Here comes trouble Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=a576&.dnm=87eb.jpg&.src=ph I am in the planning stage of fabricating a set of camber plates for the 280 Z. Apparently front and rear camber plates are identical which will make the fabrication easier. The top 3 bolt slotted adjusting plate will be mild steel 3 1/2 inch wide by 4 1/2 inch long (with length being tapered after the first 2 inches to a 2 inch wide end. The 3 slots are roughly 1 1/2 inch long and 3/8 inch wide. For the adjusting plate I will buy a length of bar stack 3 1/2 x 3/16 inch thick about 2 feet long to do about 6 plates........ I am hoping that I can find some large washers with a 3 1/2 inch O.D. and an inside diameter of 2 inches for the bottom fastener plate. I can then slice out 1 5/8 inch of the washer without much other fabrication to the washers for the bottom fastener plate which will look like the letter "C". I plan to use 3/8 inch threaded elevator bolts (flat bolt heads) to secure the top adjuster plate to the bottom "washer" fastener plate....... The difficult part:The top adjuster plate will need a com10 sperical monoball bearing with housing. The bearing is not difficult but the housing to be welded to the top adjusting plate will be a challenge to fabricate unless I can find a "cartridge" housing with snap rings for the com 10 bearing which will require a 1 1/4 inch inside diameter housing . A conical open ended 12mmX1.25 lug nut will miraclously fit the inside diameter of the monoball bearing to hold the strut cartridge threaded shaft end in place. The Datsun KYB strut cartrdges I have are:12mmx1.25, thread but the VW Jetta strut cartridge for a 2 inch sectioned strut tube has a larger thread shaft diameter... These camber plates will drop the Z down about two inches and I will not have to section the Strut tubes by 2 inches anyway. I considder sectioning the strut tubes a lot more work than fabricating camber plates considering that the rear strut pins will have to be removed. anyone ever doing this with even a strut pin removal will know what I an talking about. I am hoping that I can remove the old spring perches and weld in coilover perches without the entire rear strut assembly being removed .................I will add pictures as I progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted November 28, 2005 Author Share Posted November 28, 2005 Pictures ...com10 monobal, 12mmX1.25 open ended lug nut and strut cartridge/monobal/lugnut http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/a576 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 I found a possible source for the monoball "cartridge" housing. At this time out of pocket expenses for the parts and materials look like an optimistic minimum of $100.00 or less for a full set of four camber plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Found the washer 1/8 inch thick with a 3 5/8 O.D. and 1 3/4 inch inside diameter for the lower camber plate that will require the 3 mounting bolts The X area to be removed (cut out).. Photo http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=a576&.dnm=c86fscd.jpg&.src=ph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 3/8 inch Elevator bolts are out because they come in about a grade 3 and I want grade 8. I will probably modify grade 8 fine thread 3/8 button heads Bought ($7.70) a 4 3/4 inch by 7 foot by 3/16 inch thick (scrap) mild steel bar stock for the upper camber plate. I want to make at least 12 plates Will get a quote on cutting... water jet....or plasma .. I can case harden the adjusting slots. (2) Monoballs and housings are in the mail ....."setup" for the water jet cutting is $50.+ and $10.-15 for each cutting...too mich for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I am very intrested! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted December 6, 2005 Author Share Posted December 6, 2005 I cut 5 3 1/2" wide pieces out of the 5" X 3/16" thick 8 ft. bar stock to make one template and the beginning of 4 upper adjusting camber plates. The holes are 5/16" and undersize for the later 3/8' adjusting slots. I will use a hand disc grinder to connect the 5/16" holes to make the three 3/8' slots. The hole where the nut and bolt is located in the yahoo photo will be where the monoball bearing housing will be placed. The Stock Car Products housings have not arrived and I really do not know the exact diameter required for the housing hole which will probably require a 4 jaw chuck and lathe to cut to diameter. I will leave the upper adjusting camber plates in the rectangular shape until the housing hole is cut and then I will cut a taper along both sides of the bottom end with the centered 2 holes................ I will save the template as is for rapidly centering holes in any further upper camber plates http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/a576&.dnm=4698scd.jpg&.src=ph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted December 7, 2005 Author Share Posted December 7, 2005 The bearing housing from Stock Car Products will not work on the camber plate. Very frustrating..................................If I do not run on a fool's notion tomorrow... I may get the upper camber plates slotted.....Got a lead from Ocbarr on a CNC plasma cutter $20.00 set up and $5.00 per piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 Too close to xmas. Swore off eBay and quit hanging out by Harbour Freight. EB Machine may have the weld-on monball housing in standard and misaligned application. Anyway ...they are sending a catalog and I am broke and maxed.....been busy checking the free ads on Craig's List and posted a "wanted" ad in the free section. "I will haul away your problem 1970-1983 Datsun Z and ZX and 1983-84 Nissan Maxima etc etc "all my friend's have porches, Dear Lord buy me a mercedes Bents" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 My friend Ocbaar located a fellow with a CNC plasma cutter who will set up the program for the camber plate cut for $15.00 and cut the plates for $6.00 a piece and supply his own steel. UB Machine has the 5/8 " monoball housing for $12.50 a piece (#48-1010). I am waiting for them before the plasma cutting begins. The housing will most likely have to be machined for an outside diameter step (down) before attaching and spot welding to the camber plate..................................................UB Machine does a lot of racing parts manufacturing http://www.ubmachine.