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Is It OK To Permanently Tilt The Engine Like This..Spacer Weld In.Pics


slownrusty

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This is the game plan....he is going to plane the turbo flange at an angle thereby clocking the angle of the turbo up towards the intake...

 

Whats the plan for the bolt heads when you torque it down? if you plane the turbos flange at an angle when you go to bolt it on you might not be able to get a correct torque rating out of it as the corners of the head cut into the housing or just catch on the edge making you think you have it tight only to have it loosen up down the road. Are you planning on making a angled washer to make up for this...or is it going to be so minimal that it shouldnt be a problem? you could always plane the manifold, fill the bolt holes and then have them re-drilled and threaded at the proper angle.....OR you could sell the turbo to me and then get one that fits :):lol:

 

 

I'm curious as to what the solution will be...the things we do to ourselves in the name of speed :)

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Guys he is planing the manifold flange not the flange on the turbo itself...take a look I already had him weld a 1/2" spacer on it and then cut it back, so there will be lots of meat left on it. Plus I am going to heim joint that manifold to the block and tranny bellhousing for additional support.

 

Sparky - I am unsure what you mean about the head bolts? As the intake and exhaust manifolds are bolted to the head so once I torque down on the head the intake and exhaust manifolds and the head all move down together at the same rate. Yes I am going to make 4 angle washers for the turbo manifold flange.

 

My fabricator is going to plane only outer edge A to meet dashed line B (approx a 0.4" shave) without touching the bottom edge of this same flange, thereby causing the turbo sit closer to the intake by rotating the turbo up..hopefully giving me the .8" I need down at the steering linkage for clearance.

181154090.jpg

 

Hope that helps?

 

Yasin

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Sparky - I am unsure what you mean about the head bolts? As the intake and exhaust manifolds are bolted to the head so once I torque down on the head the intake and exhaust manifolds and the head all move down together at the same rate.

 

 

not head bolts' date=' but bolt heads, as in the heads of bolts :) I wasnt paying attention to the fact that you were using studs on the manifold (dont know why I assumed it didnt use studs) So In my mind I was thinking you were "bolting" the turbo to the manifold, so that when you tight the bolts the corners of the hex heads would be at an angle causing problems....BUT:

 

Yes I am going to make 4 angle washers for the turbo manifold flange.Yasin

 

perfect :) thats answers my question.

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I believe the KA engine was tilted over, but yes, the 720 engine was mounted on a tilt to clear stuff, and the bellhousing on the transmission was tilted to match. I used to have a 510 with a 720 engine in it and the L20b tranny was tilted drastically. The trans mount still worked, it was just REAL hard to get the Xmember bolted up (once it was it was fine) The shifter pointed right at me and fell close to hand, which was cool, but the tranny started going because the orientation of it made it impossible to fill fully. Changing the oil was also a major pain in the butt because you had to JACK UP THE CAR on one side to get all the oil out (if you didn't you would leave about 1qt extra dirty oil in there....Just putting this out because if you used the 720 mounts you might get away with using a KA transmission with no mods to the tranny mounting at all! I'm guessing you could also use the lower section and pickup tube of a 720 oil pan....this way your oil levels can remain the same

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