Z-TARD Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I've been using this stuff for a while now on my gun projects. http://www.lauerweaponry.com/duracoatcolors.cfm?colortype=stock&Category=220 Over time it has proven to be an EXTREMELY durable finish. Naturally, I've been considering this stuff for painting my 240Z. Depending on the amount of hardener added to it, it will vary from a flat primer like finish all the way to semi gloss. I've only sprayed it with an airbrush so far, but I think an automotive type spray gun would work just as well. This stuff coats very well, and is very difficult to make it run. Dries to the touch in about an hour, and reaches full cure in a week or two depending on heat, and the amount of hardener. Clear coats are also available. Pricing seems pretty reasonable at $90 for 32 ounces. I'll probably leave mine as a satin finish, I like the color called "parker", designed to emulate the look of parkerized finishes on military rifles. It's also available in brighter colors too: http://www.lauerweaponry.com/duracoatcolors.cfm?&colortype=electric&Category=230 My only concern is it's compatibility with the original datsun paint, and if spraying it over this finish will cause it to peel, etc. I'll try out some on a small test area and let you guys know how it works. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted February 5, 2006 Author Share Posted February 5, 2006 I painted a small 6x6 inch square on the rear fender today, covering an area where some primer is blended into the original finish. So far, no adverse reaction to either the primer or the original paint. This stuff should make for an awesome satin finish on cars. Some FAQ from the DuraCoat website: As an average gun owner, can I properly apply DuraCoat products without training? Absolutely! DuraCoat is extremely easy to apply. Anyone can do it. DuraCoat was designed for the average gun owner. Preheating, baking and blasting are not required. Expensive, space consuming equipment is not needed. Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to application. If you don't have access to an airbrush, HVLP spray gun or conventional spray gun, our EZ Airbrush (#1SAB) is all the equipment needed and sells for less than $25.00. How durable is DuraCoat? DuraCoat is permanent. With normal use, a firearm finished with DuraCoat will last several lifetimes. What is DuraCoat? DuraCoat is a two part chemical coating. Unlike other firearm finishes, DuraCoat was created specifically for firearms. Other firearm finishes are "spin-off's" from other industries. Is DuraCoat Teflon based? No. Teflon is a lubricating coating which is great for internals, but will not wear as well as DuraCoat on the exterior surface of a firearm. DuraCoat's combination of elasticity and hardness creates a finish impervious to impact, scratching and the elements. Some users say DuraCoat displays some lubricating qualities, but this phenomenon was never intended when DuraCoat was created. How do I apply DuraCoat? DuraCoat can be applied by airbrush, conventional spray gun, or HVLP spray gun. Can DuraCoat be brushed on? No, absolutely not. DuraCoat is for spray application only. Do I need a special degreaser? Yes. Some degreasers, especially those used in the automotive industry, can leave a residue. This residue will form a barrier between the surface and DuraCoat causing a coating failure. We manufacture TruStrip degreaser solely for the firearms industry. TruStrip is capable of cleaning the contaminates commonly found on and in firearms and will not leave a residue. Do I need a special solvent to clean my airbrush or spray gun? Lacquer thinner will work, but clean your equipment with DuraCoat reducer occasionally. This will keep your airbrush or spray gun in top working condition. Is reducing DuraCoat required? Depending on your spray equipment, spray technique, climate and environment your DuraCoat may or may not need reducing. If your DuraCoat does not lay down smooth on the surface of your firearm, it most likely needs to be reduced. Always have some DuraCoat Reducer on hand as it may be required on given days due to weather conditions. DuraCoat Retarder Reducer cures problems normally occurring in high humidity weather. One of these high humidity problems called "blushing" makes the DuraCoat appear cloudy. Another called "dry spray" occurs when some of the DuraCoat dries before it reaches the firearm and causes a rough or dusty surface. Can I blend DuraCoat colors together? Yes. All DuraCoat colors can be intermixed. With a handful of stock DuraCoat colors, you can create an infinite number of colors by blending them. When is DuraCoat fully cured? DuraCoat is dry to the touch in 20 minutes, can be handled in 1 hour and is ready for use overnight. Although DuraCoat will gain most of its final hardness, elasticity and chemical resistance over a 2-3 week period, time will continue to enhance DuraCoat's characteristics over a lifetime. DuraCoat, like fine wine, gets better with age. As we say, "DuraCoat wears in, not out." I hunt along saltwater. Will DuraCoat withstand the salty environment? Certainly. DuraCoat is well suited for salty environments. One of DuraCoat's attributes is its extreme ability to resist salt corrosion. A firearm coated with DuraCoat simply will not rust...EVER! What is the shelf life of DuraCoat? The shelf life of DuraCoat is 12-18 months if properly sealed and stored in a cool, dark place. The shelf life of DuraCoat hardener is 6 months, but can be extended by sealing it in a zip lock bag and placing it in a refrigerator. How easy is DuraCoat removed? Not easy at all. The elastic nature of DuraCoat resists blasting. A qualified individual, with the proper blast media, can safely remove DuraCoat without damaging the surface of the firearm. Be careful. In most cases, we recommend lightly blasting the surface, being cautious not to remove any DuraCoat. Just "beat up" the DuraCoat giving it "tooth" so your new application of DuraCoat has something to adhere to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj paul Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted February 6, 2006 Author Share Posted February 6, 2006 pics! Here is the test spot after a quick once over with some 2000 grit sandpaper. I used some 400 on the upper left corner, which was able to get into the duracoat a little, but not much. The 2000 grit just knocks the lint and dirt off of it, and thats about it. This is just one coat, applied with an airbrush. It can't be very thick, but I would be comfortable using only one coat of this stuff as it is nearly indestructible. After a day of curing, there is no sign of any kind of reaction with the base paint, and the adhesion seems to be good as well. I tried peeling some of it up on the edges with a fingernail and got nothin. I'm torn between this and the $50 Rustoleum/roller paint job. The DuraCoat will end up costing about $200 for materials, and will have to be sprayed. The Rustoleum will cost a lot less, but although it is durable, it will be nowhere near as durable as the DuraCoat. The DuraCoat will also be a little more original I think. So far I don't know of anyone who has used this stuff on a car. Not too many SOCOM Black or Parkerized Z's running around. I'll have to think about this some more before I finally decide which paint to use, either way is probably better than an el cheapo Earl Shieb or Makko job. