does anyone make a manual brake conversion?

[roller]

i would like to get rid of the brake booster. i have no use for it.

[AK-Z]

What do you mean by "manual brake." Are you talking about somthing like a hand brake? Where a level pulls a cable causing the brake to engage? Then no, Well half no haha. Not that I know of.

 

For what reason would you want manual brakes?

[iaconsultants]

Maybe you are talking about some of the old cars that had a cable that was pushed with your foot peddle and moved some of the early brake drumb or strap brakes.

 

Or are doing some kind of engine swap with a car that did not have one so you just want to get rid of it?

[OlderThanMe]

he means non-boosted brakes. You probably only have to make a spacer to go from the firewall to the MC with a rod in the middle. Or you could just gut the inside of the booster.

[Guest dherde26]

how stiff do u think the pedal would get and would it be a huge diff is pedal pressure to stop or...

[mario_82_ZXT]

There is a significant difference in pedal pressure, but it isn't bad.

 

I know a few people on here got rid of it. I got to drive 1 fast Z's 280z without the booster and the car stopped just fine. Like I said, there is a difference, but it isn't bad.

 

I'll probably do it when my booster craps out.

Mario

[Pop N Wood]

Quite a few guys have installed dual master cylinders, all non-powered (no booster)

 

Do a search on dual MC or Tilton and you should find plenty of info. I know JohnC has posted pics of his set ups.

[1 tuff z]

try simply disconnecting the vacuum line first, that should give u a good idea of what the pedal effort would be like.

[gramercyjam]

I got rid of the booster on my '73. The booster was fine for the street but with race pads & shoes and hoosier slicks on a 1 ton car it was too easy to lock them up. I used the original MC, cut a mounting plate off of the booster, and used the rod that connects to the brake pedal and the rod that goes into the MC. Drilled some holes and welded the two rods together. I added a manual proportioning valve to the rear brakes and took out the original proportioning valve. I'm happy with the result.

[SBC_400]

you can just pinch the vacume line to bypass the booster, but he peday will be stiff. I am using a wilwood set up with tandem ap masters now. the pedal ratio is set up to use without a booster

[JMortensen]

There are also many racing dual master cylinder setups out there that do not use a booster. They generally have a better leverage ratio than the boosted ones do, so you don't have to push on the brake pedal so hard. Do a search or better yet hit a circle track parts website like http://www.behrents.com or http://www.pitstopusa.com and look there and you'll find a whole bunch of them. Tilton is probably the most popular, then Wilwood.

[fastzcars]

Here's 3 pix of a car, this should help you out.

[zed240au]

of course the other benefit of seperate master cylinders is the ablity to adjust brake bias my rx4 was set up like this as it was built to dirt rally but i hated it the guys just used girlock trailer master cylinders 3/4 front and 7/8 rear

But u had to stomp on them to make them work think its a personal thing the guys that built my rx4 where top rally drivers said it gave u more feel than a booster especially on gravel

But for my driving i found a booster and std master cylinder works fine and the car still as quick though i havent been back on gravel since my navigator wrote off the car before this one which the brake system came fitted too