JTR engine mount questions?

[nazar]

I just recieved my prothanes, man they look stiff, hopefully they wont be too stiff.

 

I am going to fab some sort of support on the chassis for the stock mount, it just scares me knowing the whole engine is gonna sit on that hump that is welded to the chassis

[Guest SouthGaZX]

When you have so much ponypower that you have to use chains and or other various braces/anchors to keep the engine from hopping out the bay and playing hopscotch on the garage floor... thats when it scares me... 350-400 hp on hellaciously welded heavy gauge steel... you dont have many worries lol... if u looked at the condition of the frame rails some ppl have the v-8s mounted to.. you'd be more worried i believe

[HarrisonTX]

In the JTR book, it talks about stackin plates for clearence if your not going to use theres? Who as needed to "stack to desired hieght" and who has just used the JTR spacers?

[spdsk8r]

I fabricated mine. This is in a ZX, but I used the same concept without the setback plates.

[dcd3326]

Hello  noticed no one answered the question about only One bolt per side holding this engine. Seems a bit light with the torque that will be applied. I assume it has been tried and verified to hold up ?  I'm thinking A GM style where a bolt goes through the mount and then is in sheer having far more strength.

 Just asking.

Dean

[jhm]

Yes, one bolt on each side to mount the engine when using the stock front crossmember.  This should be the case for any engine swap that uses the stock crossmember. (There are aftermarket crossmember that may have a different bolt configuration.)

[Michael]

My particular situation has firewall setback.  The engine (a big block) is mounted to fabricated steel boxed protuberances welded to the frame rails, rather than to the K-member.  However, the engine mounting scheme is the same.  The mounts themselves are rubberized pieces that look like a pack of playing cards.  On the inboard side, facing the engine, there are three bolts, going to the block.  I believe that these are 3/8"-16.  On the outboard side, going to the frame rails, there is a single bolt, 1/2"-13.  

 

As the engine torques-over, the two 1/2"-13 bolts - one on each side - are going to be loaded in tension or compression.  They're not going to be sheared or twisted.  I can't imagine how these bolts could possibly fail.  If anything fails, it will either the the rubberized motor-mounts, or perhaps the cast-iron block itself.

[Twisted46]

Your going to regret doing poly mounts at both locations, I have "cheap" rubber mounts on my JTR swapped race car. The transmission and motor mounting from JTR has been rock solid. I really think you need to follow the best instruction I've seen and read that book 3-5 times then get back in to things. This forum has been great to me with my swap when questions the book does not cover come up. Also I think everyone needs to understand that the JTR kit is only a starting point. You should not expect it to drop in and go. They give you a great canvas to paint on and that is why you paid hundreds and not thousands for that kit.