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Ole Blue's motor is done...


Guest ON3GO

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Thanks to Olie and my friend Darren for helping, and for Ted for coming over and giving advice and tips :)..

Olie did one hell of a job the the 60mm t-body install, and it came out looking sweet!

Theres still a few things i gotta fixed or tweek but its done, im sure problems will pop up in the next few days but i dont care.

this motor install has been pure hell, with the machine shop loosing alot of bolts and me breaking things, or stripping bolts or whatever! pure hell!!!1!!!

tomorrow its off to the junkyard to maybe find the right bolts for the right parts (if i even wanna take it apart again) and pick up my sparco racing seat.

 

i hate this car!

 

mike

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tomorrow we will fire it up, im gonna go over all the bolts again tomorrow and clean out the interior and wire in the autometer water temp gauge and fix my boost gauge. Install the sparco seat, and start sanding the hood for new black paint :).

might do a few other things but i need it running by tomorrow..

 

oh and i gonna make mounts for the fmic..

 

mike

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well ted came over again tonight and me and him adjusted my valves.

got it running great but the bov doesnt work and it sorta overheated abit..

it really got me in a upset mood tonight.

but atleast it runs.

 

mike

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Redline WaterWetter works incredibly. I have used it and tested it alot on my old Supercharged Toyota Corolla that was running a marginal Mazda 323 radiator (had to due to the IC).

 

The radiators on the Z cars are pretty large and you should not have to use WaterWetter.

 

Mike I would try running straight water first and then see how hot the car runs.

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mike you might want to try and bleed the cooling system again, I know that the L6 is not as prone to bubbles as some V8s or other engines, but it can happen.....

 

 

ps. Im leaving N.O. at around 6am hoping to make it up that way by 11-12ish depending on traffic.

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Just an idea, but maybe that huge intercooler is causing problems with overheating at idle? Do you have both the radiator and the intercooler sealed to the core support with foam weatherstripping so that the fan can actually suck through all of those fins when it comes on?

 

EDIT--looked at the pictures again and I now see that the IC is about 4" in front of the radiator. I'm not a turbo guy but my friends with turbos are pretty adamant that the IC and the radiator need to be sealed to the core support if they're going to be one in front of the other. Not sure if that is a hard and fast rule or not.

 

Also, even if your thermostat was new before you rebuilt the engine you should replace it. Seen too many "new" thermostats fail after being pulled out of a motor then put back in when the motor is fixed or rebuilt.

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ill replace the thermo today.

also i was running just straight water when it over heated.

im gonna have to flush my radiator today as it was pretty nasty inside it when i opened the cap.

im afraid to run waterwetter as i used it in my 300zx and that stuff was so thin it gave me leaks like crazy, and my radiator is pretty old and messed up as i had to work it abit to make the fmic work.

ill be getting my sheet metal brake together this week i hope so i can make a sealed area around the FMIC and Radiator, maybe that will help.

 

thanks guys.

 

mike

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Might be worth it to spring for a new radiator. With the money and time you have in the car I would think it would be a worthy investment. I know when I replaced mine the difference in cooling was tremendous, and it was just a stock replacement. If you don't have the cash for a new one you could simply have it re-cored.

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some new pics..

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dead battery and messed up bov.. so ill be getting a nice new battery and maybe a HKS SS bov to replace my Blitz Super Sound..

 

mike

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