Mikelly Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 So yesterday afternoon, between moving furnature for new carpet installation in my music room and the master bedroom/ stairs and dealing with the Dish Network installation at our house, I took 30 minutes to re-install the timing chaing cover and install the balancer... So I bolt everything back up, and get my driver tool... start installing the balancer when the tool feels VERY tight... I back it off and check the threads on the installer to make sure I'm not bottoming the tool out again... Nope... So I reinstall it again and start snugging everything down and AGAIN it gets VERY tight, like the balancer is binding on something... it has gone on now without the cover on, so I'm really concerned... I put just a tad more torque on it when SNAP... the end of the tool breaks off IN the damned crank shaft right as the DISHNET guy comes into the garage... He is somewhat of a gearhead and when he sees me do that, he thinks the crank is trashed... of course I've done this before, and know that all it takes is a pick and some patience, because you have to back out the portion of tool... which I show him how to do real quick... But I'm still at a loss... the balancer goes on with ZERO drama with the TC cover off... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Dude, that does suck. I have read through your other posts on this issue. I wish I had some input for you. I can't imagine what the problem is. The only thing I can think of is if you are using the tool in a different manor. I have never used one so I don't know, but like on a puller, there is a long and short set of arms, could something like that be affecting the push that the installer has? Just trying to give some support... Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 Bill, the installer works completely differently... has a threaded shaft that threads into the cranks, and then another threaded (LArger diameter) portion of the shaft has a bearing and a nut, which you turn against the bearing to drive the balancer on... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Only thing I can think of, Mike, is that the keyway has slipped, or the crank has become scored. Also, sometimes when the keyway in the crank slips, it scores the damper 'slot' which creates havock. Maybe try cooling the crank snout and warming the damper......and copious amounts of WD-40... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deMideon Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 These SBC balancers really piss me off... The L6 go on so easily no install tool they just slide right on. the Key is there to keep them from turning, so why does Chevy have to make the !#!&%&!*!!! things so tight? Does anyone see anything wrong with machining a very small amount of matirial out of the balancer so it slides on easily? Do ya think it would cause problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 Actually yes, I understand why it is soooo tight... It is designed just like Piston pins... Interferance fit... I'll heat it up, as that is likely the culprit. I checked the key and the keyway in the balancer... when I installed it without the TC on, the balancer had sat in front of my torpedo heater, nice and toasty and the motor WAS COLD... So I suspect an amount of heat (Not a lot, but say 150-170 degrees) will aid in it going on... It came to me today when I was noodling this around... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deMideon Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Why do they use an interference fit when other manufacturers don't... like the L6... how is the key not enough in this application where it is in others. I really would like to know... if anyone out there has the answer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 I usually take the keyway and run it over some emery cloth. I also run emery cloth over the crank snout as well as th inside of the balancer. I do not do it so much that I'm really taking any metal off, just sort of cleaning it. I also make sure the keyway is free from burs. I've never used an installer. I've always used the crank bolt for final tightening. A rubber mallot for taping it into place. When I get it tight, I pull the bolt back out and use a little lock tight on it. I am in no way trying to belittle your intellagence. I'm also mystified as you are when it will go on with out the timing cover. This is a strange one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Bashing on the balancer is not a good idea for the thrust bearing in side by the crankshaft. Just a heads up. It can mess up that thrust bearing if you hit too hard. I have too broken an installer and it sucks big time! Just lots of putzing around to get the broken piece out! I like Tims idea....hot/cold with some lube!LOL Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonE Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 In last months Hot Rod magazine(the one with the 05' mustang running 12s), they have an article on a camaro they built for the salt flats. In one picture it shows them using a nitrous bottle to cool the end of the crank to install the balancer. I would look up the details but I left it at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Damn that sux, I remember a year or two ago I posted this question and you advised me how to fix it too! I also threw the thing in the oven and then was able to install it no probs. Hope it works out. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 To cool the crank snout, hold a can of compressed air (like for cleaning keyboards) upside down and spray...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Mike, I usually take a brake cyl hone or a flap wheel and hit the ID of the damper a few licks. It doesn't take much honing to open it up so it goes on with a reasonable amount of force. I don't think it should take over 40 or so ft/# on the installation tool to put a damper on. Also take a small file or some emory cloth and make sure the crank snout doesn't have any burrs from previous attempts to put it on. On my last build I used a fluidamper and it was very tight, it wouldn't even start on the snout without a little honing. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Mike, so how did the heat soak method work? Sounds like it's the way to go. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 30, 2004 Author Share Posted December 30, 2004 Bill, I've got such a mess at the house right now, I probably won't even get to it this weekend... But when I do I'll either heat it, or hone it, one of the two... friggin' carpet install was a mess, and I've got furniture scattered everywhere, PLUS all kinds of other useless crap, which I finally broke down and threw out... On top of that the carpet looks so good, the wife wants to paint THIS weekend... so now I'll be painting the master bedroom and the music room, walls, ceilings and trim... Won't get back to the garage until next week sometime... So much for a new years shindig! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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