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T-5 in the early chassis


evildky

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I decided to switch from the KA 5 speed to a T-5 while replacing the clutch, my car is one fo the first series, so the diff mount is a touch forward, when I ran the KA I had to shorten the shaft about 3/4" and chop up the crossmember to relocate the mount about and inch back, so when I swapped in the T-5 my modified crossmember fit perfectly but the shaft is of course completely different and the shaft I had was from an auto ZXT so I had to remove the colar and it's gonna need an inch taken out except the ZXT shaft uses a tube that can't be shurtened so I'm having a new one made from scratch with servicable u-joints to the tune of about $400, this is turning out to be a very expensive clutch job :(

mostly i wanted to point out that the T-5 in an early chassis with an R200 beeds the shaft to be shortened and the pinion flange needs to be from a later R200 as well

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When I had my T5, I used the 280zxt (2 seater) driveshaft without any issues. I also had to hack the mount up some, but the driveshaft was good. car was a 75 280z 2 seater.

 

Well since yours is a 75, the diff is not in the same exact location as a series I.

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I kinda wondered if it would be an issue and it is, just wanted to share for any other early (first series) cars out there

 

anyone know the number of cars considered part of the first series? mine is number 11k, I've seen some others that were much later and still had some of the early traits, seems like a fuzzy line when the changes were made

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The ZXT shaft was not going to work in my late 240 which should have been in the same spot as the aforementioned 75. I had a shaft made for mine and I had WENCO build it with a brand new Nissan yoke and used the Neapco adapter with 1310 U-joint in the rear and it worked fine with the '78 R200 pinion flange (which did have to be swapped onto the 85 12mm R200). If you are planning a big power motor, they can take a Mopar 27 spline yoke and reduce the seal diameter so you can use it on the T5 with 1310 joint in the front.

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I read how Rick did his install, but the 72 and earlier cars use a different style trans mount that bolts to the body and not the bushed crossmember that hangs from the bolts like the 73 and up. I drilled the spot welds from a 71 mount and separated it. Moved it back the right amount and filled it in. Welded it back together. Both body bolts had stripped out on my car. I drilled them oversize and tapped them. Screwed fine thread studs in and locktited them. Now I can remove it infinite times without further damage to the car. (and I know I need it out at least one more time to change clutch collar and throwout fork.)

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  • 2 years later...
The ZXT shaft was not going to work in my late 240 which should have been in the same spot as the aforementioned 75. I had a shaft made for mine and I had WENCO build it with a brand new Nissan yoke and used the Neapco adapter with 1310 U-joint in the rear and it worked fine with the '78 R200 pinion flange (which did have to be swapped onto the 85 12mm R200). If you are planning a big power motor, they can take a Mopar 27 spline yoke and reduce the seal diameter so you can use it on the T5 with 1310 joint in the front.

 

 

More info please. Which Mopar yoke?

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I think it was to Torquflite 727 that has a 29 spline output? But the seal diameter is too large so it needs to be reduced in OD on a lathe. Pardon my uncertainty, but it was several years ago I had my shaft made. Check with Wenco! I was happy with their service and would buy another shaft from them.

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