Guest zeh ex Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 Yeah sorry for the mispellings I was in a rush (teacher doesnt like it when your on the internet!). I found this site that has 280zx fiberglass body panels think they are worth the money? And as for the L28ET option well I never found one. And I never found a coilover kit for my car I just ordered the Tokico springs from MSA and will buy the non adjustable Tokico shocks son after. For Strut bars should I go with the MSA ones? Heres the fiberglass site check it out... www.showcars-bodypart.com/280zx.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypertek Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 its a given that anything can drift, its just not gonna be on a competitive level as something in say d1 unless you build the crap out of the car *stiffer suspension/chassis, brakes/tires, etc* , and of course try to gain more steering angle out of the steering rack. Theres a 280zx drifting in the japanese dvd DriftMax, as scene in the trailer.. http://www.driftmax.com/ I wonder what they say about it. But it does look cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 is there a way to get more steering angle on a rack and pinion on my 79 280zx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 anything will drift , just some cars seem to do it easier , smoother and with less aggrevated initiation.... i think the zx drifts fine, theres a guy that comes out to our u.s.drift events with one and does well with little done to it... id say the lsd is critical, some basic suspension mods are good also, i helped to build a z31 drift car for a friend, we ran into suspension travel issues using the tokico illumina kit he bought, as well as overheating nearly after every run...not alot of air flow threw those cars...id have to sat in order of drift potential id rate the z cars as fallows on a stock car heres how i rate them #5 z31 "the squater, transfers weight to rear and gets weird rear camber in the process, not alot of ummmmph , no lsd in early cars.. #4 s130 , turbo form had enuff power to do almost anything, no lsd.. n/a car still gets sideways, just woulnt keep the tires on boil like the turbo #3 z32 nice car with out hicas, turbo has good power kinda porky, nearly impossible to drift hicas car.... #2 s30 light and tossable, good torque,that keeps the 14 stock wheels on fire, very easily controled in a slide, carb cars vapor locked when you beat the sheit out of them , 180 diff explodes after too long...no lsd #1 z33, i drifted one of these at teh tirerack test course in southbend, omfg....for a base model it rocked, tires on fire in 3rd gear, controls nice with throttle inputs, decent steering angle, we had every light on the dash on, cant kill it......myself , and 2 others pounded this car all day and it never skipped a beat....never over heated, oddly since the bumper looks so restrictive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daren Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 I am not a serious drift type. But I do drift for kicks. S chassis, 13 & 14's are by far the easiest type to build and drift. Information on set up is abundant, parts are readily available, and the chassis is very predictable and provokable. But they are far too common now. I remember the days when no one knew what drifting was.... I plan on building an S30Z one day soon...I hope. Not primarily for drift, but of course I will drift it on occassion. The main draw back of the chassis is the wheel base. A lot of people state that the car has too much snap oversteer. The chassis is flexy, and set up info for drifting is basically non existant. But it can be done. Case in point. I went for quite a few laps with Ryan Hampton in his Falken Tires / Drif Alliance '67 -'69 Camaro. Not the ideal drift car. But the car was awesome!!! It just takes some R&D. I hope to see more Z cars at events. If it's something you want to do, don't let people tell you that it will not do well. Even FC /FD3S are difficult cars to drift. Adapt and over come. What I would do... -Seam weld the hell out of the car. -Custom fab numerous chassis braces -Weld in cage -Fab a power steering rack to fit ... ...I say use maybe FC / FD3S, as extra angle tie rods/rod ends are readily available. -Increase caster settings to help with snap oversteer. -Motor of your choice / strong clutch kit -Of course change out all bushings -2 way r200 clutch type diff. This is just a few things, but you get the idea, add what you think would benefit your style. I hope to see you guys out there! And if you're in Cali, especially the Bay Area, don't forget out our newly built Drift Land Course, formerly Altamont raceway. Irwindale style, with no walls!!! Sessions every thursday night by NCDA.NET!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 MY S30 drift BUILD SO FAR INCLUDES 1. completely down to metal chassis, frame welding, 10pt cage, front and rear strut brace, thicker floor pans, and hd floor frames, thicker front frame rails, fuel cell, removed all sound deadening, painted 2. modified adjustable stop steering rack, for crazy angle 3. short stroke coilovers cut 40mm all around, 8k front 6k rear springs custom valved dampers 8way adjustable, adjustable endlink sways, new bushings threw the car.neg camber bump steer spacers in works and msa upper mounts 4. nismo gt lsd in r200 w/3.9 gear ,centerforce df clutch, 4 speed and a 5 spd spare. wanna see witch i like better 5. 280zxt swap, intercooler, bov, 2.5 to 3 dwn pipe, 3 in exhaust no muffler, boost controler, hi pressure holly fuel pump, and raising rate fpr, t3/t4 hybrid turbo, msa 4row radiator.cold air intake. oil cooler,injectors,sic, keeping it easy and old school is half the fun..running 12psi boost always, 6. corbeau forza seats, nismo wheel,autometer gages, g force belts, new interior xhatch vinal, carpet.perfect interior 7. 131collision is putting a candy blue paint job in it "close to the rx-8 winning blue"and some crome graffix "undecided on graffics still", i want some 16+8 ssr longchamp xr4 wheels, but i have sorced a set of kaiser race wheels, still need more wheels, the zxt nazi wheels will work for local events to burn up tires but need serious rubber for serious events. 