Jump to content
HybridZ
Guest ZX6R1033

Z32 300ZX SR20DET Engine Mount question

Recommended Posts

If you didn't upgrade your turbo i can see why you are somewhat dissapointed. You need a GT35 at 20 psi for 400 WHP @ 7500 rpm all day on stock engine. Thats about 300 tq somewhere between 4000 and 5000 rpm. Please don't quote me on this I am just remembering this from dyno posts of the top of my head. This is nothing new as it has been well documented in many forums. My point is, at that power level and at only 2750 lb you are looking at 6.87 HP per 1 lb. Now I know there are many 300ZXTT running at 500 WHP which at 3500 lb (at least after the mods) will be at 7 HP per lb. The avantage is in the overall weight. Less weight= more lateral traction, better braking, longer lasting tires and brakes, etc. At the quater mile track; I am not sure wich one will be faster, but at the race track no doubt Z32-SR20DET would have a major advantage. I just don't know under what class it would race...:confused:

Any way, I am looking to finally build a track car and cant get this idea out of my head. Please keep the comments comming.:)

 

Yea I actually was looking into the gt35r but with everything in consideration, I just enjoyed the LT1 swap more. When I had the LT1 in the car it weighed in at 2850 and I plan on making more of a drag car this time. I also don't want to post times but since I have a time slip and I will scan it in to verify. The 60foot was 1.60, 1/8 was 7.41, and 1/4 was 11.557@ 122.10. It hooked quite nicely! I also had a problem with the opti spark at the time. I had about a 140 shot of nitrous. Well not to babble but you cant make 600 to the tires on a stock sr plus the torque is crazy fun! Now considering I was only making aroud 400-440 to the tires with the v8 could you imagine 550 - 600 or even more after a build and turbocharged of course with a t56 behind it. !!!skeet skeet skeet!!!! I did not realize how much I missed it until I started posting on this board. Yea I understand what you are saying though.. I like the sr don't get me wrong it is fun alot of fun I'm just a torque junky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Here are some pictures! Keep in mind that this is a work in progress. I have been cleaning it up since these pictures. I recently put it on a dyno and made 250 whp and 260 tq @ 12.5 psi.

 

That's all good and dandy for a 4 banger... Your VG30DE makes just as much HP no?

 

But something about 2 less cylinders, one less turbo, and less torque/power doesn't make a good togue monster for the other guy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That's all good and dandy for a 4 banger... Your VG30DE makes just as much HP no?

 

But something about 2 less cylinders, one less turbo, and less torque/power doesn't make a good togue monster for the other guy.

 

the vg makes about 175 - 180 to the tires. thats an n/a and the engine is heavy as ♥♥♥♥ compared to the sr. But yes you are right that is why I am taking the sr out and putting the lt1 back in....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't imagine the LT being much -if any- lighter than the VG30DETT, but I haven't had both on a scale so it's not like I can say.

 

But really DTS, how much do you think your car weighed stock? There's no way you lost 700 pounds on a motor swap correct? This is the point i'm trying to get across to lexshimmy. The motor - though light - won't make the total difference and as johnc and others have proven there's a lot you can do to get the weight distribution you want AND weight distribution isn't the end all be all of cornering speed.

 

To me the only reason the swap DOES make some sense is that both of you are starting with VG30DE motors. The NA motor doesn't have much NA potential so you're best off swapping the motor out anyways, so why not go with a turbo 4 if it meets your power goals?

 

I still can't see it being a true "touge monster" though. Fun on mountain roads? Sure. Able to beat cars like the amuse S2k? Not likely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest ivanqz
One Week Guys And It Will Be Complete! I Cant Wait!!!!!!!

 

Seriously lexshimmy, give me a call I pmed you my number. I really want to see how you went about doing this. I am looking to build a road race car within the next year and I am stuck on this idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I can't imagine the LT being much -if any- lighter than the VG30DETT, but I haven't had both on a scale so it's not like I can say.

