Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide

[twoeightythreez]

Chris, just wondering if you are using the RB's dropping resistor? (the plug you're talking about goes to the injectors!) You really should use it if you're not RB's have low impedance injectors.....though I'm sure you are because it's running and all

Zmaster...it's really not hard to do this wiring, you just need patience (and a soldering iron) )

[Rumnhammer]

Yeah, it's being used. an update the car finally runs great. In the end we pulled the wolf ecu out and used an Apex i Power fc. After trying the stock ecu and stock ecu's from other cars, and having the idle problem not go away, the Apex i power fc was plugged in and the idle problem was gone! I'm thinking the 90mm throttle body and intake manifold volume were confusing the stock ecu, because everything else was checked.

The injectors were changed to 550's and the car dynoed at 302rwhp. Now I just need to figure out the clunking in the rear end???

Chris Rummel

[Bishopsrock]

EDit I just found out from someone answering a post as to what sender to replace the RB one with, you can skip the above step if you replace your RB sender with a toyota sender part #TS198 that goes in where the RB sender is and will make your stock Z gauge work.

Chris Rummel

 

Just to provide a little more info for people living in countries where the #TS198 isnt available - The Toyota Dealership Part Number is 83420-16020. In the UK this costs £22.88 plus VAT.

 

If you want to pull one then here are a few choices that it was fitted to:-

 

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 88-91

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 LE 88-91

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 Le All Track 88-91

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 DLX 88-91

Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GT 86-89

Toyota Celica 2.0 L4ST 87-89

Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GTS Sport 86-89

 

Hope this is helpfull.

[voltron_boi]

is the rb20 the same wiring like the rb25?

[Rumnhammer]

I'd say that it is pretty close, I'd have to check the manual for the ecu printouts to be sure. In the wiring though, it really shouldn't matter because you will be wiring up the same wires to run the car. ie all the wires that power up the ecu etc are wired up the same, just like installing different radios in a car, even though the radio will have different features you wire it into the car the same way.

hope this is understandable.

Chris Rummel

[zmaster]

well i do have patience, and a soldering iron.

[voltron_boi]

so does the ecu printout the same thing? i really want to no, before i buy the rb20 swap.i have a 75 280z, and i don't want to be paying 550 for the shop to do the wiring, when i can used this form to do it myself.i rather spend that 550 and get an rb25 instead if it isnt the same.

[Rumnhammer]

if you have a choice between the RB20 and RB25 don't make your choice based on knowledge of the ecu pin out diagram. i would chose the 25 because it makes more power more easily and it comes with the proper tranny to handle as much power as you are willing to throw at it.

 

It is a simple matter to do a search or get a DVD RB manual to get copies of both printouts of the ecu pin outs. YOU WILL NEED TO DO THIS if you are undertaking this swap. If being able to interpret or read a ecu pin out is beyond your skill level, then the $500 would be money well spent.

Like I stated at the beginning of this thread, I posted this info with the understanding that the people attempting this job already have a good working knowledge of car electrical systems, reading schematics, etc.

If you have this knowledge then the wiring info I posted will make it very easy for you to do, if you don't then, you will need to pony up the cash, since if you screw up the wiring you can turn the swap into a serious headache, damage other wiring, ecu etc, or worse case senario end up with a half done swap that doesn't start run, and you will end up paying even more money, because it is a bigger pain for a pro to go in after the fact and sort out improperly done wiring and fix what is wrong AND get it running then it would have been for the pro to just do it right the first time. In effect if you attempt it and screw it up, you will end up paying more to get it right then if you had just paid someone in the first place.

Sorry if this sounds so harsh, but that is the reason I stated the disclaimer at the beginning. it also saves trying to sort out peoples wiring problems, later via email or whatever after they end up with a car that won't start and then try to have me figure it out on line. That just is a waste of time for everybody.

Chris Rummel

[Bishopsrock]

Ok, now we are going to separate out the wires we are going to need to hook up, leave these long and cut the rest off short and tape them up.....

 

...lastly the main solid black ground, this is easy to see it consolidates all the grounds and ends in a ring terminal.....

