Guest Kaz Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 y'all are making it look hard...here is what I got...it was like 95% humidity and I had to keep the garage door open and stuff was all getting in the paint... plus I was told that I had to park my car outside that night to give up the garage to the 944 like 2 hours from when I just started the hood...it was still very sticky...I was going at it with a hair-dryer...lol this is after 1 coat on bare metal before sanding or anything... That looks pretty much the same as mine, but as soon as I started seriously wetsanding mine, I was getting down to bare metal in some places, and still had uneven paint in others... so I'm going to strip it down completely (bought a DA, but now have to buy a compressor powerful enough to run it, lol) and I'll try again with a paint gun... the roller just didn't work too well... allowed for a lot of excess paint on the edges... =( I'll try working with the gun in the future... =) Costco had a nice gun kit available so I picked that up... two normal paint guns (one normal size, one smaller) and two HVLP guns (one normal size, one smaller detail size) with all the accessories to attach it to a system for $80... so I picked that up and I'll be giving that a try in the near future... we'll see how that goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihatejoefitz Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 y'all are making it look hard...here is what I got...it was like 95% humidity and I had to keep the garage door open and stuff was all getting in the paint... plus I was told that I had to park my car outside that night to give up the garage to the 944 like 2 hours from when I just started the hood...it was still very sticky...I was going at it with a hair-dryer...lol this is after 1 coat on bare metal before sanding or anything... what ratio did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 I just thinned it until I felt good about it...lol just like the guy n the moparts website...lol don't try to use something that someone else used...different parts of the country(altitude,humidity, etc...) change what you need. I used about..I just made it almost as thin as water...so it would drip off the end of a screwdriver to where you could tell it was a little thicker than water...just if there was a unit of measure for viscosity...hmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 I am going to strip mine back down to bare metal and paint it from there... KAZ...did you do two coats before you wetsanded? that is what the guy on the moparts forum said to do. Someone should tell them about our sucesses/failures with this stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PapaCreech Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 On the test panles im doing ive been playin with viscosity out of my gun(ergo the mixture) and (seconds out of my viscosity cup seem sto lay the ebst of both worlds with minimum peel in it but a littl ethinner(7seconds or so) and damn near looks perfect. This is on flat laying sheet so who knows how itll look on the car when i get done ith it(prolly goin to have to go thinner, and lighter on the coat), month or two from now i hope ill post the album or a link to such so you guys can see how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldestzguy Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 Maybe we all should remember that shine quality is developed by microscopic leveling of any surface whether it be metal parts being polished by a machine or a paint job, etc. This microscopic leveling causes the reflective qualities. Obviously the more you can level initially (rolling, etc.) or in the earlier stages, the less work you have to do later at the very (shiny) end. However, the point is; the finer you sand the final surface, the more shine you have. Automotive paint products are trying to do this and still enable the paint shop owner to make a profit by trying to eliminate a lot of the finish work, hence the single stage trying to be glossy just with spraying. Spraying clear on a paint finish makes it shiny also and again helps you avoid a lot of finish work, but nothing BEATS finishing it out to your own level of glossiness which is theoritically endless. I guess the NASA guys could really polish something that would blind you. Alas, the more you do, the better it is, as long as you don't polish through the medium itself. You could do it to a rock. They call it jewelry. This mopar guy is fabulous, and if he wanted too; he could probably make a show quality job out of polishing cowsh t on a car if he could make it stick to the car. He said he has more time than money, which is a problem most of us share. This is also the exact opposite of the problems an automotive paint shop owner has as far as profitability in concerned. I guess, the reason this method might not become really popular is the limited amount of colors available. I am not sure I would want a specialty hybrid Z to be the same color as my grandmother's metal lawn furniture. However, I just bought a short school bus to convert to a weekender, and you can believe I will use this method to paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 now wet sand and buff the crap out of those hoods! the paint looks like it was applied evenly.. no to get rid of that orange peel looking finish from the roller.. with lots of sanding it will have a uniform shine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 Having said that OldestZGuy... The painted hoods look about the quality of a Macco $250.00 job. But I'm sure the quality of rust cover/prevention is alot higher. And some more quality sanding time those hoods could be realy nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 there is NO sanding time on my hood...I just scruffed the paint up and rolled over it...just to see how it would do. I have stripped the left front fender and applied one thin coat... it seems to be doing very good...and thinning it ALOT more helps...like 35%...or more...and doing very thin coats... