Guest buds260z Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Can one of you guy's sell me a chep gas tank or fuel cell for chep for a1974 260z or a 240z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 What is wrong with yours? If it is rust and crud, I used POR15's gas tank repair kit and had great results. Take it to a radiator shop, boil it out, and then follow POR15s instructions. If you got holes, the radiator shop maybe able to fix them after boiling. Getting another 30+ year old used gas tank may not be the best solution to your problem. Boiling... $45.00 POR15 Gas tank repair kit... $55.00 Knowing you will never need to worry about rust or crud in the tank again... priceless. okay, I know that was cheesy POR15 here ->http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Pete Paraska did something similar where he used (I believe) Eastwood gas tank liner. After half a dozen strandings on the side of the road he finally realized where all the rubber clogging his fuel pump was coming from. Maybe his experience was different, but I would be careful with pour in gas tank liners. I assume you have checked the local salvage yards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddriver Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 That warning about the liner is a good one - it can cause problems if not used correctly. It works best on a new gas tank. Lining a tank that has rust in it is tricky buisness. You have to get all the rust out. Most lining kits come with a quart of phosphoric acid, and a pint of MEK to help clean the tank. That's enough for a motorcycle tank, but won't come near to treating a z. The thing is, rust is porus, and tends to collect dirt. The organic solvent (MEK, xylene,Toluene) or whatever you use to rinse the tank before you treat it will take out most of the dirt, but the rust will trap some. The phosphoric acid then is supposed to eat away the rust, but heres the catch - the phosphoric acid is weak and can't disolve rust that is covered by dirt. When I did my tank, I started by rinsing it thouroughly with zylene, then I took it to work. We have a aqueous pretreatment system that uses phosphoric acid. It's a little weaker than the stuff you get in the liner kit, but theres a lot more of it (10,000 gallon tank ) I let it soak completely submerged for about a week. If your doing it at home, you'll need at least 3 gallons of full strength phosphoric acid, and 13 gallons of water - to make enough dilute acid to fill your tank completely. I have no idea where you can get ahold of that much phosphoric acid. We buy ours directly from Freemont Chemical co, in 55 gal drums. (It would be much cheaper to buy a fuel cell and have it installed) Once all the rust is out then you can line it. (Having your tank professionally boiled out should do the trick - if you have a shop around that you trust. I tried to take mine to a shop before I took it to work, but two weeks later it was still sitting where I had dropped it off ) But, if any rust is left, that rust will trap moisture, the liner won't stick to that spot, and then you'll have the same problem - rubber in your fuel line. There is one more detail - the liner can clog the fuel intake and return hoses, so while it is drying, pipe compressed air into those lines (don't use a source of hot air - liner is highly flammable until dry) There. That's everything I know about lining a tank. I can't stress enough how important it is to remove ALL THE RUST. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 POR15 uses a cyramic like silver coating for the inside of the tank. 1. POR15 has some kind of gunk and dirt remover (Marine Clean). It says to put that and rocks in the tank and shake it real hard to knock loose all the crap and rust. I took it a step further and boiled it out before this step just to be sure. The radiator shop guy said he had to boil it three times to get all the crap out. He was amazed that it didn't leak. 2>After completely dry and drained (about a day) add the Metal ready and coat the entire inside of the tank and let it dry again. (about another day) 3>Add the sealant and wait another day. Four days including the day at the rad shop. When it was finished the inside of the tank was completely smooth and a shiney silver. It looked realy wild. I wonder if one could duplicate that look on the ouside of the car. Anyway I then coated the entire tank, top and bottom with rubberized undercoating. I was very happy with the results and feel confident I won't need to worry about rust and crud every again. I was so impressed I'm considering some of POR15's other products like their floor board repair kit. Notice how this guy has yet to say what is wrong with his tank and we've just gone on and on about rust treatments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buds260z Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I do not have a gas tank in the car so i can not seal it up or i would Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Doah. Now we all look like goomers! Good info anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Try Z-Barn. Not sure if they will ship a gas tank though: http://www.zbarn.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedRacer Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 It won't help Buds260Z since he doesn't have a tank but for someone that does a search here they might want to try Gas Tank Renu http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm They did a great job on my tank five years ago and it has held up very well. After they acid dip it in a hot tank they coat the inside and the outside of the tank with PVC plastic. So, you don't have to do it yourself and they provide a lifetime nationwide warranty as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 How you got a car and no gas tank? Somebody stole your gastank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I PM'd you as I have an early 71 gas tank. It is out of the car and in good shape. I do not know if I would be able to ship a used gas tank. I may have to have it hot tanked, etc first. Where are you located? Regards, mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanomon Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 I've got one from my 75' 280. If it will work for you, it's your's. I'm in Oceanside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griz Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 Try http://www.nissanparts.cc . I have been successful in finding just about every part I needed, all OEM. If you have an Illustrated Parts Catalog for your year vehicle, the Nissan part in the search field gets you the part you need. For instance, part 46243-E8800 gets you a front brake line. I don't have the part no for a fuel tank for a '74, but I have looked up the part for a '70. Hope that helps griz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Since this is in the 'Chevy V8' forum, I assume that you've done some sort of hybridization. Why not go with the 'plastic' tank that many have used? They can be had for $100-175 complete, and don't require a ton of fabbing to mount. The best sources for these are: LS1.com and LS1Tech.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 i just pulled the tank from my ls1 donor car-2001 trans am ram air. if you're interested, tank, pump, wiring, etc., best offer takes it! by the way, it seems to have a 1 way valve for the filler neck. any suggestions on how to remove the fuel from the tank? no drain plug... i thought i'd power up the pump to drive the fuel out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 ...i thought i'd power up the pump to drive the fuel out. I don't know if thats such a good idea.. it would work no doubt, but it might run the pump dry when the last bit of fuel is getting 'drained' and kill the pump.. just a thought.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 I agree with Datsunlover. Maybe get an inexpensive siphon that you attach to a drill motor and try that, or just turn tank up and swish it out of filler hole (?). Try posting it on the Chevy thread, someone should jump on it. If I didn't already have my set-up, I would! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Goto Walmart and get a $2 siphon bulb and tube. No power motors unless it is specifically set up for it. I wouldn't use the stock fuel pump if it is meant for fuel injection. Don't those things kick out something like 35 to 45 PSI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 thanks guys, totally forgot about the simple approach. will get one of the cheapo siphons today to empty the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBC_400 Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 where are you located, I have a gas tank and evap tank for a 74 260. scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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