 

 

Im doing the swap without the inner half of the main white plug (as shown above) that connects the engine/ECU harness to the inner car wiring loom. Im connecting my RB26 engine harness to my 240z loom using an off the shelf simple 15 pin bullet connector. I will be soldering the wires onto the pins as well as crimping them.

 

I have all the other connections sorted now but cannot figure out for sure which wires from my two white engine harness plugs should go to earth - i.e. lead to the Main Solid Black Ground on the inner half of the white plug shown above.

 

Chris, please can you (or anyone in the know) define this to help those doing it without the in-car side of the loom like me?

 

Thanks

[tay-fu300zxtt]

tell me about it.

well i meant for a Z32

[Bishopsrock]

Anyone any advice on the wires that need to be earthed post above? - i'm in the middle of it right now and could do with some help.

 

Thanks

[Rumnhammer]

On the in car harness section all the Solid Black wires go to ground and are all connected. Just make sure they are all SOLID black not black with white stripe or anything like that. Going from the ecu pin out If you don't have the inside harness, find the ones that are listed as ground and wire them to go to ground.

They are all interconnected anyway, so as long as they are listed from the ecu as ground or are solid black you can safely send them to ground or earth as they say in the UK

 

I usually will run a ground wire from under one of the ecu case screws to ground as well to ground the ecu itself, since a lot of times in these swap cases, the ecu is held in place with zip ties or otherwise not well grounded.

Hope this helped Andy.

Chris Rummel

[Bishopsrock]

Hi Chris,

 

Thats great - im on it right now.

 

Thanks

[drunkenmaster]

Next you take the Tranny harnesses both Z and RB and use your oil pressure sender from the Z to that you connect the green wire like stock like this pic you can wire back the RB sender wire

 

 

Then connect the 2 starter signal wires Yellow for Z and black/white RB like in this pic

 

 

Next connect the reverse switch wires from the z harness to the sender wires for that on the RB harness and do the same for the neutral switch like in this pic

 

 

Excellent information here, thanks for your effort.

 

One section I am unable to quite follow though is the above regarding the transmission harnesses. I think it is just the wording as it is quite brief and not quite as descriptive with colours and locations.

 

Can someone please reword this for me? Is it referring to splicing wires and using both harnesses?

 

Thanks!

[Bishopsrock]

Hi,

 

This is my first go at using pics so please stick with me if it doesnt work out.

 

Below is a pic of the dropping resistor taken off my R33 RB26DETT:-

 

 

Its purpose is to supply the injectors with a lower voltage than the car normally operates on. Im told that the reason for this is to enable the injectors to work properly with a weak battery so that the car will start.

 

Consequently, if you start your RB26DETT without a dropping resistor then you will fry your injectors by feeding them a higher voltage than they are designed to take - so its vital that you use it and connect it properly.

 

In the Skyline it connects directly into the engine relay box as in this pic below:-

 

 

Please can anyone confirm how to wire the dropping resistor in?

 

The wiring diagram seems to show it providing power directly to pins 101, 103, 105, 110, 112, 114 of the ECCS. However, it looks like these wires run directly to the injectors themselves rather than coming from the dropping resistor?

 

Please can anyone clear this up for me?

 

 

Thanks

[Rumnhammer]

Andy I wish I could help you out there, but I don't recall seeing that on the RB25 harness, probably because the 25 uses high impedence injectors.

I think I would have remembered seeing that.

Maybe on of the guys that did the 26 would be more help with this question. try posting is as a seprate thread.

Sorry

Chris

[chrism]

Hay Andy,

How many wires does that dropping resistor have? Can't tell with the picture. If it only has two wires, then it is most likely not for the injectors but rather the fuel pump.

Look closer at the FSM diagram. Also, the dropping resistors do not lower the voltage to the injectors. The voltage is pulled low by the ECU and the dropping resistor limits the amount of current that goes through the injectors so as not to fry them. Voltage is not the enemy, current is.If you do have to have a dropping resistor then what I found out is that one wire, usually the white wire goes to the switched battery supply and the other 6 individual wires will go to one side of the injector. The other side of the injector goes to the ECU. When the key is turned on, the injectors will have 12v on both sides. When the engine turns over, the ECU will pull one side of the injector low with a ground pulse. This will pull the 12v low causing current to flow through the injector. The injector opens at this point. I have an RB20DET with high impedance injectors that do not use the dropping resistor pack. The picture that you have looks just like the dropping resistor used for the fuel pump on the RB20. It keeps the pump for getting to much current and burning up. Make sure you check very closely with the FSM. I thought my dropping resistors were missing from the swap until I took a second look at the RB20DET FSM and found that it did not have them. I kept confusing the fuel pump dropping resistor with the injector dropping resistor pack.I'm not saying that you don't need them. Just make sure they are the right ones.

