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HybridZ

Fuel Safe Vortec cell


bjhines

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Here are some pics of my recent aquisition... I have been trying to find a good fitting fuel cell for my hybrid project for 6 months... I finally SCORED!!!!

 

v8fuelcell.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

This thing is LOADED with nice features.... twin pumps inside trapdoor sump... with 58PSI regulator mounted on the pump plate.

v8fuelcellsump1.jpg

 

v8fuelcellregulator.jpg

 

 

I am going to be using a bypass regulator to reduce pressure for carby use... I am also ordering a custom remote fill plate to make use of my factory S-30 fuel door... because the car may be stored in an attached garage at some point.. I am adding a carbon canister sytem for the vent...

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I could not give out their information while I was in the middle of a transaction...

 

I paid ~$400.... E-bay... It is dated 2000.. which makes it out of date for any serious purpose... It is brand new though.. never had gas in it.... I found prices as high as $2879.00 when it was new...

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That is a great find! I wanted that cell for my track car but 3 grand was tooo much. I still ended up spending about 1k on a cell with internal regulator and pump to power the ls-1. Good job.

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  • 4 months later...

Updater on the fuel cell install...

 

I am trial fitting most of the components before it goes to paint...

 

I made a mounting frame to hold it.... 1.5" square tubing... drilled to reduce weight...

 

lightenedfuelcellframe.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Skinned....

 

fuelcellframeskin.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eared...

 

fuelcellstrapfittingtop.jpg

 

I have used .25" insulator pads on top... the straps will get a rubber strip to protect the tank...

 

 

 

 

 

Final fitment...

 

fuelcellstrapfittingrear.jpg

 

fuelcellstrapfittingbottom.jpg

 

fuelcellstrapfittingbottomfront.jpg

 

 

 

 

...

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As I recalll the retail was several thousand dollars... It comes complete... all the bells and whistles..

 

Procell bladder 90% cut foam filled

powdercoated 16g shell

high$$ internal sump with CNCed aluminum flapper doors

twin dual redundant Walbro high pressure FI pumps..

58PSI regulator with twin feed INSIDE the sump

round access port for pumps and sump and AN-6 fuel outlet

oval access port with 2.5" fill with rollover valve, 1.25" fill vent with rollover valve, AN-6 equalizing vent

I am adding a fuel level sender and a return line

 

 

www.fuelsafe.com/pdf/Police.pdf

 

 

 

 

This is a magazine article discussing the ATL version of this cell.. they are EXACTLY the same...

 

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/atl_fuel_cell_overview_5700_race_engine/

 

 

 

It is Part number XC115A-M

 

15 gallon

 

I'll have to get the dimensions... It is a standardized size and shape though... pretty much the stock car small tank... I know it is the same as other's

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  • 1 year later...

I have fitted the filler in the stock location.

 

The filler has been cut off and spun 180 degrees to point towards the fuell cell. I am tying the fill-vent tube into the stock bung on the filler neck. I am eliminating the equalizing vent and relying on the vent in the stock cap.

 

The ID of the filler neck is 2.5". I will use a coupler between the fuel cell fill-hose and the stock filler-neck.

 

fuelfillerinside2.jpg

 

fuelfilleroutside.jpg

 

 

 

 

The lines are 3/8" aluminum and run in the stock tunnel clips. I used bulkhead fittings for the inside.

 

tunnellines.jpg

 

regulatorandfuellines.jpg

 

 

...

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I thought running fuel lines in the trans tunnel was a no-no in general racing inspections in case of a driveshaft/drivetrain failure? Dont' flame me, I am not an expert by any means. Mine is still in the same oem location and thought moving it for this reason just to be safer on the street. The tunnel routing keeps the line safe from road debris I suppose. Oh by the way, your really doing a great job on your Z. Exelent fabrication. :)

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The regulator requires that I use the same size return as feed. This is a high pressure system from the tank. It is reduced to carby pressure at the front regulator. The tank is plumbed with -6 fittings so I used all 3/8"

 

I considered placing the lines below the floors along the frame rails... But I really think this is better. I have a driveshaft loop that I still need to install.

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  • 7 months later...

I have finally buttoned up the cell permanently.

 

Fillplateandhoses.jpg

The tank and hose system has held enough pressure to balloon it slightly for 2 days soo far. I am going to let it sit for weeks if it will hold it that long.. It should.

 

 

The hoses are to spec. NO POLY just good old vinyl... or was it the other way around? In any case, The clear tubing is from a circle track supplier for that purpose. The rubber hose is just that... Rubber with lots of carbon. I still need to add the anti-static grounding for the entire fuel system.

The original plastic S-30 filler neck has been reinforced with a piece of exact sized(on the lathe) 6061 aluminum tubing crammed inside it where the clear hose clamps around the outside. I also deburred and removed the flash from the outside of the original S-30 filler tube for a perfect fit.

 

I had to TIG a pice of 2.5" 6061 aluminum tubing at a 45 degree angle to make this even come close to working. I realize that the main hose is nearly level for half the run. It will work just fine with the 1.25" fill-vent hose. It expells air right at the top of the neck. It also has a nice rise to keep splashes from shooting up the smaller hose. Overall there is about an 8" difference between the filler neck and the top of the tank.

 

 

 

 

I had to add a fuel level sender in an already busy fill-plate. I managed to get it to fit and clear everything... WHEW!!! You know what they say... Measure a 2-dozen times then cut. There is not one damn millimeter to spare, I don't think I even have a half a millimeter of clearance on that.

 

Fillplatetopview.jpg

 

Fillplatesideview.jpg

 

 

 

The $200 senders come in incremental lengths. You have to cut it to exact size for your installation. Not too bad but you cannot flex the sender tube too much or it will come loose. careful cutting and deburring. It was a multi step process but it came out just fine.

Fillplatesenderend.jpg

 

I had to remove the foam and cut a hole for the sender tube. There is a baffle right where the sender goes to the bottom(DAMMIT!) It ends up with a little clearance on the sump side of the baffle(thank god).

Fillplatesenderhole.jpg

 

 

thats it for now...

The Z-car will not debut in Oct. as I had wished. My BMW M3 blew it's headgasket and is currently sucking the money out of my wallet faster than any Z ever did. The M3 will be attending at CMP in Oct. in it's place.

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