stagefumer11 Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Finialy a detialed topic on installing l28's and forward facing sumps. Right now i have just picked up a complete 280zx for $300 nz (150 american) IM going to rebuild the current l28 and Swap over my l20et turbo gear and run it in my HR30 skyline. Now from what i understand that has been coverd Is all about the sump and oil pick up. From what i know is. The l20et uses the forwards facing sump. Now would i ble able to swap over the sump .(which of corse has oil return for the turbo) Change over the l20et oil pump and dizzy drive. And use the l20et oil pick up. And redrill the dipstick hole. Now this would be perfectly safe and actully doable. From what i read i maybe misunderstand is that i cannot swap the oil pump over to my L turbo one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagefumer11 Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 could be something i could look into. Lucky the l20et has all the gear i need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 I might try this........hmm. I need a "cool" beater! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Oh you will try this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 I am looking for info and found some. Will give this more thought today at work. The 84 Maxima I have right now is automatic with 96k on it. Would make for a nice daily......I want to be able to do this swap for less than $1500! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Clive, That max should have the 4 speeds auto trans already. It should bolt up to the turbo L28 engine without a problem. Drive that sucker down to me so we can do something to it. I already got the turbo motor and everything to swap into the max. What do you think? Sound like fun.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 $1500 should be no problem. You already have all of the parts! The only thing I see you needing will be an exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Clive,That max should have the 4 speeds auto trans already. It should bolt up to the turbo L28 engine without a problem. Drive that sucker down to me so we can do something to it. I already got the turbo motor and everything to swap into the max. What do you think? Sound like fun.. I have an entire 82zxt donor with less than 80k! Thinking if I should swap out the entire 5spd or keep it auto....of course my head is tellin me 5spd...time is telling me auto. I have a trailer for this weekend.....so any ideas?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagefumer11 Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Ive done the same conversion, but in my r30 coupe. Still a front bowl. Whats needed is the front bowl oil pickup to be drilled and taped, and the dip stick needs to be redrilled and the oil passaged blocked... (small welsh plug) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 (edited) I'll try to fix this post since pics were moved. Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine.I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump.So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics.It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough.You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two.A bench grinder around the periphery makes that pesky screen disappear with the quickness. Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan.Now you use the shortest drill you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car.Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time.Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install.Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant.I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver).And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws.Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage.Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves.Feel free to post it anywhere but it's name is "HowlerMonkey flange". Edited January 8, 2017 by HowlerMonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Nice pics Howler, but the issue here in this thread is the oil pickup tube being in the wrong location. It’s got nothing to do with any oil return line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 LOL.......my answer implies to keep the L24e and turbocharge it. Drilling the block to front sump a L28 is a lot more labor intensive than making the pick-up marginally longer and re-routing it. You also must drill a new dipstick tube and, since the oil gallery goes through nearby, I recommend not drilling the fake small boss found on L28 F54 blocks because it is far too easy to hit the oil galley. Far better to drill elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 If you think the pickup it the only modification you have to do...well Howler Monkey just enlightened you. For the life of me I don't know why anybody would redrill the block, it takes maybe 20 minutes to modify the sump's pickup and nothing is altered permanently. The only alteration to the block you MAY want to do it relocate the dipstick, and depending on midsump/frontsump/rearsump that may not be required...not all L20ET's have the same sump arrangement. Some are front, some are mid, some are rear (Skyline, Cedric, ZXT for instance). Dipstick is not that big a deal anyway IMO. If you're sucking down enough to worry about it, you already know how much to add weekly. Either fix it, or just keep adding according to mileage driven. Gallery is very close to dipstick hole. Then again, external oil pickup is an easy mod as well, and gives you a lot more flow to boot. Then sump orientation is irrelevant...you don't use any of the galleries in the block on the front end of the oiling system anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 Here's one that's sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 ....Dipstick is not that big a deal anyway IMO. If you're sucking down enough to worry about it, you already know how much to add weekly. Either fix it, or just keep adding according to mileage driven.... I recall an article in Hot Rod Magazine about installing a sight glass tube on the side of the oil pan to visually check the oil level. The hollow glass tube was about ¼ inch diameter, a couple inches long, and mounted vertically. You could probably construct something similar using clear tubing and two fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagefumer11 Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 I don't see what the problem is with drilling the block, Mine was done the same. Even the dipstick boss was drilled out. Its a easy as task to do. You will find the dipstick blocks the oil gallery. This isn't a problem because its the oil pickup from the other boss. To be safe we tapped a frost plug all the way down the gallery pickup just in case it might of leaked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phyxius Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 I have an already front-sump modified engine for sale in the "another how much is it worth" thread in this forum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.