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Rumnhammer

Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide

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As an FYI, most low impedance injectors are the same resistance. The ballast resistor pack for the 280Z looks exactly like the ballast pack for the RB's that is posted earlier. If the ohm rating of the Z injectors are the same as RB injectors then you are probably OK.

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I am having problems following the harness install.

Everything is the same cept for a few little things.

I dont have 2 large white connectors only one and I only have 1 relay on the relay pack.

Ray

 

I have what I thought was this R33 RB25DET engine loom from a 94 skyline series1

I expected the loom to have 3 master plugs and the twin relay block as shown in the beginning of the thread?

 

th_5124dc7e.jpg th_c2a98e02.jpg th_e4056842.jpg

 

Where as mine above only has 2 and the twin relay block ?

I can see 6 or so of the ecu wires may have been looped

(approx 5" back from the main ecu plug) but I don't think that's where the missing plug went?

Will it make any odds?

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I have what I thought was this R33 RB25DET engine loom from a 94 skyline series1

I expected the loom to have 3 master plugs and the twin relay block as shown in the beginning of the thread?

Where as mine above only has 2 and the twin relay block ?

Will it make any odds?

 

Just as an update touch wood no !

I traced the wires required tonight and they all seemed to be there in the single smaller plug

Result :D

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For an RB25DET series 1

I've read the thread but see no mention of what I believe is a map sensor?

Is it needed and if so can someone explain how to re-wire it in?

 

th_map1.jpg

 

Also I have these 2 multi plugs shown below by the large + power cable

I see the large black/white goes to the starter solonoid but am unsure of the rest?

 

th_map2.jpg

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I have what I thought was this R33 RB25DET engine loom from a 94 skyline series1

I expected the loom to have 3 master plugs and the twin relay block as shown in the beginning of the thread?

 

th_5124dc7e.jpg th_c2a98e02.jpg th_e4056842.jpg

 

Where as mine above only has 2 and the twin relay block ?

I can see 6 or so of the ecu wires may have been looped

(approx 5" back from the main ecu plug) but I don't think that's where the missing plug went?

Will it make any odds?

 

My harness was the same as shown here with one white harness.Everthing hooked up the same, just ignore the other white plug.You may have already figured this out by now.Just putting in my two cents.

 

Mike

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And thank you everybody else who have contributed to this thread! I have no mechanical or electrical education, but followed the instructions in this thread. Fired up the 25 today, started first try:-)

 

It was just great to finally hear the nice exhaust note of the RB:-)

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Wow this Thread needs cleaned up!

 

My website is down for now and so are the links that I posted. I hope to have it up and running soon and the diagrams will again be available.

 

Im still working on a S2 schematic. Its been on the back burner for sometime. I have one sketched out on paper in pencil that covers both RB25det S1 and S2 R33 harness.

 

Something else that has been bothering me is the power distribution. I keep having electrical loads mess with my fuel pump, injectors, etc. Im not sure if it would help, but Im going to try isolating the power distribution through a power bus bar in the engine bay routed to a blade style fuse block. Im sure there are two things going on here that are compounding the problem. One is that I do not have the fuel pump modulator that should compensate for such loads, and Two is that the cars harness is 36 years old and has a few issues of its own. So at least I can eliminate problem 2 by isolating the power distribution. My aftermarket ECU has a voltage compensator that is adjustable via programing so personally I can eliminate number 1 as well. Others will have to figure out how to deal with that in their own way. The most important reason to isolate the power from the car harness though is that the cars circuits were not designed to handle the power(amps) that the ECU and other related devices draws esp with an older wire harness that may have small amounts of corrosion in places. The Main Power feeds for: the Fuel Pump Relay, ECCS Relay, Keep Alive PROM, and Ignition Coil Relay are the main ones I can think of right off hand that can be isolated. The stock fuse block for my 260Z keeps blowing fuses. The circuits simply were not designed to have an extra 10-20amps drawn through them. I suspect the 240Z and 280Z suffer the same exact problems. The fuse size for these circuits is based on wire size, length, and load. The fuse size is rounded down from the maximum amp draw of the circuit. I believe a little logical thought process will lead you in the right direction from here.

 

I also HIGHLY recommend that the wire used for the fuel pump relay low voltage side be beefed up a bit(larger gauge) and think about building some circuit protection. I had some problems with that circuit called "fly-back voltage". It was caused by the relay turning off. It cost me $100 to have the ECU repaired after burning out the fuel pump driver. I have not been able to determine a fix, but Im sure some kind of "Zener Diode" would do the trick. I just do not have enough knowledge to build this circuit correctly.

 

I am not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination. I have some intermediate electrical diagnostic skills that have proved to get me into trouble in the past. So take this with a grain of salt; at least until someone with an extensive background in electrical engineering can respond to this.

Edited by rayaapp2

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hey guys, r33 rb26.... on the white connector that is "unused" i see that 2 wires are running back to the ecu. its pin 56 (Throttle sensor output signal red/yellow) and pin 30 (Sensor Ground (throttle sensor / engine temp sensor) which is black/ blue stripe). what do these do? can i completly cut this "dash harness (white)" out and remove all the wires?

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Buy a simple N5402 diode from Maplin or Radioshack as shown in the pic below:-

 

05052008041.jpg

 

 

 

where is everyone getting this diode from i googled it but appears to be more of a uk thing.

 

doing some googling it looks to be a standard 3amp diode, Radioshack does have, but its not the N5402 part number... does that matter?

 

edit: if your radioshack says they dont carry that, go check yourself.

part number 2761143 its a 3amp 200v diode :P $1.59 for you budget watchers :P

Edited by ZT-R

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Does anyone have a diagram that shows how to wire the motor as a standalone? I have an aftermarket harness in the car and it would be helpful to know what wire needs power, ground, power with ignition and so on. Or better yet does anyone have a diagram for wiring a painless or Ezwiring harness to the rb25det.

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