 

But really DTS, how much do you think your car weighed stock? There's no way you lost 700 pounds on a motor swap correct? This is the point i'm trying to get across to lexshimmy. The motor - though light - won't make the total difference and as johnc and others have proven there's a lot you can do to get the weight distribution you want AND weight distribution isn't the end all be all of cornering speed.

 

To me the only reason the swap DOES make some sense is that both of you are starting with VG30DE motors. The NA motor doesn't have much NA potential so you're best off swapping the motor out anyways, so why not go with a turbo 4 if it meets your power goals?

 

I still can't see it being a true "touge monster" though. Fun on mountain roads? Sure. Able to beat cars like the amuse S2k? Not likely.

 

Dunno never weighed it with the vg30de. There is no way I lost 700 pounds with the swap. I do know that the vg is a very heavy engine. When I first had the LT1 in the car the front end actually sat up a little higher than stock. I must have a very light z comparitively. Guess the 91 slick top is just really light. I will corner weigh the car when I finish the lt1 swap and take pictures of the scale so you guys don't think I'm full of bs. I will say the short block is one heavy mofo. A freind and I tried to lift an assymbled short block out of the bed of my truck and nearly broke our backs. I will assure you it is over 500lbs fully dressed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest ivanqz
Dunno never weighed it with the vg30de. There is no way I lost 700 pounds with the swap. I do know that the vg is a very heavy engine. When I first had the LT1 in the car the front end actually sat up a little higher than stock. I must have a very light z comparitively. Guess the 91 slick top is just really light. I will corner weigh the car when I finish the lt1 swap and take pictures of the scale so you guys don't think I'm full of bs. I will say the short block is one heavy mofo. A freind and I tried to lift an assymbled short block out of the bed of my truck and nearly broke our backs. I will assure you it is over 500lbs fully dressed.

 

Is ther any way you could corner weight the car the way it is now with the SR20 in it? Pleeeeeeeeeeease........Really, I have to know for sure if this weight is possible. iI also heard from other people that this swap is common in Japan. Z32 N/A no T-tops + SR20DET.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, the slick top alone will gain you at least 20-70 pounds or do (depending on how much reinforcement goes into the window system). Plus it's more rigid. I'd looked for quite some time for a slick top 280ZX when I bought my second, but just couldn't find one soon enough.

 

Then there's the spare, and jack. That's quite a bit of weight as well.

 

If I had to guess, I'd say that in order for you to be at the weight you're at (not calling BS at all man, I'm just trying to figure out either were the weight went or where in the world you started) I'd guess you started around 3200. Knock it down to 3000 by pulling all unnecessary weight out, then knock it down to 2850 for the motor swap. I guess that KINDA makes sense, but I've love to weigh all the pieces.

 

It seems to me the slick top is one light chassis compared to the rest of the Z32's, and the slick tops aren't necessarily everywhere, or easy to come by.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest ivanqz

dts300z Did you have to cut in to the firewall at all? Also, did you have enough clearence to run the stck fan? or did you have to get electric fans.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Depending on the OP's 300ZX year, a LT1 could be smog legal in CA. . . just have to do the swap right.

 

Unless he can register in a non-smog county . . .

 

If your address is above 3000ft sea level in California there is no smog restrictions. But you don't happen to have a cabin in Mammoth or Big Bear do you? Hehe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If your address is above 3000ft sea level in California there is no smog restrictions. But you don't happen to have a cabin in Mammoth or Big Bear do you? Hehe.

You serious???? I live at ~3500 ft!!!

 

Maybe there is an upside to living on the side of a mountain range!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You serious???? I live at ~3500 ft!!!

 

Maybe there is an upside to living on the side of a mountain range!!

 

It might be 4000 feet. But you and I have some research to do on http://www.dmv.ca.gov/

 

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc27153_5.htm

Looks like it can be 4000 feet sukka!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Is ther any way you could corner weight the car the way it is now with the SR20 in it? Pleeeeeeeeeeease........Really, I have to know for sure if this weight is possible. iI also heard from other people that this swap is common in Japan. Z32 N/A no T-tops + SR20DET.

