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Chevy guys.... clutch recommendations


WickedWild

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I’ve spent half the day searching and reading for clutch recommendations. And so far I have not gotten a good idea for what to use. I’ve read a lot for applications on the L28 and they seem to like the Act and Centerforce clutches. I’m running a 305 out of an ’85 Camaro with a matching T5 and a light weight flywheel. I put a new oem replacement clutch in broke it in proper, but it is slipping with the extra hp. The 305 is beefed up and I thought an oem clutch would still hold up sense the 280z is lighter than the Camaro, I was wrong. I have not been able to dyno it because of the slipping clutch so I’m not sure what kind of numbers I’m putting down, but it should not be too outrageous, it’s only a 305. But I am planning on adding a 150 shot latter. So what are you running with how much power?

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I have a T-56 with a hays aluminum flywheel. I'm putting out 410hp at the wheels and I'm using a Centerforce dual friction. It works very well so far. I put about 2000 miles on it before I had to tear down my engine (burned a few pistons!) and the flywheels looks great!

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I've run a Centerforce 1 between a '96 4.3 V6 and NV4500 in my modified Land Rover for 5 years now. That's not much horsepower (200hp/250tq) but it sees A LOT of ABUSE offroad and has never slipped. I've gotta give a thumbs up to Centerforce.

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I, too, had a CF Dual Friction Clutch for my T-56, which I never had any problems with, except for a lot of clutch chatter. I switched over to a Stage III Spec Clutch, which also works great, without the chatter, but it works too damn well. With the clutch being a 6-puck, I have to rev the engine up to about 2,000 rpms and very lightly feather it out on take-offs. It's not near as streetable as the CF Dual Friction. I haven't heard any problems with the Centerforce clutches come from hybriders, but people who've put them in F-bodies have nothing good to say about them. Anyways, good luck...

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Well now your going to hear about a hybrider's experience with the CF DF......holds great if you can stand the clutch chatter. I used it with my LT1/T56 combo, I was not impressed with it since it started to chatter like crazy after only 500 miles! I am now going to use a SPEC stage 3 with a Fidanza alluminum flywheel. I dont know how Im going to like the set up but I will be a lot happier if its quite!

 

 

Guy

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I'm for the center force d/f.. I had a Jeep J10 p/u a few years ago, 6" of lift, 33" tires, mild 360 and I was HARD on that thing. One time I actually got it a few feet off the ground... Got stuck in the same spot 3 times, so I backed up about 30 feet and gave er' hell.. Droped the clutch at about 3000 rpm and the thing just launched! :twisted: In 2 wheel, I could launch the same and SPIN the rear tires.. (Ever heard 33x12.5's spin? Really cool sound..) Probly similar power, maybe a little more torque than your 305.. although the truck was so loud, I didn't notice any noises from the clutch..

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I am in the el cheapo bracket...that stock clutch in a Z should be just fine for a long time if not continually abused....perhaps the clutch is not fully engaging due to linkage adjustment....I have stock 305 clutch/flywheel on LT1 5.7 and it is fine John

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I'm 70% sure that the clutch is installed right, I didn't change much when I upgraded the 305. But I did go with a thinner light weight flywheel... It lanches great and I don't have any problems with it untill I hit 4500 rpm in 3rd and 4th, and then it just breaks free. It's a really light pedal and I think the springs are too soft.

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Check and make sure you have some free travel in the throw out bearing/fork/slave cylinder setup when the clutch is released. If there's free travel, you're probably ready for a new clutch. If you don't have any free travel, the TOB putting pressure on the pressure plate fingers can cause exactly the symptoms you describe, and a new clutch won't help any, you'll just burn up the new one and be back where you are now.

 

John

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Check and make sure you have some free travel in the throw out bearing/fork/slave cylinder setup when the clutch is released. If there's free travel' date=' you're probably ready for a new clutch. If you don't have any free travel, the TOB putting pressure on the pressure plate fingers can cause exactly the symptoms you describe, and a new clutch won't help any, you'll just burn up the new one and be back where you are now.

 

John[/quote']

How should I be able to tell if the throw out bearing is putting pressure on the pressure plate fingers?

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Does the fork appear to have any slack in it or is it tight? i.e., can you wiggle it forward and backward with your hand? Are their any adjustments on the slave cylinder or mount?

 

John

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  • 7 months later...

I know it's been a while since anyone posted here, but what the hell! What do you think about the Weber Performance Street Twin from Roadcraft Repower in UK for a 383 CID with 460 BHP?

http://www.roadcraftuk.co.uk/index.asp?productID=WEB640037&display=main&Col_Category=Transmission+%26+Drivetrain&Col_SubCategory=Clutch+Components&Col_SubSubCategory=Street+Twin

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