QuickSilverAWD Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 I am admittedly very new to the SBC carb'd scene. I think that the motor in the 74 that I am restoring is going out. I was interested in trying to find a temporary solution with a good junkyard motor in the form of a SBC and a JTR mount kit. What would be a good motor to look/ask for at the yards that would be good for my short term use of ease of install and then also later on when I get more money together for the removal and aggressive build would still be a great starting point. I have heard good things about the 350 with 2 caps or something but what cars would that motor come in that would make for the most economical and simple install. Also if you have an alternative motor suggestion feel free to voice your opinion and explain why and what cars that motor would be found in. Thanks in advance. Braxton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 Look for a Camaro or Firebird 350 with a CARB, mid 1980's, get the engine and transmission together as a unit, get the drive shaft. This way is easy and economical and can be modified later. Somtimes you can buy a complete car (Camaro) that is banged up or body rotted out but still runs good very cheap. This way you can drive the donor car to check out the motor and trans. This makes for an easy swap. Just my opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 you might also want to expand your search parameters, an engine does NOT need to be a chevy to make a good hotrod swap, a 500 caddy, or a 400-455 pointiac are also excellent choices if your somewhat skilled at engine swaps OR ARE UP TO LEARNING AS YOU PROGRESS with the work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuickSilverAWD Posted March 10, 2006 Author Share Posted March 10, 2006 Look for a Camaro or Firebird 350 with a CARB' date=' mid 1980's, get the engine and transmission together as a unit, get the drive shaft. This way is easy and economical and can be modified later. Somtimes you can buy a complete car (Camaro) that is banged up or body rotted out but still runs good very cheap. This way you can drive the donor car to check out the motor and trans. This makes for an easy swap. Just my opinion[/quote'] Is there an engine code or exact years that I should look for?? Also what is a good range of prices on the whole engine and tranny out of that particular car?? you might also want to expand your search parameters, an engine does NOT need to be a chevy to make a good hotrod swap, a 500 caddy, or a 400-455 pointiac are also excellent choices if your somewhat skilled at engine swaps OR ARE UP TO LEARNING AS YOU PROGRESS with the work I luckily or unfortunately have done about 9 4g63t swaps so far in the two years that I have dabbled in cars but the biggest concern for the cost of the swap intially and then later on having a good starting point with a block that has large aftermarket support as well as ease of swapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas hammer Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 Here are some chevy block casting number to look for: 3970010 140029 366245 366256 366299 3855961 3911460 14316379 3970014 6259425 those are 69-85 year models 2 and 4 bolt mains. Here are some newer ones: 14079287 14088526 14488548 14095638 1401148 1489363 these are 86-94 year models 2 and 4 bolt mains. Hope this helps on your engine hunt. Around here in southeast Texas used engines go for $450-$600 and tranny for $450. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuickSilverAWD Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 Awesome. I love how this board has such quick response time to questions and how the answers are so detailed and informative. I should have bought a Z forever ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 SBC = 1950s tech Gen 3 (LS1, LS2 all LSx and newer GM truck motors) = 1990s tech the best bang for the buck is an LS1.. plus it has soooo much potential, with changing just the cam and valve springs, and having headers through a M6 you have a 450 RWHP car EASY. LS1 into a 240Z is the best swap IMO.. of course by looking at my screen name you can tell i might have a slight bias. personaly i dont see anything better than getting 20+ mpg in a NA car that makes over 450rwhp... im sure someone else has a diffrent answer, but after wasting time on a SBC 3rd gen, SBC 78 malibu and a LT1 malibu station wagon im putting an LS1 into SOMETHING, just happens i found a good deal on my car and i love it already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingnutthehutt Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 Even though you may not be able to tell before you purchase a motor, try and get a two bolt main block. If you decide to use that block for big power later on, the block is a stronger. Some will argue that a 4 bolt main allows for less crank flex, but the block ends up flexing instead. Go two bolt, and then have it machined to accept four bolt angle caps. Again, years down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 Don't get too hung up on engine codes, it will make you crazy, the casting # are at the rear of the block and I know I can't read them with the motor in the car. A pre 1987 motor is carburated and will NOT require you to mess around with all that computer wiring when doing a swap. If you go with a injected engine then get the complete harness and computer out of the car, this raises the cost and complexity. Almost any SBC 350 will make a stock Z look like it's going backwards. As for cost it varies widely, miles on engine. year, type, etc. ask around and find someone that deals with a junk yard that he TRUSTS and buy there. Just my opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 But if he wants to go really cheap, I think an old SBC will be much cheaper and easier in the long run. If he doesn't mind a few grand on a junkyard engine and trans, the, yes, the LS1/2/6 is a better choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuickSilverAWD Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 If I was to get an ls1, the motor mount kit requires the use of the ls1 mounts as well, Correct?? On that topic, the website for the kit doesnt seem to be able to use the stock a/c location, correct?? Then there is the electrical issues of wiring a ls1 into a 260z for example. How difficult is that task and would you be using the ls1 MAF setup on the 260z chassis wiring or would you have to create some custom harness OR is there one thats already made?? There are intake manifolds out now for the ls1 that make it carb'd. Would that create less of a headache in wiring but decrease fuel economy?? I have tons of questions but I am