Guest Anonymous Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 So I've been putting a lot of thought into this lately... I'm building up a '71 with a 327 (gonna make 430+ bhp). Now we all know that we've got a pretty flimsy unibody, and I wouldn't want it to twist into a pretzel under all that torque. Now here is my dilemma.... I am very low on cash and would like to prioritize my spending as best I can, however S&W are having a $40 off sale on their roll cages till the end of the month (very tempting!) . So I could either install an 8 point rollcage first and weld in the subframe connectors at a later date, or I could do it the other way around. Now what I want to know is, which is more effective in stiffening the chassis? I could go with subframe connectors, along with a triangulated front strut bar and X shaped rear strut bar. Pros? Costs next to nothing, and I can fab them myself (need to learn how to weld though) Cons? Might be weaker compared to the roll cage, but I could be wrong. The roll cage might offer added benefits in stiffness, and definitely improved safety, however it is $180 I would rather spend on other areas of the car at this point in time, that $40 off is very tempting though! So what should I do, and in what order should I do it? I have a feeling that the subframe connectors + F & R strut bars should give me sufficient rigidity, making the roll cage a luxury that can be dealt with later (car won't be daily driven for months....) Or would installing a roll cage negate the need for subframe connectors? Would you say having both is overkill/redundant? I've already seen what Pete and Tim have done for subframe connectors, and would love to see what the rest of you have come up with! Anybody with a roll cage care to comment? I really wanna hear what you guys have to say about this, and I say we blow this topic wide open for the benefit of all... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 I believe that a properly installed rollcage should be attached to the subframe connectors and the strut towers. I would do connectors first so that when the rollcage was installed, it could be tied directly to the subframe connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 how about subframe and a roll bar for now?? roll bars arent that much, and they will tie into the subframes, you can always add on later.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 I you do your own work , and can weld, subframe material is cheap, maybe $10- $20. For that price, and the fact that the roll bars are on sale, I'd do both! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 Omar, I haven't forgotten ya! I have Dave looking for more World Class T-5's for us. He says don't get my hopes up but he will let me know if one shows up.!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 Either way you will need to strip out most of the interior. Unless you want to do this twice, put them both in at the same time. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 quote: Originally posted by LONG ROD327 Z: Omar, I haven't forgotten ya! I have Dave looking for more World Class T-5's for us. He says don't get my hopes up but he will let me know if one shows up.!! Thanks a lot Jason! I've been looking high and low for a good T5 with no avail... Let me know as soon as you find out! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 My interior is already stripped and will remain that way for some time to come... So I should go with the subframe connectors first, and mount the rollcage on them... So does anybody have any pics or anything I can use as reference? Any websites or resources of some sort? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 Omar, Here's some pics of my new floors and connectors: web page Sorry, they're not very detailed, but should give U an idea. Or check out Pete's site: web page. (hope U don't mind Pete?) Tim ps. Sorry you couldn't make it on Sunday. [ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: Tim240Z ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 Not a problem, Tim. I re-read my page that you referenced, and added some details on my 6 pt S&W roll bar installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 25, 2001 Share Posted October 25, 2001 I'm taking a look at S&W's site right now and they offer an 8 and 10 point cage for the 240z for $150 and $200, I was wondering both how do you know it's $180, is that before or after the $40 off and where does it say $40 off til the end of the month, did you call? Also, in northern cali, bay area, where would be a reasonable and good place to get a roll cage installed (remember college student, don't have tons of cash). Also, how much would reasonable be, I have no clue, are we talking $100 install, or like $1000? Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 25, 2001 Share Posted October 25, 2001 In addition, how important are sub-frame connectors if I put in an 8-point cage? Also, I don't plan on crashing, the cage is simply for those "what if" days that seem to impact teenagers lives often. Also, what's the weight gain on something like that, and what counter measures can I take to lower the car's weight back down to either pre-cage weight or better? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted October 25, 2001 Share Posted October 25, 2001 None of us plan on crashing but sh*t happens you know As to how important the subframe connectors are vs the cage, the connectors give you the flat plane stiffness while the cage would give you the 3-D stiffness. I would do the connectors first as mentioned before, the cage should tie into the connectors. Weight, depends on the tubing, Pete used .0830 or something, I used 0.120 cuz that's all they had, I saw Tim240z's car on the weekend and he used something else. I believe the chromoly cages are lighter and stronger but more expensive as well. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted October 25, 2001 Share Posted October 25, 2001 Ok, I saw that someone posted that S&W was selling cages for $40 off this month so I ordered one. It was $160 shipped to my door and will be here by the end of next week. Wouldn't you know it, I already have subframe connectors! That was my old ground dragger exhaust system. You can also see the spacer for my Viscous LSD conversion with CV's. BTW, I have a buddy here local that will install for $100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted October 25, 2001 Share Posted October 25, 2001 you could run a tube from the base of the front of the cage to the base of the rear of the cage at floor level. this would run parallel with the door sills and you would need to tie them in with tabs allong the way. I am not sure how this would work with the seats though. There might not be room. I have seen it on race cars though. BTW. WHERE IS THE SPELL CHECK Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted October 26, 2001 Share Posted October 26, 2001 Have you ever met someone who PLANNED on having their car totaled? Not too many of hem around and the ones that DO plan this migh tbe aiming for YOU! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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