Guest JAMIE T Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 I figured I'd start an oil pump thread here so we all can get a better understanding of the RB motors. Urged by the fact that I'm now paranoid about junking my motor at high rpm, and there is an HKS oil pump on ebay for ALOT of money. What fails on the stock oil pump? Why is the HKS one SOO expensive? What is differant about the Nismo pump than stock? What can be done to the OE pump to improve it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gexgexgexgex Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 how high of rpm are u talking about, b/c the stock redline for the rb25det is 7k or 8k, and the rb26dett is like 9k, how high do u wanna rev too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 2, 2005 Share Posted March 2, 2005 9K redline is for split seconds I would say for RB26. My cams are gonna make power past 8500 and will see that regularly. I want insurance against granading my motor. Under good advise from respected builders, I'm not going to rev the motor past 8500 without rebuilding the engine with billet rods and high quality forged pistons and sleeving the crank and upgrading the oil pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Q. What fails on the stock oil pump? A. The rotor splits and breaks into a hundred pieces. Q. Why is the HKS one SOO expensive? A. Because it's a high volume pump using an aftermarkes casting. Very low production and high quality. No stock parts. Q. What is differant about the Nismo pump than stock? A. Hardened rotor and scroll in a stock housing. Q. What can be done to the OE pump to improve it? A. Nothing The stock 26 red line is 7,000 and change. I've seen pumps go bad even when held under the stock red line in 32 motors. The problem is NOT THE PUMP. It's the crank. It has a minimal contact patch with the pump rotor. A Nismo pump is a bandaid. It will fail too. If you're that worried about it, get a big oil pressure warning light. When it comes on, kill the motor. I can't count the times I've had a pump failure on crank snout driven oil pumps at max RPM. In every case where the engine was shut down right away, there was no damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Thanks Matt, informative AS USUAL... So, the R33 crank'd engines don't have that problem? I'm definatly sleeving my crank. BTW, can that actually be done on and assembled engine or will I need to send the crank out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 I've never seen a failure with 33 crank through 9K rpm, but all my motors are drag motors and do not see sustained rpm's. I've never done the sleeve mod, so I don't know. If it's just pressed on I don't see it as a problem, but to keep it from spinning, it will have to be welded, keyed, or pinned. In this case, the crank would have to be removed. JUN does this mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjfawke Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Apparently some machining needs to be carried out for the JUN mod. There is also a lot of discussion about the screws in the oil pump coming loose, leading to fluctuating oil pressure followed suddenly by no oil pressure - some insist that this is a result of vibrations caused by the R32 oil pump drive, but I suspect there is more to the story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 I was discussing pinning it earlier with a friend at work. We figured it could be done without removing the crank from the engine. I'm going to have a few sleeves made and see what it'll take to hold it securely. I have one angine that is taken apart. So, I'm gonna use that crank to check it out. I'm gonna run my car with the stock engine for alittle while, but when the ported head goes on with the cams, I'm going tostep up the bottom end also. Oil pump bolts coming loose huh? That doesn't sound good. Are you speaking of the ones that hold the machined plate to the cast housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Apparently some machining needs to be carried out for the JUN mod. There is also a lot of discussion about the screws in the oil pump coming loose, leading to fluctuating oil pressure followed suddenly by no oil pressure - some insist that this is a result of vibrations caused by the R32 oil pump drive, but I suspect there is more to the story. I think the screws comming lose are from pumps that have been disassembled once (my theory). They are very tight from the factory (you have to use an impact driver to get them out) but people put them back in with max hand pressure on a #3 screw driver. I always use loc-tite and haven't had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjfawke Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 Nope - engines which have never been apart are turning up with loose screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 Why not use a dry sump system and pump on this engine then, if these pumps are a problem? Also, mabe instead of a big low oil pressure light, how about an ignition kill oil pressure switch? Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 I think the problem only exists on R32 motors. Which by chance are what we mostly get here in the states. As Matt posted earlier, The pump isn't the problem. Making the necessary modifications to the crank should fix any problems with it. Or swapping out the crank with the R33 crank will also fix the problem. I do think I remember Rick Wong(skyline240Z) saying he used an external pump after having one engine fail due the crank/pump problem of the R32 engine. I'm finally getting an R33 crank, but I'm also going to have some sleeves made-up for us who don't have the R33 crank. I'm going to run the engine I Got from Stony as is until I'm ready to build the engine, then I'm going to put the R33 crank in it, until then, I'm going to use a sleeved crank. I'm going to make them so the engine does not have to be completely disassembled for it to be installed. They will be pinned in place and I will provide instructions and probably rent out the drill jig with hardened drill bushings so it can be used on an assembled engine with a hand drill. Obviously, you'll need to pull the pan and oil pump to do it, but you won't need to take the crank out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 Thats a great idea Jamie. So you have something like this in mind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 That's not a sleeved crank is it? I haven't worked out the details yet. BTW, thanks for forwarding that PM. I'm going to get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 26, 2005 Share Posted March 26, 2005 So Jamie, did you end up grabbing that HKS oil pump? I just bitt the bullet and bought a Greddy/Trust oil pump. All this talk about motor going boom, made me re acess my reliability... I have everything else in/on this motor to make it a monster.... I might as well cover its a$$ with a good oil pump. It just had a new Nissan oil pump and water pump, but I went ahead and got the N1 water pump to make sure this sucker last a few hundred miles at least... It means I will have to pull the front back off the motor, to swap out these parts, but hey... thats what makes this so much fun, right...?? Since the motor has never been started, it shouldn't be to messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 27, 2005 Share Posted March 27, 2005 No, I didn't get the HKS pump. I saw the greddy one on ebay yesterday. I'm going to run the stock pump. I'm going to study it and see what can be improved on it. I think Matt nailed it though. It's probably not the pump that fails, rather it's the crank drive part. BTW, your car is coming along great. I can't wait to see it at SEZ next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdmanZ Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Hey Jamie i know this is old but have you made any progress on the crank collars. I just acquired an R32 Rb26 and I like the idea of not having to take the crank out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 What is the advantage of the JUN pump? I have a R33, and a HKS pump, so it is somewhat moot for me. It seems then that the main problem lies with the R32 motors,(cranks) - do the same issues rear their head with the later motors? Does sticking a large oil cooler in the system adversely affect the setup, i.e. too much demand on the system? I have an HKS oil cooler as well - but it seems way too big compared to what I am used to dealing with. Not sure wether to size down a little, or stick with what amounts to a very large oil cooler.. -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 A Nismo pump is a bandaid. It will fail too. Matt, I purchased the NISMO pump per your recommendation(from what I remember) for my street/strip application. Should I sell the pump and go with an HKS? I certainly do not want my pump to fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fentin_fury Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 A link to the JUN site for flow info vs. standard. http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinderblock-part/oilpump/index.html?en Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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