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Sounds good. I would probably be in on this. Alot simpler than doing the strut reconstruction. What would the cons be as opposed to the struct sectioning?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 Cru....Sectioning the struts in my opinion woud require camber plates for re-adjustment purposes after screwing up the camber..... sectioning struts is a PITA and labor intensive. I have done it on 2 - Z's. and screwed up one strut tube. (expensive mistake if you have no spares as I did) This modification of camber plates can be done without removal of the the rear strut pin (PITA MAJOR) which is required when sectioning struts. A person can add coilover sleeves and weld-in new lower spring perch by un-fastening the strut cartridge from the strut tower These camber plates with 5/8 inch monballs will require a strut cartridge with the OEM 12mm X 1.25 threads.I have and have sourced these nuts. The VW Jetta shorter strut cartridge has bigger Threads and would require a 3/4 " monoball and adapter for the larger thread size. .............................................edit..........Apparently the right sized monoball housings are being sent to me from UB Machine. A CNC plasma cutter operator has been located. The prototype camber plates should be done within 2 weeks. Looks like I have about all the parts sourced.... I may get creative and add on a caster adjustment to the plates by slotting the bottom washer. Looks like about 1/8 " in either direction could be slotted in for caster adjustment. This mod. will require the slotted washer to be welded to the top of strut tower. The strut tower will require slight (u-shaped) cutting and enlargement of the access hole for the strut cartridge nut. The (big) washer can be sourced locally The camber plates could ues another (big) washer on top the strut tower for strength if slotted and welded for caster adjustment ..............As I get the parts I will add pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 Finally recieved the correct 5/8's monoball housings from UB Machine #48-1011...will be looking to get the camber plate CNC plasma cut ina few days.....pictures http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=a576 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 Any more progress Larry? This is a very interesting project, the lug nut through the spherical bearing is pure genius. Mind if I copycat this for my 240? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypertek Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 why reinvent teh wheel? Anyways, for the price, techno toy tuning produces a pretty affordible set of weld in camber plates. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-260Z-280Z-Nissan-Datsun-Suspension-CAMBER-PLATES_W0QQitemZ8036605467QQcategoryZ33581QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem They are somewhat known in the toyota corrola ae86 scene for thier parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 why reinvent teh wheel? Anyways' date=' for the price, techno toy tuning produces a pretty affordible set of weld in camber plates. [url']http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240Z-260Z-280Z-Nissan-Datsun-Suspension-CAMBER-PLATES_W0QQitemZ8036605467QQcategoryZ33581QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/url] They are somewhat known in the toyota corrola ae86 scene for thier parts. And they look just like AZC's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 so why use the monoball joints like everybody is having problems with and use a johnny joint like they use in the baja 1000 trophy trucks? you wouldn't need all of it's travel (35 degrees) but it should be plenty strong and tight and the races are thick enough to be welded on no problem. plus they only cost like $35 each but they are bomb-proof and the rebuild kit is like $8 or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 this is straight off of the currie enterprises website Currie's Johnny Joint offer 30 degrees of unrestricted movement in any direction as compared to 22 degrees on a common heim joint. The bushing in the Johnny Joint rod ends are made with a high density, "tough 88" urethane that encases the inner ball. Its a very durable material and it is impervious to weather. The special ball is heat treated steel for extra strength. and on the 2" and 2 1/2" models the ball is cross drilled for thru-bolt lubrication. The 3" joint is lubricated via zerk fitting on the outer shell. Outer shells on the 2" and 2 1/2" are heat treated steel. The retaining washers on the 3" are machined out of 4340 chrome moly and feature a snap ring safety machined into the face of them to protect the snap ring safety machined into the face of them to protect the snap ring from coming out. 2" joints include a 9/16" greaseable thru-bolt, and the 3" joint accepts but does not include a 3/4" bolt. 2" and 2 1/2" joints are also available with a threaded stud welded to them. The 2" joint with stud has 2 1/2" of 3/4" thread, and the 2 1/2" joint with stud has 3" of 1" thread. All rod ends with thread welded to them include the necessary jam nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 They would take up alot of room. The diameter is pretty big compared to a monoball. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 I was thinking they were a little big but shouldn't be much of a problem...maybe I will make a pair of camber plates for my self since I am taking plasma cutting as the last course in my welding program and will have free access to a plasma table that can cut upto a 5'x10'x 1.5" thick material if I could draw a 2D version in autocad. I would just have to get the $5 of steel needed for the plates and monoball joints or johnny joints. hehe...$ 40 ea. camber plates... I could even buy a 4'x8'x3/16" and make up a bunch of them to sell:mrgreen: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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