Sleeper-Z Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 So i've decided to sandblast my entire shell, including the underbody once i get some scrap for a rotisserie (minus roof and what's left of the body panels on the shell, unless i decide otherwise and go ahead and blast it...) with black diamond media (it's cheap and no silica, Northern Tool has it). My question is, right after i blast it and get all the media out, what should i prime the bare metal with? I was reading up on Por-15 but this should be "paint on rust" and it is said that you will not get a nice topcoat over this (i will be blasting the inside of the cab and roll cage which i will want to be painting the body color). Keep in mind after i blast, and coat/treat, i will be cutting and replacing/welding; and adding in new sheet metal where needs to be. So i guess the real question is: What is a good primer that can be used on bare, untreated metal; will prevent rust; can be sanded off in some areas; welded and recoated without having to coat a whole section; and... can also be used later on to paint a topcoat on. ALSO, it must weather well, the car will be kept outside. I was also looking into PPG dplf epoxy primer, but it says after 7 days i will need to sand it off and recoat (note: it must not be sanded and then painted over, but it must be uniform). I'm a little confused, but i'm trying to be cost efficient and not have to coat the car twice with primer. Any suggestions? Eastwood's Aluminum Bloxide (weldable primer)? Thanks in advance, Steven M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 i think RacerX and Ed like a product called Zero Rust www.zero-rust.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 http://www.picklex.com is a great surface treatment, but not a primer. You can coat the whole thing in Picklex 20 and weld whatever you want, then when it's done use Rust Bullet or similar over the Picklex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I would just clean it good and spray it with Epoxy primer. When you need to make a weld, just sand the primer in that spot, make your repair, and re-prime that location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeper-Z Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 zero-rust seems like the right thing for me. I don't want her to rust anymore! (i know with a well prep'd car i shouldn't worry, but with as much rust as my Z has i won't take my chances!) i guess ill be PM'ing those that have used it and construct a little interview. now my only gripe is, why the heck is steel upwards of $1.75/lb~~! looks like i gotta see if i can trade some 400 lbs. of scrap for some square tubing tomorrow or wednesday. rotisserie time i go! Thanks guys, Steven M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeper-Z Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 forgot to add, i like pickle x (use to use it when i use to powder coat stuff), but i think zero rust would be a better alternative since i don't have to deal with ordering from pickle x and then order from somewhere else for primer. thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I always use a DuPont etching primer for bare metal stuff, it's not cheap either. The local auto paint store carries it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MusPuppis Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Can Zero-Rust be painted over? Like use it to prime the bare metal, then scuff sand it and lay a good two stage primer on top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Use ZR for undercarriage and interior. Use EPLF for engine compartment and outside. You can scuff the epoxy and shoot another coat on at any time later, after body work, etc. I wouldn't bother with ZR as the base for epoxy. I think you may have the impression that once epoxy is out pf its' recoat window that you can't scuff and respray it - you can. What you can't do is wait 'til it's outside the window, scuff and put other primer/surfacer or paint on it. Once DPLF is outside its' recoat window, you mearly have to scuff and spray another coat on, then you're ready for primer/surfacer and paint. Sorry for the repetition, but it does bear repeating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MusPuppis Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Well, the reason I was asking was because ZR is available in cans, and at the moment, and probably for a while yet, I wont have the money for an air compressor + paint gun + paint + crap to build a paint booth. I want to get started on the body work as soon as I can but I dont want to spend alot of time stripping and grinding only to have the area rust a little on me in the month or so before I can get the compressor and paint supplys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeper-Z Posted October 13, 2005 Author Share Posted October 13, 2005 Use ZR for undercarriage and interior. Use EPLF for engine compartment and outside. You can scuff the epoxy and shoot another coat on at any time later' date=' after body work, etc. I wouldn't bother with ZR as the base for epoxy. I think you may have the impression that once epoxy is out pf its' recoat window that you can't scuff and respray it - you can. What you can't do is wait 'til it's outside the window, scuff and put other primer/surfacer or paint on it. Once DPLF is outside its' recoat window, you mearly have to scuff and spray another coat on, then you're ready for primer/surfacer and paint. Sorry for the repetition, but it does bear repeating.[/quote'] Thanks, helped alot. Talked it over with my brother and i'll be blasting the known rust parts and just using rattle can primer to coat it so it won't flash rust. after i've tackled all that, i will sand to bare and use DPLF throughout. The car will be also be showcased so the interior, engine bay, and body will all be painted a nice shiny color; while the undercarriage might be treated with ZR, or it might be painted as well (don't think im going to see too much rain, i don't think i'm going to put in side windows) thanks for the help and the double repeat, made it easier to understand. almost through with welding the rotisserie, she goes on tomorow after i get off class. i'll be posting pics so come back and see! cheers, steven m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 From what I remember, DPLF only needs to be scuffed with a grey scotchbrite pad. Shouldn't take too long. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeper-Z Posted October 13, 2005 Author Share Posted October 13, 2005 yeah paint and body is a easy, but a looonnnggggg process, shouldn't be too much. going to try to have her repaired and in primer in about 3 months (sucks when you have school, but hey, winters almost here), paint can go on later after motor mock up and what not. just gotta get more business and more money! hopefully be done and racing in 2-3 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 What does EPLF and DPLF stand for? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 I wouldn't use rattle can primer - it is porus to rain. I'd go ahead and use Zero Rust, but then sand it all off (don't know how hard this would be). I understand your desire to get 'er done, but I honestly think you're better off waiting until you can get a compressor and paint gun and do the DPLF. Part of the delay can be alleviated by just doing the undercarriage first, which won't get rain, and use ZR on it. Not all your time will be wasted. As far as a paint gun, get a relatively inexpensive one for primer. HF has a pretty good one for ~$49. I predicate this last statement on the premise that after you get through with all body work, you will be putting on a coat or two of primer/surfacer and block sanding everything smooth, then a final coat of reduced DPLF as a sealer and then the final paint stages (bc/cc or single stage). I have oe of the HF guns and bought the 3 gun set from Northern tools on sale for $89. The 3 gun set has a detail gun and two different guns, one for primer and one for paint. These are all HVLP guns and my $400 compressor from HD handles them fine in my testing - at least at the rate that I will be spraying. I will not be using any of these for the top coats, just for primer when I get around to actullay not dismantling and welding. Running a restaurant leaves little free time.... I like going to the AutoBodyShop Forum and reading the posts on painting there, since the last time I painted was 30 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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