8. braided brake lines, 4runner front cal, drilled brake rotors, carbon met pads, rear carbon met shoes, braided lines, hydraulic parking brake. ummm im sure i left some stuff out...ohhhh msa type 3 front bumper... sure theres more i left out but in a nut shell.... i plan on developing this at local u.s.drift and beaverun events this season, and am in a rush to get it sorted for the formula d qualifier in new jersey.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrellBuddy321 Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Wait so how would you get more steering angle on an s130? Is there different tie rods to get for the rack and pinion setup? I WANT STEERING ANLGE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Im not so sure on the 280zx rack i havent opened one up. there are a few ways to do it. Alot of drift guys buy longer tie rods and things that give them alot of toe out, witch makes the car "in my opinion" a bit twitchy. the old fashon way would be to get a vw rack "alot of different sizes are made, and it could be easily adapted to pretty much any car with a bit of machine shop work. what i did was much different, i disassembled the rack, and had the ends of it where the stops sit machined to let the rack move in farther before hitting the stops, you can actually go up to 3/4 inch before the rack runs out of teeth, this way the rack is the same overall length it just can travel farther, this way it adds no excessive toe out and the car remains very stable, and not darty during turn in..my rack mods added 1/2 further travel to each side, as far as how much angle has changed it is very noticable to the eye, but i havent thrown a gage on it yet to mesure the exact change..but in drifting angle is the difference in looping the car and maintaining control. and getting retarded sideways in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 mine is adjustable so if you add wider wheels you can adjust to stop 1/4 inch before you rub the tire on somthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun280zx81 Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantaz Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 hmmmm 2 out of the 3 drifting ZX's ive seen are 2+2s?? longer wheel base maybe helps with control?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 It definately changed the way you precive angle changes. The closer you are to the rear wheels the more exaggerated the angel changes feel. A longer wheelbase will make it more predictable, but you'll also loose tossability. A short wheelbase, though hard to maintain a drift with, can be iniated very easily. ALL drifting comes down to prefference. You can drift a bone stock 280ZX, though it's feel won't be very preferrable to anyone. All these drift threads kinda tick me off, because it always looks as though so many people don't really understand anything about drifting (and it's usually the people asking questions). Drifting isn't about having that perfect setup. Drifting isn't about having the perfect car. It's about having the right car/feel to suite your style. The better you are the more versetile you'll be and be able to drive a large variety of cars. And the better you get the more you'll know with regards to how you want your car to feel. I say just change the bushings, maybe buy some stiffer rear springs to reduce the squat, then go out there and get time under your belt. The KA24DET motor would be a bad choice imo. The motor never came with a turbo, and it's not a super low copression motor anyways. So you're either going with low boost or you're rebuilding the motor. You might as well just go with a SR20 since a KA24DET would be illegal anyways. There's mount kits readily availble for the SR20 wich would make the whole process a lot easier. And personaly, I wich my stock L28ET had the stock power of the SR20 (though I should be able to get mine up to 300hp easily enough once I've got the money). There's a lot of motor options out there, and you don't need a ton of power for drifting. Sure the pro cars have huge HP, but that's because they're pro, what else do you expect? They're going for those huge white clouds while they get sideways because that helps them win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProjectSR20 Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 I've got to disagree a little Gollum. I think the KA24 DE-T would be a good motor. Well maybe not, depends on what he wants for power. It is just written off too fast. I know I was set on the SR20, hence the screen name. But after spending time over on http://www.ka-t.org I have since changed my philosophy. There are plenty of people over there that are running in the 400-500 hp range with stock compression and a good number of them are still on stock internals. What's funny and I have seen proved multiple times over there with numerous dyno's is if you take all the stock parts off an SR and swap it to the KA, the KA will make more power. The SR from what I have seen could potentially have a higher max power output due to the design of the heads, but thats not till you are pushing over 500 whp. And for alot of people 300-400 for a Z is plenty. The aftermarket for the KA is exploding too. There is some really cool stuff people are working on for KA's only. Then there is the price difference between the two motors. For what it costs to get an SR shipped and make sure you have all the required stuff like MAF and ignitor that yards love to leave out or charge you extra for, you could have a reliable 300 hp KA with more torque. And at that point the SR would still be bone stock. The other nice benefit of the KA is the increased displacement over the SR, which equates to a broader torque band. Check out the dyno pulls of the average stock internalled KA running a T3/T4 on stock internals at 12-15 psi and your mind might change. I am not trying to start any kind of flame war here at all, or what motor is better so I appologize if I offended you. I just hate to see the KA put down. As for your points on drifting, I could not agree more. Too many people are hung up on having the perfect car, when this really is only a small part of what makes a good drifter. Mostly its just plain old seat time. To the OP: I can guarantee you that if you start off practicing with a car that is not set up ideally or even marginally good, and switch to something more geared towards that venue, you will probably kick some a**. