Guest dan4011 Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 heres a video of my car, im breaking it in so i didnt really get too far into boost. (4lbs was the most) and didnt actually floor it or go past 4000rpm, im running whats in my signiture and it runs very smooth, still using stock 76 ecu too, smooth, hmmm, i dont get why people think the n/a ecu's are so bad, if you set them up right theres no problems. and yea, this is a mostly stock 76 n/a motor, little work done to it. if the video doesent work i guess give it some time, i uploaded it a little while ago and it seems you have to keep trying to play it to get it to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 if you set them up right theres no problems. So, what'd you do to set up your na ecu right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dan4011 Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 well its all in the timing, injector size, and air flow meter for the most part, just saying the n/a ecu is still good for lower psi turbo set ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue_leaf Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 well its all in the timing, injector size, and air flow meter for the most part, just saying the n/a ecu is still good for lower psi turbo set ups. Could you please a bit more specific here - I had no idea that you can run turbo having stock L6 ecu:o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 What the ... is a "n/a turbo" ? : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 What the ... is a "n/a turbo" ? : ) A natural aspirated car with a turbo. Or a non turbo car that has a turbo added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Zleep Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 i had my 79 setup like that... it worked out beautiful, at like 8~9psi, no intercooler. -hobbs switch on the csv, set at 3psi. -locked mechanical advance (set at 19~20deg. at idle) -didnt really mess with the afm, as it cuts out by 3500ish rpms, and the 7th injector took care of the rest. i should have upped the fuel pressure, but the plugs were nice and brown, so i figured whatever... worked like a champ! and then sold it only to do it again in an s30..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Hows a hobbs switch work? Whats a csv? and what does putting a hobbs switch on the csv do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarang Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 I think he means the CSV is the cold start injector. A hobbs switch is a pressure actuated contact switch. You can buy them pretty cheap in different pressure actuations and contact patterns ( normally closed or normally open contacts). A normally open switch set at 3psi would close the electrical contact at around 3psi to send power to and actuate the cold start injector for extra fuel. most of the hobbs switches have 1/8th NPT threaded ends for installation. Hope that helps Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 seal up the advance slots on the dizzy tighten up the afm increase fuel pressure with a RRFPR (FMU) or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator N/A ECU is nice.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 I run 14 psi with stock NA injectors and NA ecu on my 75. I just limited the total advance to 26 degrees by welding up the advance slots, Set the initial timing to 18 degrees, Tighten up the afm flap by 8 or 9 teeth, yes tighten Run a FMU to ramp up fuel pressure to 95 psi at 14 psi of boost. I use a 4 psi hob switch to activate another fuel pump in parallel. I'm also running 7.4:1 cr (stock turbo cr). My fuel pressure doesn't even start to come up until 4 or 5 psi due to a bleed valve delay in the fmu. The engine would run too rich when the pressure came right up. I found it easy to run up to 8 psi but after that the fuel pressure curve became tough to get right. Once I got it working at 14 psi, I dare not touch that FMU. If a higher compression engine was used then I would just lock out the timing to 20 degrees, run stock boost (8 psi), and set the fmu to 55 or 60 psi. FYI, I use a bell engineering FMU and msd fuel pumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 A natural aspirated car with a turbo. Or a non turbo car that has a turbo added. Either way - it's still a contradiction : ) Its either Turbo/supercharged or N/A. In this case, the car went from N/A to Turbocharged. End of story. I win. Yay! : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dan4011 Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 well by n/a turbo i meant a naturaly asperated motor turned turbo. just to clarify it was a n/a motor before i turbod it so people wouldnt think it was a zxt motor. but comeon you know what people mean when they say n/a turbo around here lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Zleep Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 i forgot to add that i had stock compression aswell... n42/p79. and yes mull, you win...lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 With a P79 head and a L28 block you have two compression choices using stock components. 7.4:1 cr with dished pistons (stock N42 block). This makes stock turbo compression. or 8.8:1 cr with flat tops (stock F54). This is stock 81 to 83 zx NA compression Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 So your telling me I don't have 6 injectors but technically 7?(75 stock l28) And that instead of getting larger injectors you just use the csv injector as extra fuel? Where is the csv injector, near the throttlebody somewhere? Appreciate your responses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Yes, the cold start injector is that one that mounts right behind the throttle body. It's not the same as the rest of your injectors I don't believe. It's supposed to give you cold start fuel enrichment, but it's a time honored technique to gimmick it up for boost enrichement too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 I ran a 83 turbo engine in my 71 for a year with a 75 ECU and harness. I swapped thee guts from my 75 afm into the turbo afm housing. I used the stock injectors and kept it under 8 lbs of boost. Timimg was key for sure. I also strickly regulated the FPR and return line. It wasn't the best setup(why I switched) but it work fairly well and I would think for stock boost it would be just fine. Oh I had no CSV on my setup... tried the Z31 eccs and stopped, and am now running the stock 280zx eccs system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Zleep Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 the cold start valve is right behind the throttle body on the intake. it has a 2prong clip like a notmal fuel injector. I ran the hobbs switch on the power side of the csv, so when i hit 3psi, it completed the power to the csv. the other wire just grounds it. so yes... there were 7 injectors. tonyD informed me in a very good email that this setup makes good for 8~9psi, and i think less during the winter. the csv is on the left, hobbs switch on the right. and the csv is located where that blockoff plate to the right is. hope that explains a lot! *edit* pyro, i had a stock n42 block... dished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted September 2, 2006 Share Posted September 2, 2006 Thanks for the pics, but I have a question. You said you ran the hobbs switch on the power side for the csv. Where did you get power from?(random wire from battery?) You make it sound like you ran it in series with whatever power wire there was, which would mean it would only turn on when you were starting(cold start) and you were hitting 3psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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