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Pertronix Ignitor vs 79-81 Elec. dizzy


rclayton12

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I would go with the 79-80 zx dizzy. But if you ever have the ignition module go out, it'll cost a pretty penny to replace it. If affordability is your primary concern, I would go with the Pertronix or better yet, the Crane XR3000. Both completely replace the points and with the XR3000 you can sell your MSD 6AL to recover the cost of the Crane since it pretty much does the same thing.

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Don't worry about the module, you don't need it with the 6AL. Just run the wires that do go to the module to the trigger wiring on the MSD.

 

Even if you wanted to run the module (bad idea but you could) you can substitute the GM HEI module or a Chrysler module that you can get at any auto parts store for $15.

 

I agree that the ZX distributor is the way to go. It has a better timing curve than the 240Z distributor.

 

Look out for the vacuum advance mechanism. They self-destruct all the time. If you're looking for max performance just eliminate the vacuum setup and run timing at between 15-20 degrees at idle.

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Whatever path you choose, more important than the trigger is total advance. You need at least 34 degrees total spark advance, however you get there. You can modify the stock distributor for more advance especially if you eliminate the vacuum advance.

 

I elected to go with a Mallory distributor without vacuum for my triple setup. Triples really don't pull enough vacuum from a single runner/carburetor throat to be effective. Currently I am running the dual points with 38 degrees advance. I have not played with it to see if this is optimum or not. I ordered the Unilite conversion but it has been back ordered since February?

 

I have bought a 6A which I most likely will trigger one way or the other with the Mallory distrbutor, but the fully adjustable advance curve is great.

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Never had problems with the Pertronix. Did have a 280Z module fail on me once, though (it was 25 yrs old!).

 

Instead of "you need at least 34 degrees", I'd say you need no more than 36deg total spark advance. I get max power between 34 and 38, so I keep it set to 35. Doesn't cost me any hp, and gives some margin for lower-octane fuel.

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Hmm... short memory Dan? Didn't you also recurve your 240 distributor to roughly the same curve (17 degrees @2500 rpm) as the ZX distributor?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95880

 

Seems to me the ZX is just easier and you don't have to mess with it to get the timing right, although if you want it set up right you most likely will have to either fix or eliminate the vacuum advance mechanism.

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I have a follow-on question for John and Dan. I have a '73 240 with L28, flat top pistons, N42 head, mild cam, header, 2.5" exhaust. I've been running with a 70-73 stock distributor, don't know which year. I have had the pertronix in it along with their coil for 3 years and it has been great. I took the distributor apart when I installed the pertronix and cleaned it up, new grease on the ball bearings, etc. Vacuum plate moves reasonably well.

 

I also have a spare '80 ZX distributor and am getting ready to install triple weber 40s. My question to you is if it's worth swapping over to 80 dizzy and module to get the better advance curve, or just leave things as they are, which has been rock solid reliable. I'm guessing that I'm going to have to give up the vacuum advance with the webers anyway. If it matters, I do most of my driving around 6000 feet altitude.

 

What do you think?

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Either way it's kind of a hassle. If you use the ZX distributor you're pretty much signing up to fix the vacuum advance because they're always broken. If you recurve the existing one then you're looking at brazing or epoxying the slots closed and fiddling with it until you get the advance right.

 

Recurving your distributor only really effects what happens up to the point at which the advance is all done. So you're talking about idle to 2500 or 3000 rpm. Recurving makes a big difference as far as throttle response goes, but after that rpm range it doesn't make any difference at all.

 

I think it's worth it, and of the two options I like the ZX better. The ZX is newer so it's less likely to need bushings, and the trigger mechanism is better than the pertronix as I understand it.

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Either way, really. Which has less shaft play?

 

If you stick with the 240 dist, you either have to run ~10deg idle advance or partially fill in the advance slots. I filled mine in on the low-rpm side, so if the JBWeld ever wore away or dropped out it would only reduce my idle advance, not increase max advance.

 

Either way, it's not the end of the world to lose the vac advance.

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Just a suggestion, to limit vacuum advance on my 73 I took apart the vacuum pod actuating arm (the arm that pulls the breaker plate) removed keeper and spring and install correct dia. washer washers to affect desired travel degree limit .

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  • 2 years later...

I think the early 280ZX distributor is the same as the later one, aside from the module. If I'm wrong on that and yours is like the 280Z distributor with a gap adjusted trigger inside the cap, I like the later distributor better. Two reasons why: 1. the later distributor has less mechanical advance 2. The stator and reluctor can't move in relation to one another (assuming the vac advance isn't broken.

 

A friend of mine had the pickup move into the trigger wheel on the early style EI distributor at an autox, and the car just died on the spot. Took a while to figure out what had happened. With a ZX distritubor that isn't broken, that failure wouldn't have happened.

 

If you're going to put money into ignition, check out some of the DIY direct ignition setups. They are way more accurate than any distributor will be and some of them are pretty inexpensive.

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Thanks for the feed back but not sure which dizzy u talking about.

i know the 78-79 has the magnetic blocks kinda shape like a L.

and the zx has no L shape just looks like a ninja star which is the current install.

hears the magnetic ones give bigger and hotter spark.

I will try them out an compare with feed back next week

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Thanks for the feed back but not sure which dizzy u talking about.

i know the 78-79 has the magnetic blocks kinda shape like a L.

and the zx has no L shape just looks like a ninja star which is the current install.

hears the magnetic ones give bigger and hotter spark.

I will try them out an compare with feed back next week

The one with the L shaped pickup is the one that can move. The star shaped one is fixed in position. I don't know about one giving a hotter spark than the other. They both run 12 volts, and signal the coil, so ??? You should jump the ballast resistor with either, that will make the spark hotter, then you can always go aftermarket coils, MSD, etc.

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