DaleMX Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 I just love the way the Datsun shop manual says "after removing the bolts pull the pin out. 2 days later after sawing the control arms off, beating with a 5 lb hammer, purchasing a 12 ton press, and heating it while hammering on it I have finally removed both pins. I think I'll take a break now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 lol wow. i guess i lucked out. mine came out with some beating with a ball peen hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 You are now qualified for Sainthood.... When it goes good it seems too easy and when it refuses to budge it really sucks. Most of us have been there. Welcome to the club. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 The press is what did it. But it was still quite an ordeal. I had all the pressure it could muster on it and still it would'nt budge. So out with the map gas. After heating for a while it finally gave about an eighth of an inch. Then slowly it started out. Man you should have heard the noise it made when it gave, my ears are still ringing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 First I sawed through the spindle pin to remove the control arm. Then I used a 75-ton press – and bent the fixture that I used to apply loading to the spindle pin, but didn’t budge the spindle pin! Then I drilled through the spindle pin with a 3/8†drill bit from both ends, and tried again with the hydraulic press – no luck. Finally I took the strut casting to a machine shop, which used a mill and boring-bar to remove the remnants of the spindle pin. $200 later the job was done. Next time I do this, I’ll take the whole strut/control arm assembly to a machine shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 When it comes to removing spindle pins I have one simple rule: Just say no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 When it comes to removing spindle pins I have one simple rule: Just say no. I don't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Try pulling one out and you will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 So far all of the spindle pins I have removed have come out rather easily withthe spindle pin puller tool. Hope my luck holds out!! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 I think all the people that have problem with removal are all trying to PRESS it out. Those who actually PULL it out have better success. Somehow I think the pin gets thicker when it is pressed(squashed), but when you pull it the diameter doesn't grow. The pulling tool used to be in circulation, now I don't know. What does the tool look like and can I make one myself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Nope. Tried to pull it, push it, curse at it, but the only course of action was to cut it from the lower control arm, then press the pieces out. Rust fusion (what I call it) is a real pain in the butt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 After looking at mine I believe it to be dissimilar metals causing a galvanic reaction with time. Lots of nickel based anti-seize will be added this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 I think all the people that have problem with removal are all trying to PRESS it out. Those who actually PULL it out have better success. Somehow I think the pin gets thicker when it is pressed(squashed)' date=' but when you pull it the diameter doesn't grow. The pulling tool used to be in circulation, now I don't know. What does the tool look like and can I make one myself?[/quote'] I made one, I think if the pins are only slightly stuck it'd do the job. For me the spindle pins just ripped the thread out of the tool without budging a mm. This was with giving each end of the pin a few mighty wallops anyway, grrr! The inherent flaw I see with the tool is that it's relying on having a strong enough grip on the M12x1.25 thread on the end of the pin. Maybe if the thread had been a 1.75mm pitch it would have more of a chance to grip securely but alas Datsun love their fine thread pitches! Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 I saw a spindle pin puller offered in the HybridZ classifieds. I sent several e-mails to procure this one, months ago, with out any response. I would like to own one as well. I will be doing other Z's. Tools.....a good thing! Any one have one for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 We had (have?) a loaner program. Here is the thread--it's actually a 'sticky' above: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84230 Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportZ2 Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 I have the spindle puller from Darrel. I have used it twice and it took about twenty minutes with no sweat involved. They came out easy. If you want to contact him his email address is: DLH2460@aol.com. He will get back to you. If you belong to a local Z club you should get it to buy the tool as a loaner to club members. That way the cost is deferred to all the members and it actually gets used more then a couple of times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Thanks for the info. Yes Darrel just PM'ed me about it! Since we are chartering the first Z club here (with Nissan support) We plan to drum up as much member amenities as possible and I think Datsun/Nissan specific tools would be a nice add. Many thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 I have the spindle puller from Darrel. I have used it twice and it took about twenty minutes with no sweat involved. They came out easy. If you want to contact him his email address is: DLH2460@aol.com. He will get back to you. If you belong to a local Z club you should get it to buy the tool as a loaner to club members. That way the cost is deferred to all the members and it actually gets used more then a couple of times. Thanks Art. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 My last experience went like this: Step 1: Soak spindle pin for 4 days in Moovit, spraying it down every 4 hours or so. Step 2: Use nicely made hybridz puller loaner tool. Step 3: Tighten puller all the way, beat on other end with hammer. Step 4: After 4 hours of this, break 1st puller Step 5: Have new puller parts machined out of 1060. Step 6: Continue to heat & beat pin with hammer for a day. Step 7: Use new puller parts. Break new puller part. Step 8: Heat treat second replacement puller part. Step 9: Have puller part shear off threads from pin. Step 10: Spend 2 days heating and hammering pin, discarding broken puller. Step 11: Spend $20 at machine shop having pin pressed out. Another machinist must be found if I ever have this done again, because the first one broke his press in the process. The moral of the story... don't even think about it if you live in the northwest... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 The moral of the story... don't even think about it if you live in the northwest... Richard, I would think the rust belt cars would qualify for this as well. But seriously, for the majority of the western US, that tool works pretty darn well. I may duplicate a tool for myself using even better steel, but I'd have to get some help from my machinist friends You listening Mike D?? Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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