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240, 60, 80 Z Aerodynamics


EMWHYR0HEN

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Howdy guys,

 

Took some photos yesterday.

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8086

 

The car now has 3 coats of spray putty and we are ready to block it back. The colour will be a deep burgandy red, Grab a good bottle of pinot noir and add some flake to it and thats about the colour. It has taken 3 years to get to this stage. The end seems in sight. I realize that this thread is about aerodynamics, the photos will explain all.

 

 

Cheers, Douglas

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I was looking at a 280ZX at a stop light yesterday. There are there big but subtle changes in the roofline. One is a distinct change in the roofline slope at the top of the hatch, two is a small dip (or inverted lip) at this point as the rear slope starts and finally the negative change of slope at the bottom of the glass to the rear panel. We can't address the last issue but a small spoiler at the top of the glass might be the answer. I'm looking at fabbing a single spoiler that will bolt to the louver hinges and affix it to the glass with double sided tape. Different sizes could be tried until a viable, if any, design shows an improvement in fume ingestion.

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Howdy guys' date='

 

Took some photos yesterday.

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8086

 

The car now has 3 coats of spray putty and we are ready to block it back. The colour will be a deep burgandy red, Grab a good bottle of pinot noir and add some flake to it and thats about the colour. It has taken 3 years to get to this stage. The end seems in sight. I realize that this thread is about aerodynamics, the photos will explain all.

 

 

Cheers, Douglas[/quote']

 

Very nice work! I really like how that is turning out. Very modern, but still distinctly 1st gen Z. This is what the 350Z should have looked like. Keep up the good work, I bet it's going to look amazing once you get some paint on it.

 

Mike

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You don't need a piece of L channel to do your test on the roof just in front of the hatch opening.. I have not tried it yet with yarn, but I took a piece of cardboart, and tucked it in through the top of the hatch, and closed the hatch to wedge it in place. it made a little spoiler at the roof/hatch area.. may work for testing. do the yarn test before and after. I used a piece of standard looking cardboard, the width of the hatch opening, and about 3" wide.. and I stuck half into the opening and closed the hatch to hold it in place.

 

I took pics, somewhere..

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I was thinking about picking up some green foam at the arts and crafts store. A little time carving would produce a mini BRE spoiler (to match the rear BRE spoler). It could be mounted between the hatch seam and weatherstripping. That would have to produce a measurable difference in airflow! I think you need to add a few cardboard fillets to prevent air pressure from collapsing that makeshift cardboard spoiler in order to get viable results. Let us know how the yarn acts.

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The louvers may cause some disruption but nothing compared to a real spoiler. I have the rear deck spoiler and still deal with the fumes. That is not the only problem with my car (other issues are being addressed). I'm guessing that others here have performed all of the other services such as weatherstriping, gaskets, silicone and hoses but still ahve fumes (hopefully to a lesser extent). The top spoiler may not be the end-all but it would be nice if it made a very distinct difference.

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Nearly everyone who has worked on his car a lot ended up removing those so they have become very difficult to find. They were a significant contributor to helping cool the engines by better controling the air flow and actually increasing the flow through the radiator. I no longer have one on my car but would probably put one back on if I can find one lonely.

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Guest Z Draci

 

I put one of those on my car and it did increase stability at 70+mph. It was so minor that it's nothing to write home about. Putting on a full flat panel from the front valence to the firewall might do more (i.e. Z432). Running with your bonnet popped also helps evacuate pressure from the engine bay.

 

The underbody of the S30 is very rough. Working on the underbody also adds another dimension to all this.

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Running with your bonnet popped also helps evacuate pressure from the engine bay.

Read the whole thread. Yarn goes INTO the hole, not OUT of the hole. Popping the hood increases pressure under the car.

 

As to the vortex generators, I'd assume that having the air flow stuck to the hatch would make the spoiler more effective, so for those running a spoiler maybe the vortex generators would improve downforce gained.

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Putting on a full flat panel from the front valence to the firewall might do more (i.e. Z432).

 

The Fairlady Z432 ( PS30 ) had the same type of 'splash pan' as the other models that were coming off the production line at the same time.

 

It was the Fairlady Z432-R ( PS30-SB ) that had the full engine / trans belly panel in FRP, which attached to the front valance and covered the whole of the underside of the engine bay.

 

This part was later sold as a Sports Option part by 'Nissan Sport Service' for the S30 / PS30 / HS30 / HLS30 etc. Part number 99090-N3075 UNDER GUARD KIT-FR.

432R Belly Pan_thumb.jpg

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