getting them all answered from the generous input of you guys. Thanks again in advance. Braxton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 hmm some questions in there ill try to answer all... use LS1 motor mounts, cut them up and weld them to the frame of the 240.. its what was done to my car. LS1 wiring.. an LS1, given proper fuel pressure and a power source will run OUTSIDE of a car. all you have to do is get power to the chasis, no harness integration. tune the car and have the VATS, EGR, AIR, O2s all deleted and then have it tuned speed denisty, no longer need a MAF. yes, they make a carbed kit. has an MSD box to control the individual coil packs and hooks to the crankshaft sensor. IMO use the stock fuel injection welding in motor and trans mounts for one motor is not going to be any more difficult than for another motor. dont waste your time with an SBC.. step up to an LS1 and an M6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuickSilverAWD Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 What all electronics would I need for the engine then because the yards here will charge for every sensor, switch relay, terminal and wire?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9kredline Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 then have it tuned speed denisty, no longer need a MAF. Not good advice at all. If you ever plan on modifying the engine beyond a stock, or current at time of tune, state, both your performance and gas mileage will suffer. The computer is no longer able to adapt and modify fuel map variables in response to changes in air flow, only serving to degrade and undermine what you're trying to accomplish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Not good advice at all. If you ever plan on modifying the engine beyond a stock, or current at time of tune, state, both your performance and gas mileage will suffer. The computer is no longer able to adapt and modify fuel map variables in response to changes in air flow, only serving to degrade and undermine what you're trying to accomplish. um thats why you re-tune it everytime you modify it again. i had my car tuned the way i described it and i LOVE it. i love having no MAF, and i cant wait to put my other LS1 into my 240 and have it MAF tuned with a cam and headers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 The original post requested info on an ECONOMICAL sbc, the LS1 as described is a LOT of MONEY, something us old dudes have but maybe not everyone that posts here. If I were building a daily driver I would go with the LS1 because of the reliablity and smoothness, fuel economy, etc. I have put a few in street rods for this reason. Now, I am NOT going to suggest a $5000 crate motor because MONEY is a concern. Anyone understand this?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 The original post requested info on an ECONOMICAL sbc, the LS1 as described is a LOT of MONEY, something us old dudes have but maybe not everyone that posts here. If I were building a daily driver I would go with the LS1 because of the reliablity and smoothness, fuel economy, etc. I have put a few in street rods for this reason. Now, I am NOT going to suggest a $5000 crate motor because MONEY is a concern. Anyone understand this?? yes, most economical dosent always mean cheapest inital cost, thats what the whole thing about an LS1 is, you dont have to go and run off and buy 1500 in heads becuase your heads suck bigtime if you want to make more than 300 hp on less than 5000:1 compression on leaded race fuel. if you total up rebuilding a SBC with hyper pistons and just a mild build including new heads and intake you might as well start off with an LS1. trust me, i have built both. its better to buy an LS1 you dont have to rebuild than a SBC you have to. more reliable and about equal in cost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 The high initial buy in of an LS1 simply precludes it from being thought of as economical. It may be the cheapest way to 400 HP at the wheels. But if that is your goal you need to be realistic about a budget. Just the reprogramming being talked about above can run into big bucks for tuning software and a laptop. My suggestion is to install a near stock engine and resist the urge to modify it. A TPI 305 is near perfect for this. People practically give those engines away. Get the car on the road, then start saving money for the hipo engine. How much you can save will tell you what type of engine you can afford. This way you will have a drivable Z while you build the dream engine. All too often engine projects never get out of the dream stage. Don't get caught in a cycle of never getting your Z on the road because you are waiting for something that you will never be able to afford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Pop n Wood you and I agree, I still suggest a complete running camaro that someone wants to unload because of body damage, interior bad, bald tires, you get the picture. These cars have rotted floor pans if in the snow belt. You just need to find one that is good running. Off that car you get engine, trans, radiator, drive shaft, floor shifter, etc. You can pick up these cars for under $500 or as little as $200, the thing don't even need a title. This may be considered a RED Neck way of doing it, but this is the guys first swap, he won't keep this car forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuickSilverAWD Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 The high initial buy in of an LS1 simply precludes it from being thought of as economical. It may be the cheapest way to 400 HP at the wheels. But if that is your goal you need to be realistic about a budget. Just the reprogramming being talked about above can run into big bucks for tuning software and a laptop. My suggestion is to install a near stock engine and resist the urge to modify it. A TPI 305 is near perfect for this. People practically give those engines away. Get the car on the road' date=' then start saving money for the hipo engine. How much you can save will tell you what type of engine you can afford. This way you will have a drivable Z while you build the dream engine. All too often engine projects never get out of the dream stage. Don't get caught in a cycle of never getting your Z on the road because you are waiting for something that you will never be able to afford.[/quote'] Would the 305 TPI be able to use the JTR or similar motor mount kit?? Also if I bought a tranny for the TPI setup would I be able to use the same one later on or would I have to buy an additional one?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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