NZeder Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 Who makes that solid diff mount you have there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 Looking good Tom. How much neg camber are you shooting for, and how much additional travel do you think it will give the halfshafts? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted November 16, 2006 Author Share Posted November 16, 2006 NJeder, The differential mount is made by Arizona Z Car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted November 16, 2006 Author Share Posted November 16, 2006 John, Mr Coffee has recommended that our cars seem to handle best with 2.5 degrees negative camber and about 1/8 toe in for the rear. I installed the shafts with about on 1/2" free play in them in the unloaded position. The arms could be adjusted more to give the axles more free play. I've not made a final decision yet as to where I will end up. Of course I will need to set the camber by adjusting the coil overs when I through with setting the control arms. I hope the little bit of rear toe in will help to settle the car at high speeds and reduce the wondering that causes great personal puckering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 With the camber plates up top and the adj. LCA's you should be able to get enough travel to the halfshafts and whatever camber you want. Back the coilover off and set a jack under the LCA, then run the strut thru the full range of travel, and check the halfshaft play in several positions. I hear you on the pucker problem. At the end of the VIR front stretch, the bumpy section really gets my attention. I think the rear wheels are touching the track ever 100' or so!!!! jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4everDATSUN Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 is it possible to use two of the shorter axles instead of the long and the short? i know one measures 19 and the other measures 20. and according to the install recomendations we have to shorten both by reversing the inner races of each outer joint. nvm: last night i read a few threads down, brian510 and a few others had the same idea i did. i took out my old diff. stub axles and saw that one splined end was longer than the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blakt Out Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 I'm having what I think is this issue. Axles haven't disintegrated, but I haven't tracked it yet. Once the axles got put into the car, did this cure it (LCA adjustment out)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Looks like Tom hasn't been around in a couple months. He had a custom CV axle made shorter as I recall. I know it was discussed on the forum here. Jay Hitchcock did the same thing and he made his too short and had to redo them longer. There's a thread his modified 280ZXT CVs here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/61716-half-shaft-update/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Tom wound up getting some custom axles made. He never got enough compression travel with the 300 axles. His car is very low, and that made the problem even worse. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blakt Out Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 That's what has me wondering too. Is mine close to as low as that one? This is the best pic I have now. I'll soon get one from under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blakt Out Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Here we go. Got to it faster than I thought I would... Looks like it's the "correct" angle of around 15 degrees, right? I love the possibility of pushing the bottom of the arms out could take care of it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Depending on how those inner tubes are positioned you can effectively change the length of the control arm too, that might be a factor. I recall setting my control arm jig at 15" from the inside pivot to the outside pivot. You could check yours and see where you're at. You'd want the middle of the hollow tube to the rod end on the outside. I think stock is 14.5". I made mine .5" longer to avoid these issues. One thing you DON'T want to do is unscrew the rod ends a lot to make the arm longer. That is a bad idea. But you can rotate those sleeves, although you will then be adjusting roll center, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Give it a try and see. Tom's car is track only and 2" - 3" lower than yours. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Jon - I'm the one running a Quaife and the 300ZXT CVs. I destroyed a nice 3:90 gear set using aftermarket CVs after less than 50 miles that had both sides of the CVs the same length. I solved the issue by installing a set of OEM CVs and AR Zs RCAs that allowed me to get another 1/8 a side in width. As to ride height my 240 sits at 5.75 front and 6.0 rear @ rocker lip. Since the new CVs and the RCAs were put in 2 yrs ago I have driven the car about 12k miles and tracked in several times with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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