5.Z Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I know this thread is a little old but the information is still useful. Anyways, I'm considering this for my car as my clutch is acting up and after a lot of testing different things and checking them I'm 99% sure I need to rebuild my hydraulics. I have two questions.... first, how do you get the clutch fork out of the transmission second, what size master is best for this slave? The JTR manual says a .75 bore master but thats for the camaro slave. Anyone know what would be a good bore master for the wilwood slave? Not sure if all t5 are alike but mustang t5 you will need to remove the tranny to get the forks out. There's a hole in the fork where the trowout bearing and where in tranny shaft go. I if you can't wiggle it out with tranny out unbolt the bellhousing from tranny and slip it out that way. I don't know about your 2nd question but I'm using a tilton 1" for master since I got it for $30. So far it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 ...second, what size master is best for this slave? The JTR manual says a .75 bore master but thats for the camaro slave. Anyone know what would be a good bore master for the wilwood slave? In Thomaz first post he states that he used a a 7/8" master with his original set-up and I didn't see anywhere in the thread that he changed the master after he made the changes to the slave. Check me though as I may have missed something. Just an FYI, for most people, myself included, the 3/4" master did not provide enough travel with the Camaro slave. Even if you go the route described in the JTR book you should use a 7/8" master to ensure enough travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiveSeventyZee Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Thanks for the responses. I checked out Howe Racing's website and they suggest a 3/4 inch master for their slave (which is the one I plan on using, it's very similar to the Wilwood slave) so I think I'm going to get a 3/4 inch master. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomaZ Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 Just want to confirm what Dan Juday said above. I use the 7/8†master cylinder and I still do. Have not tried the ½†Master as several on this forum claimed that 7/8†was to way to go. I could not find a way to get the clutch fork out without removing the bell housing from the engine. I also pointed that out in the first post. Good luck with your set up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewz75t Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks for the responses. I checked out Howe Racing's website and they suggest a 3/4 inch master for their slave (which is the one I plan on using, it's very similar to the Wilwood slave) so I think I'm going to get a 3/4 inch master. Thanks again Are you going to bolt the slave directly to the ear on the side of the transmission? I have the Howe slave but have not had a chance to install it yet. I think the ear is strong enough and it is the perfect distance away from the clutch fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiveSeventyZee Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 I think I am going to make a small mounting bracket out of steel stock. Although I haven't thrown out the idea of bolting it directly onto the transmission. I haven't gotten the slave yet so I haven't seen how the clearance is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josephg Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 hi guys, well after few weeks of not working on the car because of my job, a friend of mine and me came up with an idea, we will install the SC behind the tranny and next to the engine so the SC pulls the fork toward the engine wich is the thing i need, we canceled the fix rod from the SC and put a 13mm screw, then we fabricated a piece of aluminum that is identical to the plastic piece on the ford stock cable wich goes into the bellhousin, it slips on the SC and attaches to the SC by 3 5mm screws, we'll install it and place a holding clip from the other side excatly like the stock cable, i had to lengthen the rod so it arrives to the fork and have enough space to adjust the clutch: here are some photos, hope it will help people later, here u see how i removed the fix rod and put the screw. this is the aluminum piece were you can see the 5mm hole and the place to put the clip this is the fix rod i removed and im going to connect it to the other moving rod by a (2.5cm long/8mm thread) nut. this is the connecting nut I liked your design but I dont have a lathe so I made mine from plumbing parts sourced from home depot. I know it sounds terrible but it looks legit I will post picks later to night. Thanks for pioneering this setup. the new modified SC installed all together ( i know it looks like a freking weapon) a colser look to show the screw that holds the aluminum piece to the SC i'll install it tomorow on the car, bleed it and let you know how it works + more photos on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukcats07 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 (edited) For those of you who have a T5 bellhousing that pivots on the far side, i.e. the fork is "pulled" towards the engine, I stumbled across this solution. http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Clutch-Slave-Ford-V8.htm Uses a push-type slave cylinder mounted with a bracket aft of the clutch fork. The bracket looks simple to make and the pictures on the site make it even easier. I haven't personally tried this yet, but I'll be picking up the metal today and possibly the SC. Found this as well for those who don't want to make the bracket http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/test#3 Edited May 2, 2010 by ukcats07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 Found this as well for those who don't want to make the bracket http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/test#3 ^^ Excellent info source..... I found his half shaft shortning link valuable... thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukcats07 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 ^^ Excellent info source..... I found his half shaft shortning link valuable... thanks!! Wow, just checked this forum on a whim and saw this response. No problem, glad it helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomaZ Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 I noticed that the link to the photo with measurements on how to cut and drill the clutch arm doesn’t work anymore. Here it is again: [img.]http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=gallery&module=images§ion=viewimage&img=14699[/img.