COZY Z COLE Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Many thanks to all the members on this site who's idea's I used for this task... Also ROSS at MM for the billet cv adapter kit and custom shafts. P/P in Fairfield, Ca. for the R-230, cv joints, and front diff. mount from a 91 300ZX TT and cv joints from a Q45. Drive Line Service of Concord for adding a u-joint to the flange yoke ( Powertrain Industries part # 3102-42) and adding that to my driveshaft. John at Bad Dog Parts for the frame rail support. Most of all to Bob Lapp at Rio Vista Muffler for fab work and installation...... LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdmz Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 What are your impressions of how it rides with your new set up??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Nice pics! The acceptance speech wasn't bad either. I did something very similar to your upper brace. Do you get any rubbing between the Upper brace bar and the diff cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Cozy, you're more than welcome! Great to see parts put to such fine use! We'd love to see your ride (and many others) in the 'rides' section of our website if you get a chance. If you need help dialing in the rear suspension we've got the fully adjustable rear control arms available now. Cheers and enjoy your Z! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Looks awsome and similar to what I did. Now I have a question... did you attach the front to rear pieces that support the front rear support brace to the original bolt holes that the original rear strap? (I hope that made sense) Another way to ask.... did you only use your front to rear tubing to support your rear diff front brace? I did ... I originally had the front to rear braces out of 1" square tubing going from the rear a-arm supports to the front brace and on that I made a support for the front braces of the rear diff to bolt to. That was it. Then after the first time at the track, I found that the front to rear braces bent slightly from the launches. The front of the rear pulling up bent the square tubing braces. So I rebent them back and I then made braces on both sides that bolt in to the original holes (2 on each side of the hump) for the stock front diff strap, and I welded them to the braces beside where the front brace goes. I will be launching harder this Friday and the braces should hold now, but I was suprised that my original support bent. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Larry, looks nice. Did you snap any pics of your mount/brace as you were building it, and before you installed it? I'm trying to get a mental pic of how all that works out.... thanks - joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 sweet that looks so nice and snug, i admire your crafty fabrication skill. Im still learning to weld, sort of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 I did ... I originally had the front to rear braces out of 1" square tubing going from the rear a-arm supports to the front brace and on that I made a support for the front braces of the rear diff to bolt to. That was it. Then after the first time at the track' date=' I found that the front to rear braces bent slightly from the launches. The front of the rear pulling up bent the square tubing braces. So I rebent them back and I then made braces on both sides that bolt in to the original holes (2 on each side of the hump) for the stock front diff strap, and I welded them to the braces beside where the front brace goes. I will be launching harder this Friday and the braces should hold now, but I was suprised that my original support bent. Jody[/quote'] Yep - depending on what ratios you are running and your engine setup, it's possible to put upwards of 4-5000 lbs of upward force on the front diff mount if the tires hook up in 1st. I used a similar setup and did not use the diff strap mounting holes. I was worried about bending the braces, so I used two 3/4" square tubes stacked on one another and stitch welded together, and then welded a 1.5" x 1/8" flat bar down the side for additional strength. So far it has not bent - I was kind of thinking maybe that was overkill, but now you're kind of making me glad I did it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Larry - thanks for the mention re: Bad Dog Parts - frame rails. We look forward to the next set of progress report pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted September 24, 2005 Author Share Posted September 24, 2005 Thanks for the comments.... I'll report back next week on my findings after a few spins and a dyno session before my new 195 AFR heads are installed.....A couple more pics to show the flange yoke, craddle, and frame rail supports......BTW I've installed a new Weiand 144 pro street blower. LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 25, 2005 Share Posted September 25, 2005 Larry, Great work! it looks fantastic! I'm wondering how the angle is on the axle shafts? Is your car lowered significantly? I know Rick(Speeder) raised his diff a bit. Yours looks a fair amount lower. I'm probably going to start my R230 install tomorrow. I'm working out the details now. I'm building a rear mount similar to Black Beaut's. Eliminating the up-rights and making one unit to hold everything. My idea is flawed now since It looks like the diff may interfere with the top bar. I'm using 2" Sq. .120" wall tubing. I almost went with 1.5" sq tube, but figured the 2" would be stronger and look better. And, take the punishment of 6500rpm lunches from my stick shift RB26. Ignore the control arm, it's an old one I aborted. I have a WAY better idea now. Basically, you see, I'm not just "swapping" a diff, I'm building a completely new rear suspension utilizing the best parts I can afford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 Cole, Do you have exhaust clearance issues now? at the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted October 30, 2005 Author Share Posted October 30, 2005 Cole' date=' Do you have exhaust clearance issues now? at the back?[/quote'] I have sidepipes with 4 1/2 inch clearance. I have more problems with cement stops in parking spots hitting my front air damn...... After driving about four weeks with the R-230 diff. everything is going smooth. Just retightened all the bolts and so far so good...... 195 AFR heads in a couple weeks...... LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 It's going on six months now with this conversion and other than the common bolt tightening the set-up has worked great. I also added adj. rear control arms from Ross to dial the alignment in and she's straight as an arrow. Might post a launch video in the near future and a track run video.... LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Digging up an old post..... Did you have to cut/notch the subframe to clear the diff? Also, did you space the diff forward at all? Lastly, did you have to modify the lower control arms to clear the CV's? Thank you for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 Digging up an old post..... Did you have to cut/notch the subframe to clear the diff? Also, did you space the diff forward at all? Lastly, did you have to modify the lower control arms to clear the CV's? Thank you for your time. The answer to your three questions is ...No. The R-200 Must. bar was redrilled to fit the R-230 diff. The rear sway bar needed to be mod. to fit. The driveshaft length needed to be mod. to fit. A pic of Ross's adj. rear control arms... LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 The answer to your three questions is ...No.The R-200 Must. bar was redrilled to fit the R-230 diff. The rear sway bar needed to be mod. to fit. The driveshaft length needed to be mod. to fit. LARRY Same here, except I didn't have to do anything with my sway bar - I used a Suspension Techniques bar, and it clears everything so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Another question. Is the front mount that you used for the R230 the same bolt mounting spacing on R200's from Q45's? I ask because I am in process of doing the R230 swap (from a 300zxtt) and I am about to get the last pair of CV's for the swap from a '90's Q45 in the wreaking yard. So if the front mount you used from a 300zxtt is the same bolt spacing, I'll grab it too while I am at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 I don't know if this answers your question but I used the 300ZXTT front mount by shortening the pass. side and used the existing mounting holes as shown in the second picture in post # 11. LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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