Guest rick458 Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Everyone says to replace the exhaust studs in the head with new ones from Nissan. What are the chances these will back out with our breaking? I really dont want to pull the head BTW the manifolds are off the long block, and the studs are easily accessable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 I would. The very last one next to the firewall has broken on every Z motor I've had (4). I currrently have ARP stainless studs on my L6 except for the very front under the water neck. I replaced all of the bolts with studs as well. The ARP's come in sets of 16 and the Z has 17. Figures. I would have bought the 300ZX studs from Nissan had I known the ARP studs were $120 for the set... But all I had was a part number and SUmmit had no listing, so they were drop shipped from ARP price unknown! But they sure look cool with their stainless washers and 12 point nuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Craig Bordon over at zcarcreations.com has a nice stainless stud kit for $40. Just bought a set for my car, so far they seem to be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredtam Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Thanks for adding to my cost. I just pulled my head today and had no idea I should replace them. Ignorance is bliss and cheaper at least initially. Zcarcreations.com's price list doesn't seem to work and I don't see a stud set listed seperately so I guess I may as well get their engine set from Courtesy unless anyone has had bad experiences with these bolt sets. Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Peter Allnet (Pallnet) also has a nice intake and exhaust stud kit for sale for a great price.. They are 10.8 grade. I am running them on my Z and work great.. You can reach him at Pallnet@hotmail.com Here is a link to his site.. http://groups.msn.com/pallnet/studandboltkits.msnw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Thanks for adding to my cost. I just pulled my head today and had no idea I should replace them. Ignorance is bliss and cheaper at least initially. Zcarcreations.com's price list doesn't seem to work and I don't see a stud set listed seperately so I guess I may as well get their engine set from Courtesy unless anyone has had bad experiences with these bolt sets. Anyone? You might want to try emailing Craig. Last time we corresponded he mentioned Ebay's prices were getting out of hand and was going to find other means. I did by his entire engine bolt set and am happy with it. The other set that wigenOut-S30 posted looks good too, but they don't appear to be stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Please do yourself a favor and replace the studs. I was NOT smart enough to do it will I was putting my header on a while back and I paid the price of doing it twice............. I wish someone had warned me:icon8: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 I just received a new set for the L24 from Motorsport... They are bagged from nissan and contain a whole laundry list of various lengths and part numbers combined into one set. There are at least 3 different length studs and a few bolts along with all the nuts and washers. It was pretty expensive as I recall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 I went with the pallnet kit and had absolutely no problems. I believe it was 35 dollars, and something like 5 for shipping BTW I had a hell of a time getting the original studs off the old engine. If you read more about the z's, particularly the exhaust manifold, you will read somewhere that the exhaust manifold tends to bow over time because of the heat. The bowing pulls the first and last bolt on the exhaust manifold and that is why you get everyone complaining about not being able to get 'em off or breaking off a stud in there. -Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 I hosed my studs down with PB Blast early this morning and will attemp to Double nut them off tonight. I will go with Pallnet stud/bolt set as well I have the Exhaust Manifold here (thanks Kienoze), the Carb coming (thanks Dan), and will have the rest of the stuff in 3 weeks (providing AZC ships timely) I can hear it running now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 I don't even think about touching the old studs until I've heated them good with the acetylene torch. They then come out like butter. I know some of you don't have access to one, but I'm not sure how well a propane torch or MAP gas would work. Also, I've never had any problems with AZC's timelyness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Mission accomplished I had hosed them down with PB Blast 4 different times and Double Nutted them off this morning and cleaned up the gasket area. I'm awaiting Pallnets Stud and Bolt kit, and the IN/EX gasket. on the studs you Neversieze them, and just run them in finger tight, then torque the nuts right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Mission accomplished I had hosed them down with PB Blast 4 different timesand Double Nutted them off this morning and cleaned up the gasket area. I'm awaiting Pallnets Stud and Bolt kit' date=' and the IN/EX gasket. on the studs you Neversieze them, and just run them in finger tight, then torque the nuts right?[/quote'] This would be correct. Just a note regarding Neversieze.....if you have access to the non-metalic type neversieze (usually food or nuclear grade), us it. Remember that the head is aluminum and will be less reactive using the non-metalic neversieze. Probably overkill for most people! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 dont know where I could find that BUT I do have access to some High Nickle high temp Neversieze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Rich, its not such a big deal on autos, as opposed to a boat that sits in saltwater all day long. Just thought I'd bring it up as my suggestion will prevent the likelyhood of galvanic corrosion. You should be OK using what you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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