Custom Rusch Motorsports P-90a head

[veritech-z]

He's in Z dreamland alright...

[OlderThanMe]

Here is the blog of the owner of the car

This is a google translated page...

The owner was talking something about an 89.25mm bore...WOW!! that makes really thin cylinder walls!!

 

and yeah...that motor took quite a bit of work to get the custom L6 block poured and get the head custom made...

[JMortensen]

I LOVE these translated pages! My favorite line:

Unless it is rice cake remaining overnight power & the engine which is torque, because it is useless, thinking at this point in time, it made.　

 

CLASSIC!!!

[HS30-H]

I take it this is a true Bob Sharp engine?

 

As for that being a P-90 head… Hmmmm. That chamber looks more like a welded N-42 than a P-90. Notice the porosity around the intake seat, (definitely built up), and the shape of the spark bolt boss, ala N-42/N-47, (I doubt Mr. Sharp used the N-47)… I’m 99% sure that is no P-90.

 

I LIKE IT!!! And who wouldn’t, it’s a Bob Sharp engine!?!?! Nuff said.

 

No, it is not a Bob Sharp engine. All the work was performed in Japan. It just has one of the old Bob Sharp valve covers.

 

And the way I read it, the mention of the P90 and F54 in the owner's blog was actually referring to his previous engine - which he described as almost standard spec. ( untuned ). The engine pictured above is his new engine - not the same thing at all.

 

I've seen and photographed this car in Japan a couple of times ( the owner is a member of the 'S30 Owners Club' ) and it looks really nicely engineered and well thought-out.

 

Alan T.

[OlderThanMe]

I would just love to have one of those valve covers...they probably pull in the $$$$s though.

[BRAAP]

No, it is not a Bob Sharp engine. All the work was performed in Japan. It just has one of the old Bob Sharp valve covers.

 

And the way I read it, the mention of the P90 and F54 in the owner's blog was actually referring to his previous engine - which he described as almost standard spec. ( untuned ). The engine pictured above is his new engine - not the same thing at all.

 

I've seen and photographed this car in Japan a couple of times ( the owner is a member of the 'S30 Owners Club' ) and it looks really nicely engineered and well thought-out.

 

Alan T.

 

Alan,

It is very nice indeed. If you have any pics of the car that you would be allowed to share publicly, I for one would love to see them.

 

Thank you for sharing details about hat nicely built car.

[RIP260Z]

Just a quick update for now, on whats happened to the cylinder head Paul done for me. I was going to incorporate it into a engine I was going to build. But I changed my mind and decided to get the 3.1 engine built right first time.

So, I sent my LD28 crank, Rusch cylinder head, Dellortos inlet manifold and some other bits, to Rebello Racing.

Dave Rebello was impressed with the flow Paul's cylinder head produced, considering Paul is currently not using a flow cabinet, and only required slight tweaking to get the required flow figures. The engine dyno produced peak bhp of 309.7 @ 6400rpm and 283.3lbs torque @ 5000rpm. So, the engine is now back in England (the first of its kind) waiting to go in the car.

 

Thanks goes to Dave Rebello for putting my engine together, but also to Paul for doing the cylinder head in the first place. I am sure Paul is pleased to have his work judged and praised by such a quality engine builder.

Regards

Ian

[1 fast z]

Paul builds GREAT cylinder heads, my only real competition, hehe. But I would not trust the REBELLO HORSE POWER, as we all know rebellow hp, is not real hp. There have been a couple guys that have gotten motors built there, dynoed over 300 horese on their dyno, then put the engine in there car, and it produced barely over two hundred HP. So just beware, when you take the car to a chassis dyno.

[TimZ]

Paul builds GREAT cylinder heads, my only real competition, hehe. But I would not trust the REBELLO HORSE POWER, as we all know rebellow hp, is not real hp. There have been a couple guys that have gotten motors built there, dynoed over 300 horese on their dyno, then put the engine in there car, and it produced barely over two hundred HP. So just beware, when you take the car to a chassis dyno.

 

Ahem... SHP - Shetland HorsePower

[BRAAP]

Just a quick update for now, on whats happened to the cylinder head Paul done for me. I was going to incorporate it into a engine I was going to build. But I changed my mind and decided to get the 3.1 engine built right first time.

So, I sent my LD28 crank, Rusch cylinder head, Dellortos inlet manifold and some other bits, to Rebello Racing.

Dave Rebello was impressed with the flow Paul's cylinder head produced, considering Paul is currently not using a flow cabinet, and only required slight tweaking to get the required flow figures. The engine dyno produced peak bhp of 309.7 @ 6400rpm and 283.3lbs torque @ 5000rpm. So, the engine is now back in England (the first of its kind) waiting to go in the car.

 

Thanks goes to Dave Rebello for putting my engine together, but also to Paul for doing the cylinder head in the first place. I am sure Paul is pleased to have his work judged and praised by such a quality engine builder.

Regards

Ian

 

 

 

WOO HOO!!! Yes, we are indeed quite pleased to receive such feedback from "Rebello Racing Engines". Shortly after Dave Rebello ran Ians engine on the Dyno, I talked with Dave on the phone and it was truly humbling to hear the compliments he had to say regarding our work.

 

Thank you Ian.

 

I have “heard” of the West coast HP being optimistic, I’m not taking sides. Rebello Racing Engines are the typical choice for most of the front runners in sports car racing events, and the fact that our cylinder head installed on a Rebello short block produced comparable numbers to a comparably built same displacement complete Rebello engine on the same dyno, (regardless of the actual HP numbers,) really means a lot to us.

