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HybridZ

Boobala

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Everything posted by Boobala

  1. Early 260Z, located on right hand side by the evap system. Has a round 4 pin plug: Thanks in advance.
  2. Seem it will in fact be a boring Tilke track.
  3. Let's just hope they don't build another flat, boring Hermann Tilke track.
  4. has not set their status

  5. Everything I've read suggest that the IR Cut Filter in the D80 is too strong for practical IR photography, but I could be wrong. All the shots I've seen have been made with D80's that were modified (remove the IR Cut Filter and install a IR only filter), and this renders the camera useless for anything other than IR. You can get a D70, or D70s on eBay for between $100-$200.
  6. Find out first if your DSLR is sensitive enough for IR photography before wasting money on an IR filter. The Nikon D70 is an excellent IR Camera, while the Canon 300D is not. In fact, I don't think any Canon DSLR is good for IR photography without heavy modification. Earlier Nikons such as the D70 and D70s are great while some, like my D300, are not. Do some research before buying the IR filter.
  7. Excuse me, I meant 70-300mm. With a crop body camera it comes out to 105-450mm. Sharpness? I used a tripod and a remote release, and I got lucky.
  8. Thanks guys! I've edited the post to indicate the equipment used.
  9. Nikon D300 + Nikkor 18-200mm Nikon D70 + Nikkor 18-70mm & Hoya R72 IR Filter Nikon D70 + Nikkor 18-70mm & Hoya R72 IR Filter Nikon D70 + Nikkor 18-70mm & a Nikon SB800 Speedlight (bounced off a white card) Nikon D300 + Nikkor 35mm Nikon D300 + Nikkor 35mm Nikon D70 + Nikkor 18-70mm & Hoya R72 IR Filter Nikon D70 + Sigma 70-300mm
  10. Sorry, but I prefer the black.
  11. http://www.datsunrestore.com/
  12. I could build a pretty sweet L28 for $3532.54 USD!
  13. Tell me everything you know about these... Kameari Exhaust Header - 48mm - Stainless Steel ($1222.54 - $2681.49 USD!) or... Kameari Exhaust Manifold Header Drag 1-6 48mm Stainless Steel L20~L28 ($3532.54 USD!)
  14. Call me when they get to the "Jetsons" stage of development.
  15. SWEET!. Other than the two-tone, this is exactly what I've been wanting to do to my dash (and more) for years. Where do you get this "Soft Touch vinyl" you speak of? I've googled my fingers to the bone and can find nothing.
  16. Here's mine. The previous owner cut the center section (between the buggy bumpers) out. Giving it a split-bumper. I don't much care for it and had planned to install a proper 240Z bumper, but I decided to hold off 'cause I may go with a MSA Type III front-end or a G-Nose.
  17. Tis me, what do you want to know?
  18. I'm with you 90% of the way, but I do like the MSA Type III kit. I think it modernizes the car without destroying the beautiful lines of a Z.
  19. It's hard to say what I like, but easy to tell you what I dislike... Whale-tails (The Mullet of the automotive world). Big (tall) wings. Cowl-inducted hoods that are over 2" tall. Holes in the hood for any reason. Hood Scoops and NACA Ducts Anything carbon fiber that isn't painted. Easter egg paint jobs. One color is sufficient, thanks. (I can tolerate well-done rally stripes) Sucker-Fish type Air dams. Anything that replaces the sugar scoops. (Clear/smoked covers are fine). G-Nose without a tasteful air dam. Fender mirrors. What I do like... "Subtle Z" body kit. MSA Type X body kit. (A kit that combined the "Subtle Z' and MSA Type III would be ideal.) G-Nose with tasteful Air dam (see the dam in my sig. pic) and either molded-in fender flares or the ZG flares. Low/small/subtle spoiler.
  20. Hmm.. That airdam looks familiar. I wonder why?
  21. This is viperredls1z's car More pics here.
  22. Here's a little virtual paintjob I did a long time ago. The car was originally gunmetal gray.
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