Cable Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Michael... I have spoken with two people that have a competition engineering cages that were designed just for the first gen Z. In both accounts the cage fit great and it came with gussets to give the cage strenght. Darth Vader As for Competition Engineering' date=' I had askedthem before if they had anything I could use for the Z and they simply said "no". Hmph! Darth, how much was your Competition Engineering cage? Any part numbers? Owen [/quote'] I called Competition Engineering's Tech dept and they said they don't make them for the Z either. I called (203) 458-0542 Tech number. If someone has a part number for the kit, it would help when I call them again. Thanks guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drftn280zxt Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 Okay I have a couple of questions that I couldn't find answers to by searching. #1 HOw exactly do you get a premade cage or even a homemade cage in and out of a car? #2 Now that I think about I'm not sure how Ihave my future cage made. I want my car to be all purpose. Drifting,dragging, AutoX, and even audio comp, and show. Here's the thing I want to design or have designed a roll cage that is removeble fuctional, and can co-exist with a full interior. The cage will if possible be chromed or painted the same colr as the car. Any ideas on how this would be possible. The msa offered roll cages don't seem serious enough for what i'll be doing. Keep in mind to that this will be a daily driver. I not to worried about ride quality though. Hinged or removeable doors bars I think would be a nice thing to integrate into the cage. Also this is for a 280ZX 2+2 Any suggestions would be nice because right now i'm a little clueless on the installation part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted July 19, 2004 Share Posted July 19, 2004 I have a 6 point "cage" that consists of a hoop and four bars running to the front floor boards and back to the "trunk" floor about 1 inch b/4 the black plastic panel. This set up was designed to not be readily apparent from the street. The hoop is located a bid further back than some (just behind the edge of the back shelf) I bolted and welded the front tubes to the floor boards using two 4 inch square pieces of 1/4 inch steel. It all clears the plastic panels. The problem I have is that the driver's side bar is close to the steering wheel and you have to be both skinny and flexible to get in and out. I'll probably address that issue with a smaller wheel or make upl a removeable hub. Other than once or twice a year at the local drag strip, this is not a race care and the "cage" was built specifically to keep my head from being bent should I go off roading and to make it a little more difficult for either myself or my passenger to be wearing someone elses bumper should I ever be "T-boned". Chassis stiffness is just gravy. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drftn280zxt Posted July 20, 2004 Share Posted July 20, 2004 DO you still have carpet in your car? If so how did you get past that hurdle. Like I said the cage would have to co-exist with a full interior. Also I mentioned audio comp. I've designed a full fiberglass/carbonfiber/urethane(not sure which material to use in the future when I have it made) custom stereo in the back of the car. The back seats will be eliminated. Also that doesnt' answer my question of how do you a roll cage in and out of a car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted July 20, 2004 Share Posted July 20, 2004 I think AutoPower makes "Bolt-in" cages that are legal for SOME race sanctioning bodies. Do a search on the web for AutoPower and see what you come up with. I have the AutoPower roll bar in my car that has been converted to a full cage. Mine is welded in. I also added more supports and bracing to it using 1-3/4" DOM tubing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titanium Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 I hate to resurect such an old thread but this was one of the better cage discussions I've seen. I'm looking at getting a 12 point cage right now and I'm wondering if anyone can first hand testify on the quality of the Jegs setup or the Art Morrison one? There are a few ripples in my roof right now but the body is straight as it sits, these early signs of twist sent me to get the subframes put in asap and I need some input on these cages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 During the past 4 years of crawling over JYs, searching for wrecked 240s, I've been impressed by the large number of times I've seen deep side intrusions into the driver's or passenger's side, pushing the door right into someone's lap. A large number of times the z would be folded right behind the seats, in line with the rear door jam. I built a 6 point "roll bar" out of thick wall tubing about 2 inches in diameter. The hoop is positioned about 2 inches behind the back floor, in just about the same location as the storage bins, welded to angle iron, welded to the body and then capped at the floor level with a square pad welded to both the hoop and the floor. The hoop is tied together from right to left with one straight level tube running just above the floor. It is hidden from the side view by the Datsun chrome back side window frame. Two straight bars run from the back of the hoop directly to the floor in the back, just shy of the plastic back panel over the rear lights. These are straight runs that clear the plastic side panels, but are hidden from the rear and the side by the quarter panels. The front door bars are positioned down on the hoop to a point below the door line and extend forward to the floor board/firewall intersect. They are welded to the inside of the door sill, welded to a square piece of .125 steel plate that is bolted and welded to the floor board. With the doors closed, nothing is readily visible from the back or side. However, as the door bars are straight they do impede quick entry or exit. At least for anyone who weighs more than 155#. This setup probably does not meet the criteria of any race sanctioning body, but I do have a stiffer body and some sense of security that there is something other than sheet metal between my butt and the bumper of some SUV. Accidents happen. In my opinion something is far better than nothing as far as cages and roll bars are concerned. g g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titanium Posted May 9, 2005 Share Posted May 9, 2005 Figure I'd help anyone out whos thinking about buying a kit right now. I've called 3 places today 1. Kirk Racing Products - GREAT Customer service some of the best phone service I've ever experianced. When asking about cages they build a standard 6point cages all prenotched no cutting and messing around needed for $610 they can build larger cage to meet your needs and seemed very knowlegeable. 2. Art Morrison - Good customer service, Cost for their 10/"12" point cage was $295 for the Mild Steel and $590 For 4130. I dont know a ton about their quality but it looks like they make a good product. 3. S&W - Standard salespeople nothing special but not bad. 14 Point cage kit $370 and the 12 Point cage for $295 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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