Guest ON3GO Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 I took out the dash of my 77 280z a few days ago. took all the a/c and heat crap out, took all the wires i dont need. i dont need heat in a Z thats for sure. never had a compressor on the car anyways but i took out all the rest of the a/c crap.. how much weight is saved by taken all that out? anybody ever weigh it all? also i doubt it but does any of that crap like the heater core and etc add any structure to the dash? so far i had the car down to 2580lbs with heavier tires, heavier engine parts that were replaced with lighter ones, heavier seats then what i have now, full interior, alot more wiring then what i have now, full a/c and heat, and some tools in the back. didnt have bumpers or bumper supports but i did have a lighter fmic setup. but now i have a 12 gallon fuel cell .. hope to get this car around 2400lbs.. which is damn good for a 77 280z . mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 A/C and heat parts are probably ~40lbs. Thats condenser, evap, box, controls, valves, lines, wiring, and water/freon weight... then if you throw the compressor in there its probably an additional ~10lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 Mike.. weigh yourself on the bathroom scales, put all that crap in a back strapped to you and re-weigh yourself and do the math.. With condensor about 70 pounds. The condensor will hit close to 20# and the water in the heater core accounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 About 50# is a good round guess... Going away from stock bumpers and pumper struts will net you quite a bit of savings as well... One of the guys who was at the last cookout I hosted just weighed his 77 280Z w/ 280ZX turbo swap and he found his car to be a tad bit over 2900#... Hard to get these cars down in weight and still stay "street" friendly! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 well mine was 2580 with a half of tank of gas, L28ET sway, fmic, full exhaust, full interior just with RX7 seats, full a/c system, some tools in the back, no bumpers or supports. i think the compressior was off the car though... ya it was... im sure i saved alot of weight now from all the stuff i replaced and took off. just hope i hit my number i wanted to hit. going to the track the 2nd of october so ill see what she will run and weigh. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 What number arte you shooting for? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 is it a pure street car or weekend warrior? If its a weekend warrior have you considered limiting your interior amenities? some of the combined weights of the interior are kind of staggering...I know that all the rear interiors parts, carpet, and insulation weighed about 18lbs in my old 75 Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 I tore my A/C and heater out to replace the coils and re-do the foam, but left the blower in. I just weighed the pcs. I weighed in at 167.5, holding the pcs I weighed 191. So it looks like about 24 lbs or so. I would imagine with the blower and liquid in the coil it might approach 40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 2400lbs is my goal... the car isnt a daily driver, but i dont want a gutted up race car.. its a very clean and detailed car so i dont want it to look unfinished on the inside. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 well fiberglass is you next step..... but 2400lbs seems do-able with some inginuity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 well fiberglass is you next step..... but 2400lbs seems do-able with some inginuity! some ppl say it isnt.. as its the heavier of the S30 cars.. the 77-78 cars. i was amazied i got it to 2580 with little work.. i guess ill see what she will be now. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumo Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 2400lbs is my goal...the car isnt a daily driver' date=' but i dont want a gutted up race car.. its a very clean and detailed car so i dont want it to look unfinished on the inside. mike[/quote'] How about changing all the glass except the windshield for plexi or Lexan? Would that be enough of a significant weight change? You could get away with a slight curve when installing on the hatch and quarter windows, i dunno about the windows itself though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 i cracked the winshields in the boat i had and had to build some new pieces out of lexan.got a sheet from a place in the midwest that sells real ge lexan.it had a nice dark tint to it.it would make a good z hatch glass.you could cut it your self.probably save 40 or 50 lbs.you have to use special polish to take care of it though.nice place to lose weight-in something mounted up high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 would love to do lexan windows but i dont have the cash or the time do to so on this car yet. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 81na ZX Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 How often do you plan on taking it out? You could go with plex instead of Lexan, but 1) Its not legal (but IIRC lexan usually isnt either, depending on the state), 2) plex scratches much easier, so you'll have to replace it more often. BUT, lets say you replace it 1x a year, at ~$30 for the rear 3 pieces. Compare that to teh ~200+ for lexan. If you drive it more often, like say every weekend, and don't store it in a garage, you'd be swapping out plex more often and negating some of the savings. Plus, you can get plex anywhere (Lowe's/HD) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-REX Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 Lay off the dollar menu at McD's... I've missed you guys here at the 'Brid!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 there was a rather lengthy weight thread about a year ago and I recal being quite impressed at how light some of the 280's had gotten, I'm sure it would take forever to find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 How often do you plan on taking it out? You could go with plex instead of Lexan' date=' but 1) Its not legal (but IIRC lexan usually isnt either, depending on the state), 2) plex scratches much easier, so you'll have to replace it more often. BUT, lets say you replace it 1x a year, at ~$30 for the rear 3 pieces. Compare that to teh ~200+ for lexan. If you drive it more often, like say every weekend, and don't store it in a garage, you'd be swapping out plex more often and negating some of the savings. Plus, you can get plex anywhere (Lowe's/HD)[/quote'] You can get polycarbonate (Lexan) at Lowes and HD too. Plexiglas is IME very hard to cut and likes to crack if bent. Plexiglas is also a lot more scratch resistant than Lexan IME. I've seen Lexan scratch from being gently wiped with a paper towel. I don't think material is really an issue legally unless you're talking about the windshield. Maybe your $200 is regarding scratch resistant Lexan. I know that is quite a bit more expensive. Acrylic or Lexan seems to be the way to go. I think $30 is a little shy of what it would take if you were buying this stuff at HD too. I'd expect more like $50-75. Try buying a larger piece from a glass shop or an industrial supply house and you might find better prices. As to your goal Mike I think a fiberglass hood and hatch with Lexan rear window would do a lot for you. That drops something like 60 lbs, and as Randy said it's all up high which is nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 well ill be getting a carbon fiber hood from vinny and prob a hatch from johnc when the money is there. so in due time.. but for now i gotta rip out what i dont need lol. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted September 21, 2005 Share Posted September 21, 2005 lets have a look at your doors when the panels are still off and see if we can't remove some brace material... on a chevelle cam and i had a hand in we looked at the door, was comprised of alot of flat steel bar sections making up the inner webbing, so take a hole saw or grinder to it and you can start removing weight little by little that way too, and as long as you cut in a load concious manner, it will not sacrafice chassis strength. This same theory can be applied to any other normally covered surface that isn't a load bearing area and has excess material that can be removed or hollowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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