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1tuffz update #2


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pulled the engine last week [3rd and hopefully last time]. tranny crossmember fitted and now off for powdercoating, rattle can'd the engine bay last night and will now begin the details prior to final install. tasks to complete prior to dropping eng/trans back in; install fuel tank & fuel lines, install brake booster & master-re-route brake lines, install proportion valve for brakes, clutch master & slave install, fabricate pcm mounting bracket & install, waiting for speartech harness-once arrives-install. i'm sure there's a bunch of other stuff i'll discover once i'm there but getting closer!

 

david

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pulled the engine last week [3rd and hopefully last time]. tranny crossmember fitted and now off for powdercoating' date=' rattle can'd the engine bay last night and will now begin the details prior to final install. tasks to complete prior to dropping eng/trans back in; install fuel tank & fuel lines, install brake booster & master-re-route brake lines, install proportion valve for brakes, clutch master & slave install, fabricate pcm mounting bracket & install, waiting for speartech harness-once arrives-install. i'm sure there's a bunch of other stuff i'll discover once i'm there but getting closer!

 

david[/quote']

 

Sounds like you are making some good progress. Make sure to take lots of pics for us that are just starting.

 

Andy

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  • 4 weeks later...

gas tank and trans crossmember back from powdercoater and nearly ready to install. i took a different approach to my clutch slave/master setup. i removed the bleeder and installed a 12" long flex line with a removeable plug at the end-essentially hangs down along the side of the trans for easier access and bleeding. for the clutch slave, i cut the hard line at the slave just below the factory quick disconnect fitting and tig welded [i can't weld, but had it done] a '-3 an' fitting in place. i'll then connect a '-3 ss braided' line to run from the slave to tilton master. once the tank is mounted [hopefully this weekend] i'll take the measurements for the fuel lines and fittings. i'm also in the process of rerouting the front brake lines so they're away from the headers. actually using a bulkhead fitting and running the line from the master thru the fender to a 'tee' then to left front directly and right front via the rear of the engine crossmember. after fuel & brake lines are done the engine goes back in [hopefully for the last time]. mounting the pcm behind the glovebox sharing heater fan mounts. i also figured a way to adapt a plastic 280z glovebox liner to my 240 box. i should be able to get some pics to put in the gallery this weekend. my speartech harness arrived yesterday, nice piece, patiently awaiting install.

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  • 2 weeks later...

gas tank installed [funny, i thought the 76 280 tank would bolt 'right in'] although when i test fitted it i didn't realize that i'd have to extend the filler neck or tank straps. anyway, that's done and in. i had been looking for an oem z wire harness firewall gromet that would seal the speartech harness in the same manner. called the dealer, they aren't available separately. called a friend who does alot of honda eng swaps and he had a few old honda wire harness lying around. i removed one of those seals, modified it and wrestled with it for about 30 minutes and it works like a champ. mounted it adjacent and down slightly from the factory z main harness where it pokes thru the firewall in the passenger footwell. i'll see if i can post a pic tomorrow in my gallery or in this thread. brake bias adjuster mounted as is the pcm [pic in gallery now]. to do; modify front brake lines, run fuel lines, reinstall engine, double check EVERYTHING, pick up headers from swain tech [thermal barrier coatings], wire gauges &-hold breath & fire in the hole!

 

it's tough to get motivated to go out in the cold [curr temp is 34 farenheit]. no insulation in garage

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Guest 73Turbo240z
gas tank installed [funny' date= i thought the 76 280 tank would bolt 'right in'] although when i test fitted it i didn't realize that i'd have to extend the filler neck or tank straps. anyway, that's done and in. i had been looking for an oem z wire harness firewall gromet that would seal the speartech harness in the same manner. called the dealer, they aren't available separately. called a friend who does alot of honda eng swaps and he had a few old honda wire harness lying around. i removed one of those seals, modified it and wrestled with it for about 30 minutes and it works like a champ. mounted it adjacent and down slightly from the factory z main harness where it pokes thru the firewall in the passenger footwell. i'll see if i can post a pic tomorrow in my gallery or in this thread. brake bias adjuster mounted as is the pcm [pic in gallery now]. to do; modify front brake lines, run fuel lines, reinstall engine, double check EVERYTHING, pick up headers from swain tech [thermal barrier coatings], wire gauges &-hold breath & fire in the hole!

