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Economical Junkyard SBC


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There's an Lt1 in the HZ classifieds right now for $1900 with everything you need minus a tranny. It's a pretty sweet deal, if you have the cash, grab it. Also, Paz8 has a good point. I found an 88 Corvette with major body damage on eBay for $1500 with complete perfect drivetrain. If I'd had the cash that day, I could have come out even with everything I needed being paid for by parting out the rest of the car.

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I didn't see any mention of JTR's book. If you don't have one already..get one. It's an invaluable tool, and it covers what engines you can use and the best ways to find one.

 

I don't know what it is with LSx guys, but they aren't the solution for everyone. If you're looking for an economical solution don't even go down that road. If you want a nice high performance reliable car and are willing to pay the price then go for it. Based on the requirements in your inital post, just find an old car (preferrably f-body) and you'll be on your way.

 

You didn't specifically mention it, but make sure you find one with the transmission you want (manual or automatic). Since this is temporary, I wouldn't worry about much more than a 305 or 350 cid Chevrolet that runs decent with the right transmission (preferrably a whole car).

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Would the 305 TPI be able to use the JTR or similar motor mount kit?? Also if I bought a tranny for the TPI setup would I be able to use the same one later on or would I have to buy an additional one??

 

a 305 is best used as a boat anchor. VERY limited performance upgrades available. 305 is no diffrent than any other SBC you could use the JTR mounts, can even use them on LT1s, just not LS1s

 

LT1 for 1900 without trans? thats insane, i have one with a trans, new opti and painless harness than you could have for $1900 hell id probably deliver it to you. you can get complete LT1 cars for $3000

 

bottom line is that if he plans on further modifying the car the LS1 takes a larger inital cost but is much cheaper and less of a headache to swap one motor in a car and have it the way you want it the first time rather than buy a motor, sort out the swap and just swap it out for a better motor later on.

 

if you plan on making more than 350 rwhp dont do anything less than an LS1.. itll cost you more in the long run and be more headaches. this is comming from someone who has worked on several of our SBC cars, rebuilding a 406 and a 350, swaping in an LT1 motor into a car and in process of completely rebuilding an LS1. bottom line, dont skimp you will hate yourself later for being a cheap bastard now

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Just the reprogramming being talked about above can run into big bucks for tuning software and a laptop.

 

My suggestion is to install a near stock engine and resist the urge to modify it. A TPI 305 is near perfect for this. People practically give those engines away.

 

you only need to tune the car once thats $300-500 depending.

 

there is a reason why people give 305 TPIs away. ever heard the saying "you get what you pay for" ? first thing i did when i got my IROC was ditch that 305

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You might want to take a look at the ad for the LT1 before you start criticizing it. It really isn’t a bad deal when you look at everything that comes with it.

 

Not arguing the performance potential of a 305. My post originally included a suggestion of going to a marina to trade a boat anchor for one. No kidding. But I stand by what I said. You seem to keep missing the word “economicalâ€. It is because no one wants a 305 that makes them such a deal.

 

Also weren’t you the one who suggested going speed density and retuning after every mod? Adding $300-$500 to every bolt on could really add up after awhile.

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Well I am going to recommend you consider a crate motor - Pace Parts http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=132 will sell you a brand new GM 350 SBC for $1,429.95 (+$100 if you don't have a core) w/free shipping!!!! It even comes with a factory warranty. Yeah you have to add intake/carb, waterpump, distributor, etc. but it's still a great deal for a new motor.

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Also weren’t you the one who suggested going speed density and retuning after every mod? Adding $300-$500 to every bolt on could really add up after awhile.

 

ok, NOBODY does that. its either going to get tuned once or retuned a second time, and most of the time a re-tune fee is considerably less

 

he didnt just say economical in his first post. he said he wanted a nice base to start to mod from later.

 

lets see 1200 for a new motor... 500 at least for a trans... 75 water pump.. 150 intake, 150 carb, 100 HEI ads up to be a pretty expensive 260hp

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Ya, that would be awesome and reliable but thats alot of up front cost. I am going to continue to research other engines and even like grumpy said consider a Caddy 500 more seriously. The only downside that I have been reading on the Caddy is the lacking of transmission options without a Chevy adapter plate and the snug fit without a JTR style kit.

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I've thought about putting a 305 in one of my vehicles just for something with a little balls and should get a little better mileage than a 350. Then I got my hands on a 350 vortec so so much for that. Anyway, don't rule it out because you can basically get one for nothing and you can always put another sbc in later. I know everyone who has an LS1 loves them and thinks the world of them (blah blah blah) but some of us just want something simple that still makes good power and won't cost a buttload to get started with.

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don't rule out the 305, it is a good, economical engine that can be made to perform fairly well. as was said before i would seriously consider buying a complete car like an 80s f-body. then all you have to do is swap the engine and trans from the doner car to your Z. this way you can spend your time working the bugs out of the car as a package and not working on the engine.

 

if you guys don't like 305's can i have them? :lmao:

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  • 1 month later...
Guest 73LT1Z

I've read all the posts here with interest. I went with the LT1 in my 280Z because I had the 80K motor & T56 from my Trans Am after I installed a 383 & upgraded T56 in it. I added a GM Hotcam ($250 +/-), a set of used ported heads ($500), and new pushrods ($100) along with ARP head studs & new gaskets and a ported throttle body ($170). Probably spent as much on the AC & belt system as I did on motor mods :(.

 

I'm currently shopping for a complete (motor, accessories, sensors, wiring & computer) motor for my Supra V8 swap. Here's what I've found so far- various message board ads & Ebay:

1. Complete LT1 $500 (S. Florida)

2. Complete LT1 & T56 $1700 (Central FL)

3. LS1 $1300 unknown completeness (local ad)

4. Used pullout LQ4 (6 liter Gen 3 truck motor less accessories) Ebay- $1600+ shipping

5. Used LS1- Ebay- $2000+/- +shipping

6. Built (forged parts) LS1 shortblock- Ebay- $3000 +/- +shipping

7. 402 LSX shortblock (SLP) $3600 + shipping

 

The easiest/least expensive (aka CHEAP) way out here is an LT1 from FL since that is where I live & I have a bunch of parts leftover from the last two motor jobs, as well as a "wealth" ;) of LT1 wiring knowledge & parts from the 280Z project.

 

Given the $, I'd love to build up one of those SLP 402 motors (Chevy High Performance did a similar setup & got like 600HP normally aspirated), but the short block is $3600, the heads are like $2200, and you still need a BUNCH of other $tuff, intake, sensors, wiring, computer, etc. I also like the way the LSX mounts the accessories in tight- this was a big issue on the Z, however I don't think it will be on the Supra.

 

There is an old saying which I will probaly butcher, you can have two of these three:

Power (speed)

Reliability

Low cost

 

-OR-

 

Speed costs money. How much do you want to spend?

 

There is good advice in this thread, hope it helps you to decide.

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People give 305's away. NOBODY (at least not on something) gives away the TPI stuff. But if they do, give me their number please. Personally, I think the 92 235 hp 5 speed TPI 305 is an ideal swap for a Z if you can find the complete setup cheap and not worn out. Your Z should be fast and reliable and reasonably inexpensive as far as swaps go. Coincidentally why I like my Z so much to begin with.

 

The example I always use is my buddy's '74 'vette convertible that weighs 3800# and ran 13.97 with a 86 TPI 305 with an SLP flat tappet cam, Blackjack headers and Edelbrock intake base. (The original was warped in a 6000 mile car back in 87!) That's with a TH700R4 with stock converter and 3.07 gears. A 1000# lighter Z should run low 12's with that setup.

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