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpltree Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 ok so after i got my car running with this set up i have a bit of info to share... it works realy well easy to bleed ( if you read the distructions )... but my pedal is very heavy, i think it is my fault cause of bad geometrey, looking at it i thought it was fine but i had no way to tell till it was in and running.. i still dont know what the fix is but read this thread very slowwly and remember it as you make your bracket for the salve cyl.. if i get it nailed down i will let you know. dont get me wrong this set up works well i get full clutch disingagement, sorry i cant spell or maybe i can ? lol it is just that the pedal is very hard to push down , i have about 20 miles on the car and all is well but my leg shakes at the stop lights. i am open to any ideas . thanks again love this forum and all the help i have recieved, thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpltree Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 sorry this is a 73 240 with a 350 chev and t5 in it i love it so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomaZ Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 What size master cylinder do you use? I have the 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit). Another thing you might check is how far in on the clutch arm you drilled the hole for the slave cylinder. If its less then the 7,48†measurement I use that could contribute in making the clutch pedal heavier to operate. See the photo in item 71 above. Good luck in finding the reason! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpltree Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 mine is installed almost to the letter as yours, same part #`s from summit on the master and slave, with a - 4 line .. i cut the arm off just after the ball as you did , so i think that my bracket is off i will get some pictures to show you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpltree Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 ok so i drove my car again today, the motor runs super very strong but i spend a lot of time thinking about my shifting, because it is so stiff. the clutch is a stock auto zone $100 set so it does not have a bunch of P.S.I here is a photo of my set up bracket.. i cut the stock clutch arm just inside of the stock ball. also i am using the same part number willwood/ summit parts that you used -4 lines and all . if you look at the mounting surface and the end of the clutch arm i think they are really close to yours. the one change i did make is i did not cut any of the clutch master peddle rod off it is almost the same length as when it came out of the box... if you look just in front of the quad paddle tire you can see the bracket and the mounting edge. also on the clutch fork the hole is just inside the edge of the ball .. looking at your pics it seems that my bracket is just a bit further out towards the trans tunnel , i was thinking that it had to much angle but yours seems to have more than mine, i would be interested in knowing the distence frome the edge of the bell housing to the slave cyl hole in the clutch fork,, and th same from the trans to the slave mounting surface with the rod end.. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomaZ Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 Been under the car and measured. The distance from the edge of the bell housing to the slave cyl hole in the clutch fork is approx 66 mm (2.6â€), and from the transmission to the slave mounting surface its appox 60mm (2,36â€). I have put the measurements in a photo but I suck when it comes to computers, cant manage to upload to my album and link it (despite I have done it before ). I will try to e-mail to you, maybe you can put it in the tread…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiveSeventyZee Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 I just got my wilwood parts in the mail and in the instruction manual for the wilwood slave it says to use wilwoowd high temp 570 fluid or wilwood EXP 600 fluid. Is this really necessary for the clutch parts? because those fluids are both described as high performance brake fluids designed to dissipate heat and avoid boiling and whatnot. which are all good and necessary for brake components on a racetrack but are they really necessary for the clutch? especially on a street car. can I just use regular DOT 3 brake fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpltree Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 that is super i will check mine asap, thanks for checking it out in know it is not easy. i just dont get it mine works great but it is so hard to push . did you alter the rod length of the master at all ?i cut mine to match the stock one at first but it did not give enough throw to the slave so i added what i thought was the right amount to it do you think that it could be to long ? it is almost the same length as the willwood stock. could be just a hair long.. i will check my messurments tommorrow to see if i am close and will keep you posted thanks again.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomaZ Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 FiveseventyZee, I missed the instruction about using special fluids, I just used regular braking fluid, but Dot 4. Its polyethylene glycol based like Dot 3. hpltree I did not cut or lengthening the SC rod. The treaded portion of the rod is quiet long and it gave me enough adjustment range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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