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Everything posted by gregkring

  1. Obviously that will not work due to my location. Probably not much call for an auto trans, but I can use the bellhousing. If you can see fit to help a fellow Z'er I can cover shipping. If you don't want to then it's cool and I will keep looking.
  2. will take transmission. Only need housing, you can keep/resell the rest
  3. anytime I see boost falling with RPM I would check valve spring pressure as well. Especially if it is stock springs with that cam. A little play on a turbo is fine and won't cause dropping boost, but it is you doing the wiggling so I can't judge that. Feeling it move is one thing, but hearing it move by hand is definitely bad.
  4. This is your late Christmas present. There are so many threads on rims this one should go to the tool shed. However, All the rims you listed will work, but won't give you max tire size. I have a 71 with BC coilovers. I went with 17X8 and 225/45/17 tires. The rims were Rota RKR with a 4 offset. If they made the rims with more offset (+10) I could have fit a 8.5 on the rear with no rubbing. You do not want negative at all for stock fenders. That is for guys with flares. You need positive offset to push the rim towards the coilovers to get a wider tire in there. If lip is more important stick with zero offset or find a rim with a convex design to maximize the look.
  5. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
  6. About &950 with shipping, series one available next month. No mention of free shipping when I contacted them. Just glad to finally have an option over the $2000 legendary dashes wants to redo one. Anybody need a new dash cap? Greg
  7. just to go on record I am in for one of the kits, but have not heard back how to confirm. I don't have a running car, but am ready to install engine and trans if that helps. Waiting on this trans kit has been one of the many reasons I have procrastinated. I have a series 1 so the trans mount will be different anyway. I did email you direct, but as busy as you are I don't expect quick answers. Does the custom flywheel use the 225 mm regular or the 250 mm turbo and 2+2 larger clutch diameter? Thanks, Greg
  8. I have one, but can't remember what I paid for it years ago. Still holding out for the 6 speed adapter.
  9. I messaged you on Facebook. Was wanting to try your adapter with the VQ37 6 speeds. I happen to have a couple good ones already. Lots of shifter, hydraulic clutch, and throwout bearing kits and spacers out there for the IS300 and supra conversions. Would love to mix and match on the Z car. The hydraulic clutch spacers makeup for the adapter, just need the starter addressed. Greg
  10. Tim, did you get your bellhousing yet?
  11. very impressive. Everything that company does has been top notch and priced reasonable.
  12. I would be in on one. I was toying with the same idea as you. So would the RB26 work if holes were slotted? I don't care about SFI rating. I also thought it was pretty close and willing to try one out. If I had a T56 ready I would have tried it out. I actually had one of the RB26 bellhousings in the shopping cart of Summit and backed out at the last minute. I keep holding out for Hokes conversion kit. I am parts manager of the largest Infiniti dealership in the nation so I can get ahold of the CD009 easily. I'd rather use a GM 6 speed as more stuff is available including mechanical speedo.
  13. bump. Make an offer, I won't be using them. Greg
  14. I just ordered a set as well. Little pricey, but very cool. I also think I can modify them easier to move the engine back an inch. Every little bit will help with fan clearance!
  15. I bought these big brake mounting brackets from silvermine when trying to work up my front brakes and ended up not using them. Been mounted, but never used. Cost me about $210 delivered, letting go for $170 shipping included. Info at http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-kit-individual-parts/front-wilwood-custom-bracket-for-s30-brake-upgrade-147
  16. close. That kit is for the 2.36 offset brakes. Our cars have short offsets, closer to 1.9 inches. You need to use the parking brake kit from the 2 inch offset bronco kit. http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear.aspx?itemno=140-13733-DR You can only use the parking brake kit portion, unless you have 5 lug hubs. The rotors that come in the kit are multiple pattern 5 lug ones. No room to redrill for 4 lug. I used the wilwood "blanks" instead. http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-6868 You can also get drilled and slotted versions. I was wanting just slotted, but couldn't find it. Definitely not a bolt on kit, but totally doable.
