Rumnhammer Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 Well, after putting the new Nismo regulator on last night, I started it today and adjusted the pressure. Only problem is, I'm still haveing the same problem. I'm thinking that I'm eliminating a few small bits of the problem, but it still persists. The car starts and idles fine, but when it is reved up, it has a hard time settling back to an idle, it will sometimes stall. I know the AAC is working because when I move the throttle I can hear it clicking. I think the regulator helped though because it doesn't seem as rich now, the damn idle still is giving me trouble. Any ideas? I'm really scratching my head a bunch now, the idle and timing are spot on. I'm thinking about going back over some of the plugs and making double sure that everything is pluged in tight. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Looking good Chris. You'll have it nitched by time my RB 810 will be starting. Woops did I let the cat out of the bag ... A lot has changed since I had my R31. Did you try popping out the plug in the MAF and adjust that since getting the rest squared away? Since Matt isn't on here anymore. You might want to join the RB group on Yahoo http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rb26dett/ or it might be faster to email him directly for help. matt@motorworx.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VG33TT Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 Sounds like you need to re-circulate the BOV. Try removing the vacuum sorce from the BOV. If that solves the problem then you need to re-circulate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted December 8, 2006 Author Share Posted December 8, 2006 Thanks guys, I emailed Matt, he thinks it is an air leak too, I discoed the line going to the BOV and plugged it, and it didn't make a difference, FWIW the problem is happening with any minor rev up from idle, we're talking just bearly moving the throttle, not really enough to make any boost or activate the BOV. To start it and let it idle is fine though I mean rock solid idle, it only screws up when you touch the throttle. I'm kind of thinking that if it is not an air leak, then maybe it is the percentage of Throttle position opening. Because I'm running stock ecu but I have the Greddy intake manifold with the Q45 thottle body, to keep it plug and play I replaced the q45 TPS with the stock one, but 20% of 60mm is different from 20% of 90mm if that makes any sence. I'm thinking about trying the Q45 TPS back on it to see if it helps since there is some reference to the TPS in the last couple pages of the Greddy manual in kanji so i can't read it. I'm also checking for leaks as well. We are replacing the ecu with a programable one that nixs the MAF anyway so that could resove the problem too. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted December 8, 2006 Author Share Posted December 8, 2006 On a lighter note, I think I solved a differnt problem, I was having. The tranny was popping out of gear, particularly the ones to the rear 2, 4, and reverse. I took the top of the shifter off to check the spring was still in place and after replacing it, noticed that it was snicking nicely and staying in gear. Turns out the stock Z shifter boot (the rubber one under the shifter plate) was new replaced as of the swap. I had cut the hole larger to accomidate the larger RB shifter, only problem was with that in place the stiff rubber was litterly pushing the shifter out of gear! I was thinking man, this tranny only has 50k miles on it and nothing unsual came out when I drained the tranny. so I removed the boot and cut the hole larger to make it so the shifter moves inside the boot without contacting the shifter at all and I think that may have solved it. Man, sometimes the simplist stuff is the most frustrating!!! Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 hey Chris, i didnt know you had a Q45 tb.. also, do you have a Z32 Maf? you might want to look into getting an AFC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NISSAN4EVER Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 On a lighter note, I think I solved a differnt problem, I was having. The tranny was popping out of gear, particularly the ones to the rear 2, 4, and reverse. I took the top of the shifter off to check the spring was still in place and after replacing it, noticed that it was snicking nicely and staying in gear. Turns out the stock Z shifter boot (the rubber one under the shifter plate) was new replaced as of the swap. I had cut the hole larger to accomidate the larger RB shifter, only problem was with that in place the stiff rubber was litterly pushing the shifter out of gear! I was thinking man, this tranny only has 50k miles on it and nothing unsual came out when I drained the tranny. so I removed the boot and cut the hole larger to make it so the shifter moves inside the boot without contacting the shifter at all and I think that may have solved it. Man, sometimes the simplist stuff is the most frustrating!!!Chris Rummel Ya but solving them is so satisfing no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 This sounds more like a running lean problem. It's getting just enough fuel to idle but any increase in air kills it. Have you checked the plugs for color? You're running the stock ECU on an upgraded intake system and it could easily be flowing more than the ECU is expecting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Chris what's the latest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 Well, I'm pretty sure it is not an air leak. I have played around with the AAC valve screw and it is a bit better, although it still will stall. on a test drive, it will stall after driving and coming to a stop, after that I played with the TPS and the AAC again but haven't test driven it since doing that. I think what I need to do is get the TPS properly adjusted using a multimeter, because I think the inesiation point on the TPS needs adjusted (the point where the AAC clicks to control the idle). Other then that I have clunking in the rear end after I replaced all the bushings with poly, although I haven't torqed the control arm bolts yet so I'll do that and see if that goes away. I hope. I'm so close yet haveing this little stuff happen is really frustrating me. working on it, I really want this done! Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 DAMN THE AAC. The AAC and TPS are good I am assuming?? Richard had a good reply on the yahoo rb group if you hadn't read it already. Good Luck man, you'll get it. Don't forget to torque the spindle pin nuts with the car on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted December 18, 2006 Author Share Posted December 18, 2006 Thanks Joe, I really need the incouragement, I put the car on the ground and loaded it up per the instructions and got the two control arm bolts on the rear torqued, but that damn rear sway bar is in the way of torquing the ones on the front down, so I'm going to have to pull the swaybar off to torque the ones on the front (pretty substantial torque 115ft lbs!) then reinstall that later. I'm really hoping that torquing the control arm bolts will get rid of that clunking, since going poly back there got rid of most of the movement otherwise. My friend who's car this is is getting the stand alone engine management, so I should be able to set all that idle crap from the ecu, but I really wanted to get this puppy going before using that. I tested out the TPS and it is giving proper resistance. I'm sure I'll get it sorted, this little stuff is the most frustrating part of the swap so far. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 No problem Chris. What stand alone is he going with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted December 19, 2006 Author Share Posted December 19, 2006 The wolf V-500 probably be here after the first of the year. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 The wolf V-500 probably be here after the first of the year.Chris SWEET!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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