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 the link you showed has 4oz for 17 bucks, That's quite pricey compared to normal paint. A quart of ppg usually runs about 30 bucks. and that's 32oz. However if you have a source to obtain it in bulk cheaper, It does sound interesting. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj paul Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 if you have the materials and resources to do it. i say go for it! im all for original. im going to try the roller method personally but thats just because i dont want to spray. it looks like this stuff would be a great alternative to wheel well undercoating for show cars or people who want to show off their brakes or something because it looks good and its so durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deMideon Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Hmmm sounds like it will be very interesting! Keep us up to date with the results! I love the look of a satin finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workinprogress Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Will this bond properly to fiberglass and/or body filler? Or is this just for bare metal? I would be worried about it being flexible enough and not cracking on fiberglass. Any news on bulk pricing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted February 7, 2006 Author Share Posted February 7, 2006 Will this bond properly to fiberglass and/or body filler? Or is this just for bare metal? I would be worried about it being flexible enough and not cracking on fiberglass. Any news on bulk pricing? It's been my experience so far that this stuff will bond very aggresively to just about anything that isn't covered in grease. I got some on my watch band a few months ago, when I get bored I scratch at it to see if it will ever come off. So far, nadda. I wouldn't worry too much about fiberglass, this stuff goes on thin enough that it remains very flexible. A large part of it's strength is due to its elasticity. Because it is so thin though, it may not offer much impact resistance on a car body. It probably wont end up much harder that the material that it is sprayed on top of. Probably better to apply this stuff over an already painted car than over a relatively soft layer of primer. As far as pricing, there are only a few places I've found that carry it, and none of them have a significant price advantage over buying it directly from the manufacturer. $90 for 32 ounces is about as good as I could find. Out of curiosity, how many ounces of paint are nrmally required to paint a small car like a Z? I was figuring on buying two of the 32 ounce kits, but my guesstimation is only that, a guess. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Some-Guy Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 wow thats actualy kinda cool I wonder how it'll stand up on a car tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted February 7, 2006 Author Share Posted February 7, 2006 I was able to dig up some test results for this stuff: http://www.jimsgunsupply.com/index2.html Advantages: Aesthetically pleasing appearance. Ideal for the firearms industry, with resistance to most lubricants, cutting oils, and bore solvents. Full gloss range available from flat to high gloss. Unlimited color range. Excellent hardness and adhesion. Excellent impact, mar, and abrasion resistance. Excellent water and chemical resistance. Performance: Conical Mandrel Passes 1/8†mandrel. Direct impact resistance 100 in. lb. Reverse impact resistance 80 in. lb. Salt Spray test 300 hrs. Pencil hardness H to 2H. Characteristics: Volume solids 21.0 to 32.5 +/- 1%. Film thickness can be varied from .25 to 1.5 mils dry. Flash point 37 to 65 F Pensky-Martins Closed Cup. Drying: To Touch: 20 min. To Handle: 60 min. To Pack: Overnight. Force Dry: 30 min. at 180 F. 1 hr. at 108 F. I have no idea what the results of these tests mean, but maybe someone with more knowledge than me can chime in here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Dreamer Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 That looks GREAT! But what would it cost to paint a complete Z? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 only 300 hours of salt spray durability? Zero Rust has over 2000 I was thinking about doing my window trim with this stuff maybe but then again maybe not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted February 13, 2006 Author Share Posted February 13, 2006 only 300 hours of salt spray durability? Zero Rust has over 2000 I was thinking about doing my window trim with this stuff maybe but then again maybe not. The original Datsun chrome probably would not surpass more than about 200 hours salt spray test. Fords current standard for chrome plating calls for 240 hour salt spray: http://www.pfonline.com/articles/059801.html Comparing it to ZeroRust is kind of an unfair comparrison because Zero Rust is designed soley as a rust preventative. I'm sure it's durability would be compromised in many other ways such as impact, abrasion, sunlight, etc. DuraCoat seems to be the best stuff I've seen so far for all around toughness and ease of application. What really sold me on this stuff was seeing how well it holds up on a .45 pistol. I built my latest gun to have very close tolerances between the slide and frame, after painting with DuraCoat there is absolutely no play at all between the two. That means that every round fired will cause the paint on both the slide and frame assemblies to grind against each other. I do have some oil in there, but not a lot, and after several hundred rounds there is no discernable wear in the paint on the rail portions of the slide and frame. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 hmm...In that case maybe I need to get a 9.00 harbor freight airbrush and get some of this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Mike, what ever happened to this project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Odd.... A friend of mine called me ealier today and asked me if I wanted to add the Duracoat line to the powdercoating.. he has some old WW2 stuff he wanted done.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ansel Marrow Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 If you used it on your z, there would be no way of going back. I assume its really chip-resistant? I wonder if you could get a high gloss, then clearcoat it for a nice deep color? Im interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 If your going to clearcoat it then what would be the point? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ansel Marrow Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Ah, I see. I just like the idea of an impenetrable clear coat, because no one wants to spend $1k+ on a nice paint job and have it get chipped by rocks etc. This seems like a good alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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