Guest badintentionz Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 I'm rebuilding my L28E to hopefully run 12's. I got a turbo motor which I will be using parts from since I want to save the 60,000 miles on the block and head. I'm going to put a L28D crank in it but I want to keep a low compression between 8-9 :1. How should I set up the pistons and rods? Next I will be having a custom Intake and Exhaust manifold fabricated. Should I get the intake and exhaust holes bored? If so how much are the able to be bored? And how does $2000 sound for the both of those together? Then I will have them install a universal intercooler (which I want to be very efficient) and fabricate the piping. Any ideas on what I should look for? Then they will be installing an ECU for me which will run about $3000 installed. They are going to re wire everything. Then it will be $150/hour to tune it. I'm going to get an angle job on my P90 head. I've never sent a head to get machined, so can someone fill me in on how this works and what I should ask for? As for the turbo I was going to use a GT40 turbocharger from Arizonazcar.com but they got two different A/R. Which one should I use? Then I will run a 3" exhaust from the turbo with a test pipe in case of emissions. I want to go no muffler but I'm a little weary about emissions. How should I set this up? In the end I hope to obtain a 3.1L turbocharged reliable engine for my 280ZX. I'm going to hook this up to a 5-speed from my '79 and then to a 3.90 differential. If you guys take the time to read this, thanks and leave any advice or comments about what I'm doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oleh Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 I'm rebuilding my L28E to hopefully run 12's. I got a turbo motor which I will be using parts from since I want to save the 60,000 miles on the block and head. I'm going to put a L28D crank in it but I want to keep a low compression between 8-9 :1. How should I set up the pistons and rods? The pistons, depends on your bore, can be .20 / .40 overbore, and must be forged, the rods, aswell must be forged. So if you're going all motor, you must bump the compression to atleast a 10:1, but for a turbo that seems fine. Next I will be having a custom Intake and Exhaust manifold fabricated. Should I get the intake and exhaust holes bored? If so how much are the able to be bored? And how does $2000 sound for the both of those together? I was quoted 1300 for a twin turbo header, so that seems reasonable. What do you mean bored ? Do you mean port matched, if so then yeah. Then I will have them install a universal intercooler (which I want to be very efficient) and fabricate the piping. Any ideas on what I should look for? Read this : http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm#ENGINE%20DESTRUCTION%20%20!%20!%20!%20! Then they will be installing an ECU for me which will run about $3000 installed. They are going to re wire everything. Then it will be $150/hour to tune it. What kind of ECU, that seems way to much, unless you'll be running a standalone like a AEM AMS, or TEC3 but still thats alot. I'm going to get an angle job on my P90 head. I've never sent a head to get machined, so can someone fill me in on how this works and what I should ask for? Read this:http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm As for the turbo I was going to use a GT40 turbocharger from Arizonazcar.com but they got two different A/R. Which one should I use? I will be running this turbo as well. Read this:http://www.forcedinductions.com/help.htm Then I will run a 3" exhaust from the turbo with a test pipe in case of emissions. I want to go no muffler but I'm a little weary about emissions. How should I set this up? To pass, you will need to run a cat and maybe even C116. In the end I hope to obtain a 3.1L turbocharged reliable engine for my 280ZX. I'm going to hook this up to a 5-speed from my '79 and then to a 3.90 differential. If you guys take the time to read this, thanks and leave any advice or comments about what I'm doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b__sosick Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 please please please edit that post. I can't tell what's a quote and what is your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oleh Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 ^happy ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest badintentionz Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 How much would I have to bore to get to 3.0L and keep a decent compression ratio? After reading some stuff about the LD28 turbocharged, I don't think I would want to go down that road. I am going standalone on the ECU but are those ECU's you mentioned going to cost me about the same (re-wiring). Are there any that can use stock wiring? And what I forgot to ask earlier, where can I get a cam other than MSA? Any recomendations on the specs I should be looking for? I don't fully understand the cam specs yet after reading a bunch of explanations. Once again Thanks for everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oleh Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 compression: http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/comp_ratio/comp_ratio.htm