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 I just went out into the garage and tried the fingernail test on my fender with gloss black professional rustoleum and I have one thin coat on there...I thinned it out about 35-40% low odor mineral spirits and it is ROCK SOLID!!! I am now going to strip the whole car and begin the process of painting the whole thing!!! it is more scratch resistant than the stock paint!!! I just did a thin coat in about 55 degree weather and left it with a light on the fender for a few days without touching it and then I let it sit another few days...ROCK SOLID!!! nothing else like it!!! I am really excited that this is going to work!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U.P. Z Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 I have to say, I'm pretty impressed with the results. Great way to go for the guy on a budget that wants to paint his car in his own garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Minkee Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 Jesus, I'm on such a tight budget on my Z car and this thread has really given me so much hope on finishing my car. I figured if I just prep the body enough and get it smooth it should be okay. I've never used a spray gun before, but I take it that its worth it? I'm not unfamiliar with spray paint thanks to my old days..but I'm sure it would take a little getting used to right? As far as purchasing a gun, and a compressor is it worth it? I figured I don't have much to lose with my Z car right now, so why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Some-Guy Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 Iam going to do it iam 100% sold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Some-Guy Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 wait sec couldnt you spray on the tremclad if you thin it enough?? why the hell not i might try that instead probly faster than rolling it on.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 it is probably faster to spray it but the roller method is better for us that can't spray paint...I don't have an air compressor or any experience with any air tool except a few minutes with a die grinder...so this is turning out pretty good. I am thinking of painting my Z the petty colors with light blue and then a rich orange stripe down the middle...I think that would look awesome on a Z!!! I saw a pic of a Z painted those colors and it looks really good. I like really black but maybe it is time for a change... *edit* here is the pic of the Z I was talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Con Brio Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 I used Tremclad's gloss black to paint my engine compartment. First I applied "Rust check" primer, then 4 coats of the Tremclad. It cost me less than $50. And I sprayed it over the coarse of 3 days with no sanding in between coats. I tried to post a pic but the file is to large. I'll put it in my photo gallery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U.P. Z Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 I tried to post a pic but the file is to large. I'll put it in my photo gallery. Off Topic! http://www.irfanview.com/ This is a great little free program for picture editing. Download and then go to image, resize and then enter a new picture size. Say Your picture is 1280 by 960, you can just enter 640 and the next # will automatically adjust keeping the aspect ratio correct. Make them any size you want. Sorry if this post is out of place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 thanks for that link...that is a very useful program... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
materchan Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 i was messing around with mixes of thinner, and i forget which one worked, but it came out quite glossy and smooth, lots of bubbles, but they blew away, and this was in about %90 humidity 60 degrees out, when spring rolls around and there is better weather i will experemnt more. i could see this actually working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingnutthehutt Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 The main thing is, as Oldestzguy said, with any paintwork, 90% of the final product, if not more, is dependent on your bodywork. You have to smooth out those blemishes, scratches, dings, and rust repair areas with spot putty. It's not that expensive, and it will make all your sanding, painting, sanding, painting, sanding, buffing worthwhile. A Maaco paint job isn't that bad for a street going paint job. They just don't do any prepwork. If you did all the prep, and had your body 110% perfect, it'd be $250 well spent in my book. I spent part of today at the Good Guys "Get Together" in Pleasanton. I can't tell you how many cars with "pretty" paint jobs that I pointed out the poor bodywork in to my girlfriend. By the end of the day, she could point fingers with the best of 'em. (and tell the difference between '55, '56, and '57 Chevy's. But I digress.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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