  17. Been working on this for awhile. I previously had 81 280zx discs which worked fine, but were plain, ugly, nonvented, and the parking brake cable routing was poor. I have looked at all the popular conversions. while they all work fine, they floating caliper style definitely aren't sexy. All the fixed calipers either have no parking brake (unsafe and inconvenient) or have a separate spot caliper that is not my preference. There is the one "rally style" modified wilwood out there, but I have no idea if it actually works well. I wanted to go with the internal parking brake inside the rotor hat. Very clean and effective. I started with a Wilwood parking brake kit originally designed for the old Ford Broncos. They have a very similar backing plate to hub offset as our Z cars and the bore diameter and bolt pattern is close to bolt to the rear spindle. I could not use the whole kit as the rotor bolt patterns are wrong and the caliper piston sizes are wrong as well for the lighter Z car. Clearances worked out really well. I actually mounted them upside down so the parking brake lever is on the bottom. This places it almost exactly in the same spot as the factory ones for the old drum brakes so the routing is perfect. Have to make a new bracket to mount the cables, but I can use the same mounting holes as factory. I ended up ordering wilwood "blank" rotors so I could drill the correct bolt pattern. I also had to order their blank centering rings as they don't offer those already cut for the nissan hub diameter. Luckily my father in law has an awesome lathe and knocked that out quickly. This allows the rotors to stay hubcentric like they need to. A 5 lug conversion would have made it able to order off the shelf rotors, but I am not ready for new rims yet. 12 inch rotors .81 thick, vented of course. Nice fixed caliper that will match my 6 pistons front ones pretty well. Backside view. Had to do a lug mount as I couldn't find a radial mount for anything smaller than a 13 inch rotor. Radial mount does open up more caliper choices, but I just see no reason for the extra work at this time. You can also see I am still running the old ZX CV shafts. Did this 20 years ago before all the modern motorsports and stuff came about. Still working good. Next step is to start finish up the front. I have a set of JSK rotor adapters so that made life easier. Picked 12 inch 1.25 thick slotted rotors. Later on I can always go to a 13 inch, but it would be way overkill (as if this isn't already?) Already fitted 6 piston wilwoods by using C5 corvette radial caliper mounts. Still need to redrill and add a small spacer to make it perfect.
  18. Ed Pink has been doing some of the work on the newman racecars owned by Adam Carolla. Definitely well known in the domestic world.
  19. I reread your post. You have tall 280 struts on a 240z. The coilovers will get you back to the correct ride height you want plus a little lower. I would take this chance to change out to the correct 240 parts, however.
  20. You are not shortening your factory struts. You are just leaving a 2 inch stub to press the coilover setup onto and weld. You need the 280 setup for the length to match your strut towers as well as be the correct diameter tubes. Forget about the 2 inch number, it has nothing to do with ride height.
  21. Bang for the buck? That braille battery is $600. Promising 3 to 5 years longer than a lead battery, but it only has a 1 year warranty and 2 year prorated "available" after that. My cheesy autozone or walmart batteries have at least 3 year free replacements. I would bet that is why someone would go a little bit larger than a stock z car battery. As you say for daily drivers it is no problem to keep the battyer charged and ready to go. On the flip side the lithium batteries are very cool. I keep a small lithium jumpbox in my daily truck and it works awesome. I can agree they are great money no object batteries, but calling them a great bang for the buck is a little silly. To address the original post. On my car I added a battery tray using rivnuts to the factory tray. That way I can use regular hold downs, and had an additional tray to protect the cars paint. Greg
  22. 2 things, First, you think the guy filed the claim before the video came out? Very likely. The vid makes it look like he was playing with himself or the radio while driving and ran off the road. Unfortunately a lake happened to be there. When it came time to file a claim he probably made the fatal error of making up a less embarassing excuse than I ran my million dollar car into a lake by mistake. Second, the policy he had was a classic car policy with restrictions. Car was insured for travelling from show to show or display only. Not for running errands around town or cruising. Basically mileage restrictions as a way to keep policy premiums low. If you never drive the car the chances of paying a claim are low. On my collector cars I choose collector insurance, but without the restrictions. I pay a little more, but can drive my cars anywhere. Still not covered if they get stolen in movie theater parking lot. Looks like this guy gambled and lost. With the questioneable loan for the car I think they are introducing fraud, but I think there are much better ways to commit fraud than driving your own car into a lake. Guilty of bad decisions for sure, though.
  23. All you need to worry about is having a decent tune to get the engine fired quickly and cleanly. I am assuming the engine builder put plenty of assembly lube on everything. Pull plugs and crank motor over to get oil pressure quickly. Make sure injectors are not firing and flooding the motor by unplugging ECM fuse or injectors. Once you have oil pressure put everything back together and fire it up. I prefer to run until it reaches operating temp, then drain and change oil and filter and go have fun.
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