. It mentioned that the frame rails were one area (along with the firewall) that really should be in good shape as replacing the framerails can throw off the structural integrity of the car. It is not easy to replace them and keep the car square and true. I am in the process of installing an LS1 in my rust free 240Z (see it here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/qwik240z More Pics here: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopo...amp;ppuser=4628 ) and I would never consider a rusty car as a starting point for any V8 conversion. The V8's torque will push the car to it's limits. It seems that you are on a limited budget and are really trying to talk yourself into being able to use the car you have. How about posting some pics of the rusty areas and letting the guys on the list that have years of Z car experience have a look and help you to determine if it is too bad to use? I would hate to see you sink tons of time and money into a heap of rust when you could sell it or part it out and start with a solid car that will provide you years of enjoyment. Just my opinion but......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 Hey guys, finally got the pictures of the car and of the chassis......but I dont know how to post them...I have been trying all night with no luck.... can someone help here so i can get these pics posted for you to see. Thanx again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Send them to me at dat74z@yahoo.com... I'd like to take a look, and have been a party to several frame rail/ floorpan installs and can tell you first hand if it is worth fixing... And I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that NO floorpan rust is bad enough to scrap an otherwise good car... You guys saw Pics of Jim McNemar's car. It is GORGIOUS... Floorpans and rails were GONE... From the TC Box all the way to the back... GONE... Not anymore. If you can do it yourself, BUY THE PREMADE floor pans, and BUY the Framerail kit offered by one of the members here, and isntall it yourself for the cost of a welder and gas, and be done with it... So long as you are capable of doing it yourself, it is fixable and worth the effort. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 Mike I have fwd the pics to you. I hope you have good news for me =)....anyone else would like to see or can tell me how to post it in this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Yup, that is about as bad as JIm's were. This is absolutely fixable, and expensive to do so, unless you do it yourself. Check with a few of the vendors to locate the floorpan kit, and then plan to cut the floorpans out, and use Pete Paraska's Framerail blueprints and do the whole thing RIGHT! Once you install those framerails, you'll be done... Car will be stiffer than anything else you could do, except installing a cage. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 Thank you for the quick responses.... I am using the search feature trying to find someone here who sells the framerails and the floor pan. I have an uncle who does body work, so this will be a do it myself job. The question I have is when i replace the framerails and floor pan...can I install a roll cage that would weld to the chassis and if so are there prefag roll cages available to purchase? Sorry if sounds like a another stupid question....but it all new to me. Thanx again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 ZEDD Findings is one of the companies that sells the floor pan kits, but you can get them from (Dare I say) MSA as well as Victory Brittish. I'd OPT for making your frame rails from the blueprints found here: http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm As for pre-made cages... Yes, there are two that are readily available, but I don't like them... The S&W Rollcage kit here: http://www.swracecars.com/ and the kit offered by http://www.jegs.com is another option. Reason I say I don't like them is because they are drag racing oriented and NOT designed to function as well for road course stuff, but may suit your needs, depending on what you intend to use the car for. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 I wonder if http://www.streetneeds.com works for posting pics on this url. I have used it for my z32 pics, but not for my Hybridz. Actually, what I did was to get a free website from http://www.Geocities.com. On here you can post pics as you get them for all to see by listing your personal website on this website. Hope this helps. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 30, 2004 Author Share Posted December 30, 2004 Ferd thanks for the input. Here it is http://www.geocities.com/evilc76/ I am open to any input from everyone. Ferd what kind of roll cage is that you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 I have 8 point 1.5 inch roll cage that was custom made and installed. I am not sure what thickness they used I will gues at .120 but dont really know. It was welded, starting from the back, to the rear wheel wells and rear of door frame area, and area by knees and just back of feet on frame. I will try to post some more pics in my website of the roll cage. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share Posted January 6, 2005 OK OK OK OK. I have now put my car up for sale. It is located in NYC. Make an offer. Car runs and drives. I am just going to wait and find a better car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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