rear control arm help needed

[The Rototiller]

i need some advice on how to get the bushing out where the spindle pin connects to the control arm. i am replacing it with a urethane bushing. please help!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

[johnc]

1. Remove the spindle pin and separate the control arm from the strut.

2. Burn the rubber bushing out using a torch.

3. Find a throw-away deep well socket that just fits the metal bushing sleeve that's left in the control arm.

4. Find another throw-away deep-well socket that just fits the outer tube of the control arm that holds the bushing.

5. Press the sleeve out of the control arm using a 20 ton press.

[fastzcars]

Now this doesn't mean that this is the right way, but I drilled out the rubber to release the inner steel sleeve. Then I had room to use a sawzaw and VERY CAREFULLY and slowly cut the outer sleeve just enough at 2 place's ,180 degrees from each other so basicly I had 2 half shells of the bushings, Then I got a punch and hammered the shells halves out. I just nicked the a-arms but the bushings stay stationary in the a-arm and pivots aroubd the new inner steel sleeve that you get with the new bushing kit. It makes it much easier if you have a bench vise to hold the a-arm while you cut the bushing. Like I said my method is not the only way, but it was the easiest way I could think of the do this without going to a machine shop to press them out.

[JMortensen]

Yep, I cut my shells out too. Do it on the end where the control arm is so that if you do cut past the shell a bit it doesn't weaken the arm.

 

I used a sawzall until it was close, then used a hacksaw the rest of the way.

[The Rototiller]

i am having trouble removing the spindle pin. i have removed the bolt and nut that hold it in....whats the secret from there?

i put a nut on the threads (to not damage them) and hit the spindle pin with a hammer. it moves a 1/4 inch each direction but seems to be stuck in there.

[fastzcars]

There's a small retaining pin holding the large pin in place. Look for a small 10 mm nut at the bottom of the cast iron suspenion strut. Remove the nut and hammer the small taper retaining pin out. Then you can hammer out the large spindel pin.

[The Rototiller]

There's a small retaining pin holding the large pin in place. Look for a small 10 mm nut at the bottom of the cast iron suspenion strut.

 

already removed that.....

[fastzcars]

did you try soaking the area of the spindle with WD40 overnight? Use a larger hammer.

[JMortensen]

I think he has that out already if he could pivot the swingarm as far as it is in the picture.

 

The answer is getting the spindle pins out is a ROYAL PITA! There is a spindle pin removal tool that was floating around Hybrid Z for awhile. You might want to see if you can track it down. Otherwise the most prudent thing to do is take the strut/control arm assy to a machininst and have them press the pin out.

 

Some claim that you can hammer the pin out, but not in my experience.

[clarkspeed]

Search for the spindle pin removal tool dude on this site. I bought one and it works!

[rp975]

I have attached a photo of a spindle pin remover for you.

You buy a lenght of threaded rod and nuts from a hardware store, a length of round or squatre tube just larger than the diameter of the spindle pin and will allow a wheel nut to pass through it.

You then weld a wheel nut( which is the same thread as the spindle pin)

onto the end of the threaded rod. As you can see this is then screwed onto the end of the spindle pin(as in photo).

Then the tube has a washer on the end and when you put this over the threaded rod and put a nut on the end, you can tighten the nut and it will draw the spindle pin out of the housing. It helps if you can soak the ends of the pins overnight each end.

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3738&cat=500&page=2

[The Rototiller]

ok here is another question. i wanted to swap out the r180 in my 1971 240z for an r200. i was lucky enough to find and pull the whole rear suspension, axels, and differential off of a 1978 280z at the local pick-n-pull. i also wanted to use the stronger stub axle from the 280z. someone told me that instead of fussing with trying to remove just the stub axle, just swap the whole strut assembly. my question is can i remove the control arm and strut assembly from my 1971 240z and replace it with the control arm and strut assembly from the 1978 280z?

 

i searched around with some keywords and didnt find anything....

[JMortensen]

Not so simple. The 280 strut is longer and has the spring perch in a different spot, and also has a thicker rubber insulator on top. It will lift the back end of your Z way up in the air. If you section the struts and relocate the spring perch it will work. If you don't want to do all of that then just buy or make a spindle pin puller or have them pressed out.

 

If you want the 280 stub axles swap them into the 240 strut housings. They fit right in and take the same bearings and seal. You can use this as an excuse to replace the wheel bearings too.

 

If you aren't pushing a whole bunch of power you probably don't need to swap the stubs.

[The Rototiller]

Not so simple. The 280 strut is longer and has the spring perch in a different spot' date=' and also has a thicker rubber insulator on top. It will lift the back end of your Z way up in the air. If you section the struts and relocate the spring perch it will work. If you don't want to do all of that then just buy or make a spindle pin puller or have them pressed out.

 

If you want the 280 stub axles swap them into the 240 strut housings. They fit right in and take the same bearings and seal. You can use this as an excuse to replace the wheel bearings too.

 

If you aren't pushing a whole bunch of power you probably don't need to swap the stubs.[/quote']

 

are the control arms the same?

 

i am in the middle of a sbc 350 240z conversion. not sure if the 1971 240z stubs will hold up...

[JMortensen]

The control arms are very slightly different but I believe they interchange with no problems. Haven't done it myself.

 

If you're running skinny tires and not drag racing then the 240 stubs should hold up. If you're going to be flared on DRs and headed to the strip every weekend then you'll need to upgrade the stubs.

[Pop N Wood]

Of course everything Jon says is true, but IMO it would be good practice to pull the 35 year old stub axles for an inspection anyway. I have read of enough sheared stub axles with otherwise stock 240's that it just seems like the safe thing to do. And, while you have them out, why not upgrade to the heavier 280 stubs?

[cobraz240z]

burn the bushing of course but to take the steel sleeve out make a cut on it with a sawzaw just a small line don't want to go to deep one is enough but you could make 2 and use a socket of equal size and bank it out that is the easy way the other way is a bit harder