BillZ260 Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Was thinking about this on the way home from work. I'll price the new cam / lifter kit, and I'll try to sell the cam I have to make up the difference. If grumpy suggested it, I'm sure it's worth the little bit of money I'll end up being out. DOH, can't bump up the Compression any, pistons are in the motor. I'm stuck with 9.5, so is there a better cam for a daily driver that sounds good w/ 9.5? Otherwise what I have will be getting slid into place this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00211&x=36&y=4 if you only have 9.5 cpr to work with, and a potent daily driver with a noticable lope in the idle with great mid range power is the goal, this is a better match run the DD 2000 and see the differance compared to the orriginal choice if you can, post both graph power curve results, the orriginal; and the crower cam, Im sure the hp differance will be noticably better with the crower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Will do, I'll probably post the graph this weekend, gotta run to Houston for work tomorrow. Edit: Wow! I just looked at the lift, seems much milder, but that probably just show's what I know! Very little. I'll DD it and share the wealth Thanks Grumpy! I aslo want you to know I'm using one of the D. Vizard Books to step by step check and build this sbc. Just to let you know that your MEGA DATA posts are not in vane! The only thing I question in the book is the break in procedure, drive it easily for xxxx miles. This is old school rule of thumb right? Shouldn't I do the cam break-in once started, then the on off throttle to seat the rings? Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 keep the engine above 2500rpm and below about 5000rpm for the first 50 miles or for 2 hours, while you test drive and look for leaks, overheating ETC. remember to accellerate briskly up to 5000rpm, (no thats not meant as your to race the car or speed shift) and change the load on the engine frequently to let the rings seat, mostly to allow parts to lap in and the clearances to stabilize ,then change the oil and filter,to remove the crud that accumulates in the oil durring the break-in procedure, then drive it like youll use it! if it was assembled correctly thats all thats necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 How many of you killers have blown the bottom end out of a 2 bolt block? I am sure 99% of you guys really need a 4 bolt block. Oh yea, that 4 bolt block makes you so much faster. Are you going to be attending the SEZ race? If you are can I get a car length and the leave( or break) LOL. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 With the cam I have.... With the Crower Grumpy suggests... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Looks like Grumpy has the right idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Looks like Grumpy has the right idea... I have learned to NEVER doubt what Grumpy suggests. The man is a fount of knowledge learned through experience that most of us will never match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 4, 2006 Author Share Posted March 4, 2006 Cam is 160, I am guessing I could sell mine for 50-60 bucks? Wife says she doesn't care as long as it doesn't make the car louder? So the only question is will the springs on the EDDY heads I have be ok with this cam? I'll see if I can find a deal on it somewhere. Yes, Grumpy is the engine (and now garage) master... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 7, 2006 Author Share Posted March 7, 2006 Looking further into it, Cam and Kit is 350! (Kit = Lifters,Springs,Retainers,Seals) Lifters alone are $77 and the Cam alone is 153. ish. So if if the springs in my edelbrock heads are ok ( are they? )to run with this cam, I'll just need the Lifters for a total of $230. It looks like I'd have a hard time selling the cam. (Iv'e posted the pistons I have twice! on Ebay w/ no bids, cheap too!) The reason I am going through all this angst (sp?) is that I've spent a decent chunk, (not a ton) on this build, took all the (new in box from another project not finished) edelbrock parts as a deal, because I saw it as one and figured that I could just run with it. I guess my decision here is to listen to good advise and spend more $$ now and have the better torque curve and more HP, or run with what I have and be satisfied. I honestly think that I'll be happy with the parts I have for quite some time. Even once the thing is tuned up and running perfectly, I still have the interior, paint and all that jive to get finished. By the time I have all that sorted, it will probably be time to build another motor. Do I sound like a girl here or what? Geesh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 12, 2006 Author Share Posted March 12, 2006 Shortblock is complete! I'll take some pics this afternoon Everything is going together well, not rushing anything. I'm stoked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 got the heads on yesterday! SLOW going but I don't want to mess anything up. As for the head gaskets I used felpro. They were blue w/ metal rings around the cyl walls only. I didn't really gather from the Felpro instructions OR mr. vizzards book on whether I should have used sealer or not. The hinted towards not but I'd like to be sure. I did use a bit where the block surface was a bit washed out by coolant flow / rust. Any thoughts? Next up is checking pushrod length, lots of reading to do but In only have one lenth of rod, which came w/ the motor. I'll see how close they are and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 any comments on the head gaskets? I searched but didn't come up w/ much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 most of the modern gaskets REQUIRE zero sealant,(per the instructions) but I still spray them down on both sides with COPPER COAT and torque them into place while damp.and its been 20 plus years since I had a head gasket leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 I guess I'll leave them as is and if I have issues, do it again. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 It's getting there! Shortblock couple of weekends ago before I pressed on the HB. Heads are on it now. Need to check the valve train geometry still, been sick the last two weekends so not much going on. Just thought I'd post this up like I said I would. Don't mind the mess, I keep the stuff that needs to be CLEAN! (I only have a two car w/ one in it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 looks good so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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