Header Fasteners

[Bartman]

When I removed my headers I found that my header bolts had loosened. I did some checking around and found out this in not uncommon, especially when you have aluminum heads. Has anyone else experienced this?

 

I found a product called Stage 8 locking fasteners that should eliminate this problem. Anyone familiar with these?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STG%2D8911&N=400197+4294888324+115&autoview=sku

[2126]

Those should work well, as long as there is enough room between the bolt heads and the header tubes to install the retainer.

[Mike Mileski]

Here's another one that's supposed to be pretty good.

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=23317&parentCategoryId=11673&langId=-1

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson, AZ

[Guest 580_Z]

Back in the day... we use to cross drill the head of the header bolts and wire them together to keep them from backing out.

 

Bruce

[Lason]

Here's another one that's supposed to be pretty good.

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=23317&parentCategoryId=11673&langId=-1

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson' date=' AZ[/quote']

 

Is it me or do those look like they could screw up the threads, especially in a aluminum head? I saw those a while back and almost picked them up but went with the stage 8 stuff instead.

 

My only gripe with stage 8 pieces is I hate "E" clips and you will loose pieces to the bolts (easpecially "E" clips when you try to take them off). Its hard to get them all on without dropping a retainer into oblivion. My suggestion is to buy two sets if you can so you have extras.

 

Also I have to agree, saftey wire is also very good but looks like crap and would be hard to route around header tubes Im sure.

[Bartman]

Yes, the stage 8 bolts are just an updated version of the old technique of drilling and wiring. I have to agree wth Lason about the clips, it does seem like they would be easy to loose or break. The are also fairly expensive, especially if you buy an extra set. The Breslin's cost even more and I'm not sold on the design. It looks like a drywall molly.

 

I wonder if just getting better header bolts, like ARP, would help eliminate the problem?

[Guest 580_Z]

Also I have to agree, saftey wire is also very good but looks like crap and would be hard to route around header tubes Im sure.

Agreed... done poorly it can look bad... done right with stainless wire, you don't even see it... ok... hardly see it. You route under the tubes, no problems. The only time it is a hassle is when it's time to remove the headers. But still the wy to go... imho.

 

Bruce

[280zwitha383]

Heat is what causes the bolts to become loose. What I do is bolt the header up, run it, tighten the bolts run it again, tighten the bolts, then after you've done that a few times the gasket has pretty much settled. Then put blue locktight on each bolt and tighten them up. I was told this by a pretty old chevy guy and so far it has served me very well.

[331CI 280z]

I like the stage 8 myself

[Michael]

I have Brodix aluminum heads, Hooker block-hugger headers and the standard (low-carbon steel?) bolts that came with the Hooker headers. And Fel-pro (?) copper exhaust gaskets. No loose header trouble yet, but then again the engine hasn't run yet. Slowly I've been drilling the header bolts with a #56 bit to accept safety wire. I use used motor oil as the cutting fluid. With my Harbor Freight drill press and drill bits, it's a slow, laborious process, but so far I haven't broken any bits.

 

Point being, that if you have mild-steel header bolts, consider drilling them yourself, and using safety wire.

[DavyZ]

I bought the Stage 8 bolts for my block huggers. They fit fine and I don't think I'll lose any of the C (E?) clips for that matter. I had to cut them slightly to make them fit perfectly, but it was no biggie since the clips are made of soft aluminum.

 

BTW, stainless steel wire is cheaper and looks good when done well IMO. That said, to remove it and then reinstall more than once would start to get old really fast.

 

Davy

[danc]

I had the same problem and installed stage 8 on Fastburn 385 Aluminum heads in 2004. No problems since....

[GLSHLE]

I seen that ARP makes a drilled header bolt.