A AEM AMS costs about 1700 for a KA(idk about the L28) and should be around no more than 500 to install. I recommend a standalone if you're serious, but you can try a piggyback, like a Emanage, or a Megasquirt. I believe Arizona Z sells cams, and they can regrind to any spec you want. For the cam it depends on what you want, like if the car is going to be streetable, you need a mild cam, so not to crazy on the lift/duration, so your idle isnt like 2K, most cams will eliminate low end torque, so for streetablility, idk if you want a large cam. What is the car going to be used for ? daily driving, auto x, etc ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest badintentionz Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 I want this car to be a daily driver that will also show impressive or decent numbers in the 1/4 mile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 but I want to keep a low compression between 8-9 :1 That will make it much more difficult to reach your goal of 12s in the 1/4. A number of folks run 10:1 on pump gas with no detonation problems and if you're running a well mapped EMS then 10.5 or 11:1 is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Isn't he thinking turbo? Would make sense with the 8:1 compression. Badintentionz, your post seems confused to me. I suggest you read up on these engines. Maybe buy the How to Modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine book, or do some really thorough searching on this site. Read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860 and all of the other stickies in the turbo forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest badintentionz Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 So if I set up everything right I should be able to run 10:1 compression with a turbocharger? Could you explain more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oleh Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 ^ you have alot of searching to do. And no, unless you're running race gas, with that compression on pump gas its impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 So if I set up everything right I should be able to run 10:1 compression with a turbocharger? Could you explain more. No, I was mistaken. I thought you were building a NA engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest badintentionz Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Alright, I've done my research and I got a couple questions left that I did not find the answer to. When uping my motor to 3.0L, should I bore the cylinders or shave the head? My dad would also like to know that. And what driveshafts will I be able to use after swapping my '79 5-Speed in with the 3.90 rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Alright' date=' I've done my research and I got a couple questions left that I did not find the answer to. When uping my motor to 3.0L, should I bore the cylinders or shave the head? My dad would also like to know that. And what driveshafts will I be able to use after swapping my '79 5-Speed in with the 3.90 rear?[/quote'] Don't take any material off the block or the head unless to smooth the surface, you don't want to increase the compression for a turbo engine. And I question why you are going to all this trouble to run 12s? A factory engine and turbo will run 12s. And I would not run a 3.90 rear, 1st gear will be useless, and you will have to shift to 5th to end the 1/4. Go with a 3.54, or lower if you can swing it, but a 3.36 is extremely rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Alright' date=' I've done my research and I got a couple questions left that I did not find the answer to. When uping my motor to 3.0L, should I bore the cylinders or shave the head? My dad would also like to know that. And what driveshafts will I be able to use after swapping my '79 5-Speed in with the 3.90 rear?[/quote'] Glad to hear you searched. You still seem confused on the engine though... Shaving the head has nothing to do with increasing the size of the motor, but it would increase the compression. That would make it hard to run higher boost levels, and for more power the easiest thing to do on a turbo is turn up the boost. For your stated goal of 12's you don't need a 3 liter. Most people go 3.1 liter with a diesel crank and then they bore the block .080 IIRC and run 240SX pistons. Another search should get you all the specifics on what to do on the stroker and why, but bottom line is that you're going to get about 10% increase in power with a stroker because you'll get a 10% increase in displacement. Since you only need about 300 whp for a 2800 lb car to get 110 mph in the 1/4, and that should put you in the 12's, I think a 3L is a waste of money. 300 whp is easily attainable with the L28ET. From what I've read on this site, you don't really need to do anything to the internals for that kind of hp. Any Z driveshaft should fit your 79 5 speed. You would want to avoid a 70 or 71 shaft as they were a bit shorter than the rest. ZX driveshaft does not fit IIRC. EDIT--I thought you were building a Z. I think now you're talking ZX. So any ZX non turbo driveshaft should fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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