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No more excuses!


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Was thinking about this on the way home from work. I'll price the new cam / lifter kit, and I'll try to sell the cam I have to make up the difference. If grumpy suggested it, I'm sure it's worth the little bit of money I'll end up being out.

 

DOH, can't bump up the Compression any, pistons are in the motor. I'm stuck with 9.5, so is there a better cam for a daily driver that sounds good w/ 9.5? Otherwise what I have will be getting slid into place this weekend.

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http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00211&x=36&y=4

 

if you only have 9.5 cpr to work with, and a potent daily driver with a noticable lope in the idle with great mid range power is the goal, this is a better match

 

run the DD 2000 and see the differance compared to the orriginal choice

 

if you can, post both graph power curve results, the orriginal; and the crower cam, Im sure the hp differance will be noticably better with the crower

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Will do, I'll probably post the graph this weekend, gotta run to Houston for work tomorrow. Edit: Wow! I just looked at the lift, seems much milder, but that probably just show's what I know! Very little. I'll DD it and share the wealth :)

 

Thanks Grumpy!

 

I aslo want you to know I'm using one of the D. Vizard Books to step by step check and build this sbc. Just to let you know that your MEGA DATA posts are not in vane! The only thing I question in the book is the break in procedure, drive it easily for xxxx miles. This is old school rule of thumb right? Shouldn't I do the cam break-in once started, then the on off throttle to seat the rings?

 

Just wondering.

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keep the engine above 2500rpm and below about 5000rpm for the first 50 miles or for 2 hours, while you test drive and look for leaks, overheating ETC. remember to accellerate briskly up to 5000rpm, (no thats not meant as your to race the car or speed shift) and change the load on the engine frequently to let the rings seat, mostly to allow parts to lap in and the clearances to stabilize ,then change the oil and filter,to remove the crud that accumulates in the oil durring the break-in procedure, then drive it like youll use it!

if it was assembled correctly thats all thats necessary

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How many of you killers have blown the bottom end out of a 2 bolt block? I am sure 99% of you guys really need a 4 bolt block. Oh yea, that 4 bolt block makes you so much faster.
Are you going to be attending the SEZ race? If you are can I get a car length and the leave( or break) LOL. Jerry
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Cam is 160, I am guessing I could sell mine for 50-60 bucks? Wife says she doesn't care as long as it doesn't make the car louder? So the only question is will the springs on the EDDY heads I have be ok with this cam? I'll see if I can find a deal on it somewhere.

 

Yes, Grumpy is the engine (and now garage) master...

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Looking further into it, Cam and Kit is 350! (Kit = Lifters,Springs,Retainers,Seals) Lifters alone are $77 and the Cam alone is 153. ish. So if if the springs in my edelbrock heads are ok ( are they? )to run with this cam, I'll just need the Lifters for a total of $230. It looks like I'd have a hard time selling the cam. (Iv'e posted the pistons I have twice! on Ebay w/ no bids, cheap too!)

 

The reason I am going through all this angst (sp?) is that I've spent a decent chunk, (not a ton) on this build, took all the (new in box from another project not finished) edelbrock parts as a deal, because I saw it as one and figured that I could just run with it. I guess my decision here is to listen to good advise and spend more $$ now and have the better torque curve and more HP, or run with what I have and be satisfied. I honestly think that I'll be happy with the parts I have for quite some time. Even once the thing is tuned up and running perfectly, I still have the interior, paint and all that jive to get finished. By the time I have all that sorted, it will probably be time to build another motor.

 

Do I sound like a girl here or what? Geesh!

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  • 2 weeks later...

got the heads on yesterday! SLOW going but I don't want to mess anything up. As for the head gaskets I used felpro. They were blue w/ metal rings around the cyl walls only. I didn't really gather from the Felpro instructions OR mr. vizzards book on whether I should have used sealer or not. The hinted towards not but I'd like to be sure. I did use a bit where the block surface was a bit washed out by coolant flow / rust.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Next up is checking pushrod length, lots of reading to do but In only have one lenth of rod, which came w/ the motor. I'll see how close they are and go from there.

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It's getting there! Shortblock couple of weekends ago before I pressed on the HB. Heads are on it now. Need to check the valve train geometry still, been sick the last two weekends so not much going on. Just thought I'd post this up like I said I would. :) Don't mind the mess, I keep the stuff that needs to be CLEAN! (I only have a two car w/ one in it)

 

c4e8dc81.jpg

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