rudypoochris Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Last question... Caliper flex Outlaw vs Wilwood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scca Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 you need to be more specific thats like saying ford vs. chevy. what outlaw caliper? vs. what wilwood one- some wilwoods are cast - all outlaws are billet. if cost is no object buy brembos afaik the stiffest there is- there is a new outlaw 4000xd that is on my race car - a LOT stiffer than the older 4000 but complete overkill on a street car. higher end setups usually require dual master cylinders and a balance bar- this isnt in your average rod or street car. pedals and masters alone will run you $350 As Mikelly said the AZZ is almost an identical kit- you are paying for anyones kit by the fact that its together and will work - you can buy your own calipers and rotors and make your own hats but make sure the piston size you choose works and the pad compound and it clears you ball joint! if you or a friend can make the hats for free .. ie no labor then go for it- otherwise you wont save any money and might even spend more by the time its finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Dreamer Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Hey scca/Mike I haven't seen your name online for sometime! Are you still in the brake business? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Ok so mike, the 2800 Outlaw vs the AZC 4 piston caliepr on the 12.2" setup. For flex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scca Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 yea still doing brakes- been mostly working on race cars lately- and i do one off projects now- right now theres a SBC Z in the shop doing brakes and suspension - prev to that i have been working on 65-6 mustangs again and now i have an new racecar 240sx-- although i still have the 200sx too.. Rudy.. the 12.2's HAVE to have a 15" rim- and they wont work on an original 280zx 15" rim (afair) a good aftermarket centerline/panasport will clear it. and you have to compare apples to apples if your comparing the az kit in 12.2 then compare it to the stage 3 outlaw- virtually identical performance- i honestly dont know if EITHER would outperform the other , thats a late model stock car setup for 3500lb 700hp cars - its more than enough for any street car- some of the AZ kits used a cast caliper some dont- so depends on the caliper thats really a personal preference- the dynalite or superlite wilwood - one is billet .. that is virtually no difference than the 3000 outlaw. when you get into this type of brake stuff the only limit is wheel size and $$$ have 18" rims we can build any kit with 14 or 15" rotors but the cost is hugely increased over the 11 or 12's, 13's are about 2x the price of 12's so very few will go for that or the larger rotors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 I did some checking with Wilwood and their most rigid Dynalite caliper for the rear was the cast Dynalite. Everyone carries the billet one, I even had to special order the cast caliper, but that's what Wilwood's own tech line said was the most rigid. This is the one in particular that I bought: http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/016-NDL/index.asp On the superlites, they do say that this billet Superlite is the best: http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/011-SL4/index.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 ok i got the pics and don't know to post them can someone help me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted December 17, 2005 Author Share Posted December 17, 2005 here are the pics of my home made brake kit and home made coilovers 11.75" rotors not bad here is my coil over i have the shortend struts and tokico hts shocks heres the beast under construction here is the front brakes 11.75 rotors every thing just bolted on I hardly needed to do modifications Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest speedmon Posted December 17, 2005 Share Posted December 17, 2005 Nice PICs.......thats not the easiest process, is it. Your brakes, suspension and even your inner fender well looks great. This is off the subject (Ha!).....but what kind of power are you planning to mate up with your handling and braking capacity. What about an SR20DET? I know its only a 4 banger and it might be blasphamy, but I saw one the other day and this guy told me he was putting down 400rwhp and that it revs to almost 8K.....what a screamer. You can buy a complete engine/trans etc on ebay for around $2K. If you could design a kit for that I'll buy one! Neeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeen(tup) Neeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee(tup) Neeeeeeeeeeeeeeee............................................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 17, 2005 Share Posted December 17, 2005 uh-o (in reference to the custom coil over photos) did I do my bumpstops wrong or did you? I see your bumpstop is pointing up with the base of the cone over the gland nut, mine is exactly the opposite, the base of the cone is at the top of the strut where the spring meets the car, with the cone pointing down. Did I do it wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 well as for power on my car i was thinking of putting a 302 with a turbo when i had the setup on my stang i was putting 562 at the wheels with a totaly stock 302 just with a fuel upgrades but i think im just going to put the stock l24 with with some head work and the 3x2 dellorto car setup with a custom (home made) turbo kit i just want to put 200 to the wheels and the car should be fast enough for me its i light car and i wan't it to handle most of all ohh the bumb stops being backward you could put them either way it will still do the same job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 ohh the bumb stops being backward you could put them either way it will still do the same job Cool, whew. I think it is better on the sprung side as unsprung weight 4lbs = 1lb, lol now I am just being overly technical. Any way what psi were you making 560 at the wheels with? (just wondering b/c i am droppin a 302 in the Z) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat260 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Hi cobraz240z Did you make your own brackets to mount the front and rear calipers? Cheers, Ari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 i was running around 22psi the calipers bolt right up to the front no brakets just straight bolt on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat260 Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 i was running around 22psi the calipers bolt right up to the front no brakets just straight bolt on How about the rear? Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busmn280 Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 FWIW I went with Wilwood AZC four piston Superlites in frt and AZC single piston Dynalites in the rear. Very happy with this setup except for noise. Have tried several different pad types but cant seem to get rid of brake squeal. Anyone else running Wilwoods having similar problems? The car will stop on a dime and give you nine cents change-earplugs required though!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 How about the rear?Cheers' date='[/quote'] the rears i made a copy of the maxima bracket and it bolted right up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 i have not driven mine yet ill let you know as soon as i do though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest speedmon Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 I have the ARZ 4 piston in front and rear and am currently running the Q pads. No squeal with these pads....but I'm thinking about moving to the E pads. What kind of pads are you running? Is it squeal or "pad noise"? Real agressive pads like the Js make noise until you get em up to operating temp. Sometimes squeal isn't just the pads but could be the harmonic resonance from the shims Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraz240z Posted December 21, 2005 Author Share Posted December 21, 2005 i don't know i need to check the guy who sold them to me told me the ones i got are streetable but good for ocasional auto crossing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.