 

it's tough to get motivated to go out in the cold [curr temp is 34 farenheit]. no insulation in garage

 

I didn't have any issues putting my 260 gas tank in my 240, however the 280z gas tank i have is completely wrong.

 

which does yours look like? since your doing this all on a 73' i assume you have the shoe gas tank, and not the twinkie shaped one.

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my 280 tank [actually got it from quick 240] is the 75-76 'shoe' model and generally fits the 240's. it seems a bit taller but has the same general shape as what i removed. the 77-78 280's had the different rear cargo deck and had also changed the tank to fit the new floor, that' probably the 'twinkie' shape you speak of.

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finished plumbing the brake lines last evening [we've had 40 degrees for the past couple days]. i ran a flex line from the master to the prop valve then flex adaptor from prop to stock rear line. for front i made a short 's' line that goes from master to a bulkhead fitting then on the other side of the fender to a 'tee' mounted to the stock tab. caliper flex line attaches to the 'tee'. from there the hardline [i used 3/16" stainless] thru the front crossmember [yes thru] to the pass side. i was really nervous about cutting, bending & flaring as this was my first time doing any brake line work. wasn't as hard as i anticipated and worked out pretty decent, for an ameteur. holding my breath now as the next step is bleeding the system and hoping my work doesn't leak! once that's complete it's onto the fuel lines then put the engine & tranny back in [hopefully for the last time]. pics in my gallery.

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just finished bleeding the master cylinder and brakes [my wife has done this so many times for me over the years, today she said "i could charge people for this service now that i'm so experienced!"] to which i replied "yes, of course dear". anyway, i'm thrilled to say i didn't have any leaks! did an initial set of the front/rear bias, will fine tune once she's back on the road again. now awaiting arrival of the stainless "-6 an" line and fittings so i can plumb the fuel lines. pics of my brake lines are in the gallery now. i'm especially proud of how they turned out, with the caveat that it was the first time i ever did any brake line work.

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Look nice David. I messed with double flaring brake lines quite a bit but ended up having limited luck with it. I guess I wasn't deburring the inside good enough because after a while they broke at the double flair.

 

Anyway, you pics are great! The car looks really good. Looks like you ended up doing the same thing to your clutch as I did. Drilling and tapping for a -3 line. That has worked out great. I felt that the brass was a little weak and might expand a bit so I locktited the snot out of the fitting and baked it for 2 hours at 250 degrees.

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dale, thanks for the compliment. on the clutch line i tried to 'gut' the factory quick disconnect so i could tig weld a -3 fitting to it. no luck, so we cut off the factory quick disc and tig'd a -3 fitting there. i'll then connect the -3 line prior to install of the trans, connecting to the clutch master after eng/trans goes back in.

 

for the brakes, i actually used a 37 degree [i think that's the number] single flare on a 3/16 stainless steel line. it was very tough to deburr. the 37 single [vs. the 45 double-factory] was a bit easier to do but allowed me to connect directly to my mml front flex lines [there was an adaptor to go from 45 to 37 there] but the adaptors are now at the master.

 

the real test will be once she's on the road again...

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spent hours yesterday plumbing my fuel lines [we here in upstate ny had an exceptionally rare and balmy winter 60 degree day-normally we'd have about 3' of snow and warm temp would be above freezing] and enjoyed the sun on my back as i worked on the z. another first for me-using 'an' fittings and attaching them to stainless braided teflon lines. from the tank feed, fuel filter, fuel pump, to the front then pressure regulator and back again. once the clutch line arrives the eng/trans goes back in, finish wiring and...[hold breath] and turn key!

 

i'll post pics in my gallery on tuesday of the fuel line progress, comments and feedback always welcome!

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