I wish it was still running and I would. I pulled the engine last night and did not see this post until now. I was talking with a good friend of mine earlier whom corner scaled the car with the sr in it and he seemed to remember it was close to a 45% rear and 55% front weight distribution. It was 2750lbs no driver and a half tank...etc.. Like I said though I will weigh the car with the lt1 swap and take pictures so you guys can see. Although it might be even lighter considering I won't have all the a/c and heat etc... on the car. But I can't see it being lighter than 2750 like it was with the sr. Maybe 2800 or so.. Trust me the weight is possible with a SLICK TOP! Sorry have to stress the slick top part.. If you put some time into weight loss on the car and got rid of all the sound deadening material and such I could foresee another 50lbs or so lighter, if it is that important to you...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dts300z Did you have to cut in to the firewall at all? Also, did you have enough clearence to run the stck fan? or did you have to get electric fans.

 

I ran electric fans! I did not even try to run the stock one, but there is decent clearence, so you might be able too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yea, the slick top alone will gain you at least 20-70 pounds or do (depending on how much reinforcement goes into the window system). Plus it's more rigid. I'd looked for quite some time for a slick top 280ZX when I bought my second, but just couldn't find one soon enough.

 

Then there's the spare, and jack. That's quite a bit of weight as well.

 

If I had to guess, I'd say that in order for you to be at the weight you're at (not calling BS at all man, I'm just trying to figure out either were the weight went or where in the world you started) I'd guess you started around 3200. Knock it down to 3000 by pulling all unnecessary weight out, then knock it down to 2850 for the motor swap. I guess that KINDA makes sense, but I've love to weigh all the pieces.

 

It seems to me the slick top is one light chassis compared to the rest of the Z32's, and the slick tops aren't necessarily everywhere, or easy to come by.

 

Yall probably need to find a stock slick top and weigh it. I promiss you that the vg30 is alot heavier than people think!!! and you can quote me on that!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still wondering how light a gutted slick top 280ZX would weight... With another motor that car should have just as much track potential as some of the S30's on this board (i'd imagine it's possibly to get caged track car under 2800 if the motor is light enough)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought about making a few mount kits and do like a subframe exchange if anyone was interested! Maybe a complete hardware kit that would include motor mounts that would work with the factory sr mounts, tranny mount, drive shaft, possibly a reworked shifter. I'm not sure there will be enough demand for mass production but for those interested I would consider making a jig and selling a few sets. Just a thought!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to make the jigs this weekend! I'll put together a kit and pricing and as soon as I figure it out I'll post it up along with pictures. Everthing will be waterjet cut and tig welded for those interested. The package will also include a steel driveshaft, and other hardware needed for install. All whom want to be ginny pigs let me know and I'll cut a group deal for the first 5-10 kits if that many even sell...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest ivanqz
I'm going to make the jigs this weekend! I'll put together a kit and pricing and as soon as I figure it out I'll post it up along with pictures. Everthing will be waterjet cut and tig welded for those interested. The package will also include a steel driveshaft, and other hardware needed for install. All whom want to be ginny pigs let me know and I'll cut a group deal for the first 5-10 kits if that many even sell...

 

Sign me up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a link to pics of my car.

I have been building it for over a year now.

I travel for a living so i only have about 3-4 days a month to work on her.

I am doing a complete overhaul to the body and and building the Car for Drag. NHRA Sport RWD. I expect over 800HP and should see low 9's with the Z32 5speed.

Swap is already done, just waiting on body work to be completed.

 

http://www.drag240sx.com/plug-e-gallery-f-55.html

 

If you all are wondering why I went the SR route i will be more than happy to explain. But with me racing only 1 specific class, we have to stick to same manufacturer. So with all my other Nissan options I would be happy to say why i went the SR route...

 

Good luck to anyone else trying the swap..

It was very easy for me and i would recommend it to anyone else.

 

Danny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...