Guest Aaron Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 just not the Z project. Saturday (7/20) I officially started building my shop. I am building in a relatively flat spot, so I have removed the topsoil, and leveled the chert/clay underneath. This stuff is almost like rock, so I won't have any problems with settling, etc. I had a hydrolic line burst on my tractor, so I have to fix that before I can finish and begin prepping for the slab. My plans are for a 24ft x 24ft shop, 12ft ceiling, attic with outside access. On a side note, I was in the local Lowes, and I was looking at the garage floor epoxy's that are available. Has anyone else used them in there own garage? I have looked at one by Rustoleum, and one be Valspar. The Rustoleum claims to be more chemical resistant, but is $20 more than the other. Any opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 Aaron, I don't have any experience with those brands. I used Sherwin Williams Tile Clad II. Good stuff. But if I could find something tougher and more chemical resistant I would use it, and $20 a gallon wouldn't stop me. I really like the epoxy painted floor. You can wipe up spills easily, and brake fluid hardly touches the stuff (just cleans it up a bit ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 WOW $250 to $300 for a 24x24? That means my garage would be between $800 and $1000 Maybe I can get a volume discount That would really cut into my floor hoist fund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Yes you would probably get the paint for a little less depending on how much you need,a 24x24 requires a little less than 5gallons. How big is your shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Oh yea, Tim you can get the industrial stuff at Sherwin Williams without paying industrial prices. I've built over 300 garages and applied paint at least half of them. The key to keeping the paint on the floor is getting the floor clean and then using an etching agent to make the paint stick. I have seen cheap Home Depot paint one a floor that was prepped properly and hasn't come up in 7 tears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Haven't priced it yet but when my garage is done I want to coat it too. Am looking here -> http://www.ucoatit.com/ to see if it's cost effective. Warning, noisy site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 My shop is 30'x60'. I wish it was bigger,but the city won`t let me expand. I`m adding a 30x50 pad next to it to give me someplace to park my trailer and possibly the Ford F800 that I`m trying to make a deal on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 If you want to paint your floor and not have to worry about it for many tears, go to your local paint store and buy the best 2 part epoxy paint you can find. But before you paint, be sure to clean the floor with a goood degreaser and then use an etching agent to make the paint stick. If you don't use the etching agent, your paint will not last very long under heavy use. I have done several garages and the materials for a 24X24 should run around 250-300 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 I've seen several complanies that offer a coating very similar to (IF NOT THE SAME) as truck bed liners (spray on). Might be worth a try. As for the local purchase stuff, forget about it if you want longevity. Look into the industrial stuff like what they use to coat hazardous waste containment areas and man hole access holes. The stuff is very expensive, but holds up to acids, petrochemicals and traffic (like hot tires when you pull in a car). If you need some links let me know and I will try to find the ones we used in our containment berms. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Denny, it will take roughly 12 gallons to do a 30x60 so i don't think you will save any money buying in bulk as you'd have to buy a 55 gallon drum. But just to be sure, check your local paint stores. Jim is ucoatit the product that they used on "Dream Car Garage" I saw this last week and was interested in the product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boobala Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Another alternative is Air-Tech Coatings Inc.'s "Hard Deck". Air Tech has been a leader in coatings for aviation since the late 80's. As a companion to its aircraft coatings Air Tech has manufactured and offered a unique floor coating system for hangar floors- HARD DECK. HARD DECK is noted for its high chemical and abrasion resistance and the fact it will not be lifted by "hot tires". This makes it suitable for the many applications which AIR-TECH customers might uncover like. Garages, auto/rv/vehicle dealerships, manufacturing and warehousing facilities etc. In fact, one of the top applications is for veterinary clinics it is one of the very few coatings which will stand up to dog and cat excrement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Is the etching agent required no matter what the surface finish? I was planning on having the slab finished with a trowel or brush so there would be a texture for the epoxy to grab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviatorx Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Use a slightly diluted solution of muratic acid to etch the cement...but more importantly, and this can not be overstated - CLEAN the floor, and then clean it again! If the floor is older make sure you wash the surface well, especially if you live in the rust belt where salt is used on the roads. Nothing will lift paint faster than salts leaching out of the cement pad... I, too have used the Home Depot floor paint and have nothing but compliments on it's weability over the past 2 years, and you can't beat $15/gal pricing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 Yes, the epoxy paints I've seen for this all talk about USP washing and etching with acid. These steps are imperatvie to having the paint stick! This is a big job to do right. And make DARNED sure that it's not going to rain for 24hours afterwards as you need to leave the doors and windows open for that long. The fumes from the epoxy paints are really bad for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 I have made progress. I have a working driveway to the shop (still making it pretty). And finally have the slab poured after several weather delays. I have bush-hogging to do this weekend, and my Gospel group is recording next week, so I won't make any progress for a while. The next step is blocks and bricks, then my own framing party (got to start saving for that). Here are a few pictures. At the back yard gate facing the road. Facing the front of the shop. Cars will enter from right side. Facing side of building. Panoramic view of the back yard. This picture is large, so I did not include it in the post, it shows the entrance to the shop and it's general location to my home and other building. The pasture shown is part of my grandparent's farm. Time to bale hay again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 ahhh.... you have a river in your backyard.... you suck... j/k... Nice location I'm in the process of building a house myself.... After reading some of the posts...I guess I should put epoxy down as soon as possible... how long to wait after they pour the concrete floor to do the epoxy?? (not trying to thread crap Aaron) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Actually its just a 4 acre lake, and I have only been fishing 2 times in the last 4 years. Time to wait seems to depend on the brand of epoxy. Most is around 30 days. I am going to wait until the shop is finished, so that I don't chip or mess it up during the construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Aaron, you might want to grade the high side of your yard that butts up to the slab some more. I have found that a good 30 feet from the building will help to prevent water from getting into the slab in the event of a flood, even when you use a course of cinderblocks. Also I would be sure to seal them with some block sealer as this helps cut down on the moisture that gets into the building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted February 10, 2003 Share Posted February 10, 2003 It is amazing how life takes up so much time. If I could just quit this job and someone pay me gobs of money to do what I want... But I digress. I have been saving and finally purchased the concrete blocks for my project (2/1/03). I also have the money to purchase the dry-in lumber, and my wife's uncle (a contractor) has promised to send a couple guy's up to frame it for me when I am ready. Free of charge! This past weekend (2/7/03) we set the four corners of the shop, as well as the door openings. While waiting for the corners to set, we then went through the pile of I beams at my grandparents farm and started preparing a 7†I beam that will support the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted April 28, 2003 Share Posted April 28, 2003 Oh Lord I am slow! I am finally about to finish up the block work (on the bright side, I did find out this is NOT my calling in life). I went to a farm auction this weekend because they had some good lumber they were selling. I had to buy by the bundle of lumber, so I ended up with enough lumber to build the shop twice, but I will use it all on some of the other building projects i have planned for the next couple years. I saved between $0.40 and $2.00 per board based on the best price I have at a hardware store. I am going to need a few other pieces of lumber and plywood/wafer board which I am going to buy over the next few weeks, and I am meeting with my wife's uncle this week to go over my plans. I hope to have pics of a framed in building soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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