 

Thank you Ian for your patience and allowing us to build your cylinder head and we hope you enjoy your L-6 to its fullest,

 

Paul and Krystin Ruschman;

Rusch Motorsports

[TimZ]

I have “heard†of the West coast HP being optimistic, I’m not taking sides.

 

Sorry - I wasn't either - I just couldn't resist.

 

Congrats on the great results with your head!

[RIP260Z]

Noted 1 FAST Z. I intend to take it to a chassis dyno where factors that can give different figures are marginalized (like the dyno has been calibrated properly).

But the main point in updating this thread was for Paul's benefit, as he done the head in the first place. As you can tell from his post, Paul is pleased, and so am I. At least those people using a Rusch Motorsports head (or intend to) know the work has been praised by someone else with a good pedigree.

Ian

[NZeder]

No, it is not a Bob Sharp engine. All the work was performed in Japan. It just has one of the old Bob Sharp valve covers.

 

And the way I read it, the mention of the P90 and F54 in the owner's blog was actually referring to his previous engine - which he described as almost standard spec. ( untuned ). The engine pictured above is his new engine - not the same thing at all.

Alan T.

I agree and that is without using translation software or knowing Japanese I get this by looking at the pictures.

If you look at this pic of the block notice the lack of the 4 bolt holes round the oil filter area. All F54 have them - this block does not. So this would make it a P30 aka L24/L26 block (unlikely) or the hard to find but they do exist as I have one early N42 casting.

 

The owner was talking something about an 89.25mm bore...WOW!! that makes really thin cylinder walls!!

Now back to the early N42 comment above it is said that these early N42 with the different casting around the oil filter have a high nickel content in the steel and are aslo solid ie non siamese unlike the later N42/F54's (do a search and you will find that N42 are siamesed)

So these early N42 can take a big bore easier than the later blocks. You can get 90 or 90.5mm from a Nissan block I know as I have a N42 at 90mm currently.

 

So now back to the picture of the engine with the bob sharp cover. I am thinking this is a different engine as the looking at the pic you can see it has one of the oil filter direction changers installed. These usually bolt on the 4 holes around the filter = a different block to the one shown without the head.

 

Well that is my take just by looking at the pictures.

 

 

Now back on to the topic of this thread -- Excellent work on your head and figures Paul you no doubt are happy with the results.

[z-spec]

I agree and that is without using translation software or knowing Japanese I get this by looking at the pictures.

If you look at this pic of the block notice the lack of the 4 bolt holes round the oil filter area. All F54 have them - this block does not. So this would make it a P30 aka L24/L26 block (unlikely) or the hard to find but they do exist as I have one early N42 casting.

 

 

Now back to the early N42 comment above it is said that these early N42 with the different casting around the oil filter have a high nickel content in the steel and are aslo solid ie non siamese unlike the later N42/F54's (do a search and you will find that N42 are siamesed)

So these early N42 can take a big bore easier than the later blocks. You can get 90 or 90.5mm from a Nissan block I know as I have a N42 at 90mm currently.

 

So now back to the picture of the engine with the bob sharp cover. I am thinking this is a different engine as the looking at the pic you can see it has one of the oil filter direction changers installed. These usually bolt on the 4 holes around the filter = a different block to the one shown without the head.

 

Well that is my take just by looking at the pictures.

 

 

Now back on to the topic of this thread -- Excellent work on your head and figures Paul you no doubt are happy with the results.

 

 

 

I wondering wath rod lenght and bore they use on this block ?

I really looks like a L24/L26 block if you look at the freeze plug line up .

[Tony D]

Given a 22mm pin diameter, print the photo, scale with a caliper, and measure center-to-center on the rod photos and I bet you get pretty close to figuring it out!

 

This is the kind of thing I do (similar to NZ): Look at those Japanese Articles, and then scale, scale, scale! LOL

 

And before Braap comes back on and says it: "core plugs"< please!

LOL

 

The interior of that block looks a lot like one someone showed me at a shop in Holland... he he he

[z-ya]

Ian,

Your head is finished and yes we did find you that piston stop, identical to the one pictured in “how to degree your cam†thread.

 

Being as your cam is a Rebello cam, the lash adjustment is checked at the valve, not under the cam lobe. Here is a picture of a modified .008†feeler gauge while I was “cold setting†your vale lash prior to bagging the cylinder head. If you don’t mind, I would like to use the pics I took of your head to update the “How to Degree your cam†thread referencing Rebellos lash adjustment procedure.

 

 

 

 

I found this mini feeler gauge set for you guys running Rebello cams:

 

 

http://www.oem-tools.com/products/show/25341

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYD93U/?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

I'm getting a set to figure out what lash pad to run on my build.

[MadMaxDallas]

Few months ago, I polished and ported my head myself, not to the beautiful head you did but none the less I did the best I could for a first time. I had the seats touched up by a head shop as I did nick one.

 

I can feel the difference, it does "breath better" and now that I have done it one time, I want to do more, bigger exhaust valve, more material removed etc.

 

Now for my question, while I was at the head shop, I was looking at the "vortex" heads, and wondered if leaving some meat up along the valve stem and spiraling down one side to the bowl would make a nice vortex to support the exhaust flow out the runner, but still support the valve stem better. Or is there really still enough valve stem support without doing this and just clearing down to the bowl on the back side of the valve stem like most seem to do it?

 

Attached is my garage head work.