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 very true about driver being main part of drifting, well to an extent.. i have been drifting 12 years now, I have been drifting an ae86 for the last 5 years, being an event director for u.s.drift i am not able to compete at my own events, but in the past 3 years have been going to other events to compete, the ae86 is a great car, they are in my opinion "what drifting should feel like" a car where inputs matter so much, bad inputs = bad drifting. Yet, I recently switched to a 240z turbo, i have done alot of work to be able to keep up on a professional level. First time I had the car out was at Mid-ohio east coast Formula D PRO AM series qualifier, in witch the top 8 drivers were able to go to formula d qualifier in nevada" having never drifted the car i ended up making the cut and advancing to the formula d qualifier.. Although the 240z i have made drifts very well, and is a blast to drive, and kicks ass on a regional level, the car needs much more development and tweeking to keep up on a professional level. this means using everything avalible to you to make the car better, if everyone in formula d drifted the same car it would even the field, making it soley a drivers sport, but that isnt going to happen. Your going up against factory backed teams, big money sponsors..so you do what you have to do to survive in the big kids pool... on the other hand on a local level, just getting a car out and drifting it is always fun, and teaches alot about car control, I am in agreeance that anything will drift, but you have to work a bit harder with certin cars.. driver skill is truely the best , most needed component in any motorsport, but when you go against the big time players, thats when setting up the car becomes really important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 project - hope I didn't hurt your feelings too bad, because I actually agree with you. The KA is a great flatform. BUT, our person with quesiton doesn't sound like the person that will be installing their own turbo system, let alone fabbing up their own engine mounts (no offense to this person). The KA is a very DIY type install, and the SR is drop in ready with the mount kits. It's like choosing a 5.0 ford over a 350 chevy. I might like the ford better, but it's more than twice the work getting it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 project - hope I didn't hurt your feelings too bad, because I actually agree with you. The KA is a great flatform. BUT, our person with quesiton doesn't sound like the person that will be installing their own turbo system, let alone fabbing up their own engine mounts (no offense to this person). The KA is a very DIY type install, and the SR is drop in ready with the mount kits. It's like choosing a 5.0 ford over a 350 chevy. I might like the ford better, but it's more than twice the work getting it in. Let me tell ya. I'm still trying to figure out everything with my KA swap. Everything kinda stops up here when winter hits . I still don't know what I'm going to do with the tranny, don't want to use the stock KA auto trans. trying to see if I can mount the old L28 5speed (working with what I have), and whether to leave the R180 diff in there or swap it with the R200 I have in the parts car. Engine location and so on. I don't recall anyone doing a KA swap besides me and I haven't made any real progress. Wish there was someone that I can use as a refference with for this stuff. I agree with ProjectSR20. the KA block is pretty strong, its just that the engine wasn't engineered with FI in mind. Its considered to be stronger than the SR block (KA-T.org, source), its just the SR20DET has less compression, thus can handle more air volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProjectSR20 Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 Nope, no hurt feelings here, so don't worry. Just throwing stuff out there in the interest of keeping option open. I agree that it might be over the head of the OP, but with the help that is available from everyone here it could be a doable swap for alot of people. One interesting thing that I learned from reading some posts by Alex at Vildini is that his SR20 engine cradle works just the same with the KA. It seems that the KA and SR share alot of similarities such as motor mounts, manifolds and so on. But yeah, you are correct that turboing a n/a motor is not for the faint of heart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 Nope, no hurt feelings here, so don't worry. Just throwing stuff out there in the interest of keeping option open. I agree that it might be over the head of the OP, but with the help that is available from everyone here it could be a doable swap for alot of people. One interesting thing that I learned from reading some posts by Alex at Vildini is that his SR20 engine cradle works just the same with the KA. It seems that the KA and SR share alot of similarities such as motor mounts, manifolds and so on. But yeah, you are correct that turboing a n/a motor is not for the faint of heart. Hmm. Maybe I should read some of his old posts on the engine mount designs. Now my problem is mounting the L28 5 speed to the KA block and having the clutch measurements right. I know the KA trans to the L28 block has been done, but not the other way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 is there any links for ka trans to L series block info, i tried searching but its pretty vaig. i can get a 240sx s13 with no engine and i have a l28/e88 just sitting around, might be fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Yeah I know I can't find it either. From my understanding, you have to fab up a adapter plate. And then adjust something(?) on the input shaft side of the trans, for the throwout bearing or clutch. So for me. I guessing I'm going to have to grind the bell housing to get the distences right, instead of making a adapter plate (spaces the 2). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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