Picture of dropping resistor pack for injectors

Picture of Dropping resistor for fuel pump

Hope this helps.

 

 

[Bishopsrock]

Thanks Chris & Chrism for your replies. I think that I have got this sorted now so I will write it up below and contribute to your thread. The usual proviso that you should check and satisfy yourself that this is correct before copying me and powering anything up applies. There is no warranty with this info so please don't blame me if things go wrong!

 

IMPORTANT - this information on what I did is for those people doing the RB26DETT swap only.

 

With the RB26DETT conversion you must wire up the dropping resistor to power up the injectors otherwise you will damage your injectors. You can either buy an off the shelf dropping resistor and wire it in yourself or do it the easy way like me as set out below:

 

On the GTR the dropping resistor is located on a metal plate bolted to the injector side strut tower which also accommodates the PCM Valve (boost solenoid).

 

 

The dropping resistor is a shiny oblong aluminum covered box with a solid inside. There will be seven wires coming out of it - 6 black and one white all ending in a grey plug.

 

 

When you buy your motor make sure that you get the dropping resistor and to make life easier also make sure that you get the plug that connects to it with about 6 - 7 inches of wire to spare so that you can then easily connect onto it when your doing the install.

 

The car that my engine came out of was a JDM R33 GTR. If your engine came from a different model then the colours of wire in your setup may be different.

 

Essentially, power goes to the injectors via the dropping resistor as shown in the diagram in the post above provided by Chrism.

 

You need to find the wires leading to the injectors and then connect these to the dropping resistor. Then you need to provide power to the dropping resistor itself.

 

The injector power wires in my R33 loom were coloured:

 

1 - Red

2 - Red/Blue Stripe

3 - Red/Black Stripe

4 - Red/Green Stripe

5 - Red/White Stripe

6 - Red/Yellow Stripe

 

I traced them to a double plug connector leading from the eccs connection with the injector harness, past the turbos and towards the front of the car. I verified that they linked to the injectors using a test meter. The injector has two wires, a ground trigger linked to the eccs and a positive feed linked to the dropping resistor. For the avoidance of any doubt the wires we are talking about are NOT the injection trigger wires which link directly to the eccs and are predominantly white in clour.

 

 

 

The wires in this plug were the same colours as those leading to the dropping resistor. I cut them off the plug and directly connected them to the dropping resistor using solder connections covered with shrink wrap. Because I had got the dropping resistor connecting plug, I was able to simply connect each colour coded wire to its counterpart wire of the same colour. This has placed my dropping resistor on the same side of the car as the turbos but a little further forward. You could easily shorten or lengthen the wires to enable you to place the resistor anywhere you please.

 

Next I needed to get power through the GTR bulkhead plug. To do this I selected a redundant heavy gauge thick solid yellow wire and cut this both sides of the black bulkhead plug. This then gave me a clean route through the bulkhead without any cutting of the plug or any messy extra wires.

 

I gave the injectors power by connecting the yellow wire into the thick solid red wire AF04 that Chris uses to power up the injectors in the RB25. I then extended it and connected the other end to the white power wire for the dropping resistor.

 

 

Hey presto - you have just powred up your RB26DETT injectors via the dropping resistor.

 

Hope this helps.

[Rumnhammer]

Andy, that is an excellent addition to this thread, and exactly what I wanted to have happen with this. I want it to continue to evolve with any new additions that make the swap wiring either easier or as in this case more diverse applying to the RB26 as well as the RB25.

These additions only make it easier and more clear for everybody.

Outstanding and Cheers mate.

Chris Rummel

[Bishopsrock]

Hi Chris,

 

Without your thread I wouldn't have been able to understand my wiring or connect it up - I'm more than happy that I could add something - Thanks a million mate!