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Breaking Stub Axles


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Hey guys I have a question. I was pulling a 1.67 60 footer after my stall convertor change. I have the CV upgrade but stock stub axles from my 240Z. At what 60 foot times do the stub axles have the potential to break? Im asking because I want to launch with a 100 shot in first but am worried itll break. With an extra 100 horses I should easily break into the 1.5s or so. Anyone know anything about this before I try it. Track here opens Feb 12th and Im ready to go. The 1.67 was also on a bent pedal so i assume maybe more after a little more practice...

 

CorZette

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I don't believe there is a finite # where the stub axles break. I would think that if there aren't any casting flaws, they should hold up pretty well.

That being said, on your launch, if you run a transbrake, or if you use a solid puck clutch, a lot of shock is transferred through the drivetrain and will find the weak link. If you foot brake and load up the drivetrain before launch, then you have a better chance of loading up. I haven't heard of too many stub axles breaking on a drag launch, but moreso auto crossing due to the different angular forces exerted on the stubs.

Just my .02

 

BTW, I was breaking 280zx outer CV housings and not the 240z stubs I was using when I launched the car.

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Roger that, Well I brake stall to 2500 then let go. It flashed to 3500 or so. I usually have no wheel spin. I am just afraid to NOS off the line at this point. Car should be good for high tens or very low elevens on a 100 shot at the right PSI. I guess Ill find out next month. Will post results later...

 

CZ

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Z-Gad is dead on. You cannot put a definitve number on this. When I ran CVs with 280 stubs, I broke a CV (the shaft itself, not the tripod) launching with DRs. The DS CV broke and the experts say it is usually the PS that has the breakage, so you never know. As a comparison, I was leaving a lot harder on a t-brake and netting 1.55s.

 

If it were me, I would not leave the line with the 100-shot. I would add a timer to delay the shot for .5 sec to eliminate any shock or wheelspin. If you are truly concerned, then make the swap or look into cryo treating the 240 stubs.

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I was thinking about having this done to the RX7 inner and outer ends until I discovered that they are made to a JIS spec that brings them close to 4130 chromoly. Although I did not follow through, I would have looked into a local company, 300below, http://www.300below.com. If I end up breaking a CV shaft then I will have the shafts done as they want $530 for a pair of chromoly CV shafts (just the shafts). CV shafts should run about $60/ea but doubt (hope? :D) I will break with the foot brake and DRs.

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Another thing to remember to is that what kills the stub axle is abuse over time... I'd plan to do one of three things: Upgrade to 280 Stubs, Upgrade to 280Stubs that are kryo'ed, or Upgrade to Ross' setup when they come out.

 

Those 240s won't last... I've been through the traps at over 100mph (1/8th mile track) with a broken axle, which also took out the rear brake... I ended up through a fence and in a gravel trap... It was NOT pretty! Good thing it wasn't my car!

 

Mike

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