neorazz Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 im starting a thread that hopefully with achive sticky status first what is the stock turbo specs for any given year ? compressor wheel trim / exhaust trim any housing changes needed ? oil or oil/water ? est. hp ? just as base line refrence second what are you running ? year z model compressor wheel trim / exhaust trim any housing changes needed ? oil or oil/water ? est. hp ? mostly cause im rebuilding my turbo right now and want to go with more power (of course) and was finding it difficult to find base #'s STock T3 from a 95 300z Heres the burt oil buildup that killed the engine it was originaly attached to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niner11 Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Hey, did that turbo ever go back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Holy crap!!! If my wife saw me with "dirty" car parts in our house - rebuilding them on our carpet... I would be looking for a new place to sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 Don't know if this really needs a sticky There are alot of compressor maps out there and posts on here. S130 and Z31's up to 87'. Compressor wheel is a T3 60 trim. Standard T3 turbine wheel. Compressor flows 34 lbs/min. If you want more power, finish rebuilding it and sell it. You could go with a T4 compressor on it that will move more air but the turbine will limit power just as much. I didn't see a pic with the turbine wheel out of the housing. Don't forget to replace the piston ring on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clsatt Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 I'm working on rebuilding an old rajay right now, I'll try to get some pics up soon. none right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nscason Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 wow. that was one dirty turbo. i got a hold of a t3 and a parts t3. i got both off of ebay and the parts t3 was $10 and had all of the rebuild parts. saved myself at least $80 in parts. neither of my turbos were that dirty. i media blasted the parts that i was going to use and sprayed black heat paint on the turbine side. i am doing a turbo swap to my N/A 77 280z and just wanted to start off with the stock parts for now. after all it is a jump from no turbo at all. i have limited myself from not working on the turbo in the house. what i have learned from people that rebuild these for a living is to coat everything in ENGINE ASSEMBLY LUBE. that is very important and possibly overlooked. you dont put a cam back in a motor dry do you? turbos should be handled the same way. all of the reading that i have done on this site i havent seen anything about putting them back together with the lube. if you dont have the turbo back together yet, get it media blasted at a machine shop then put a nice coat of heat paint on the bearing housing and turbine housing. i am also going to port out the whole turbo. why not, it is apart now. there is my $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyrualive Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 My turbo center bearing section is stuck to the exhaust and I can't get it apart. I took the six bolts out as far as I could, but it was still stuck. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Did you clapm it in a vise and tap it with a hammer ?I would try some heat on it. If it's propane it will take a while. A torch would be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyrualive Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Did you clapm it in a vise and tap it with a hammer ?I would try some heat on it. If it's propane it will take a while. A torch would be better. I burnt the living $#!+ out of my hand after heating the exhaust / turbine section. I quit after that. I'll give it another shot. Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nscason Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 about taking the bolts out... there isnt enough room to get a socket on, and a regular opened end wrench will strip the head off the bolt. i had a few of the bolts get stuck on me. i sprayed the hell out of them with release agent and then let it sit for a while. after that i used a tubing wrench. it wont slip off the bolt and you can get it in the tight spots. you can try hitting the wrench with a hammer. it might work and it might bust the bolt head. put the turbo in a vice and maybe try a small cheater pipe on the wrench. i will eventually give. hopefully it dosent bust the bolt. you'll be in a world of hurt then. hope that helped some. it worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyrualive Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 about taking the bolts out... there isnt enough room to get a socket on, and a regular opened end wrench will strip the head off the bolt. i had a few of the bolts get stuck on me. i sprayed the hell out of them with release agent and then let it sit for a while. after that i used a tubing wrench. it wont slip off the bolt and you can get it in the tight spots. you can try hitting the wrench with a hammer. it might work and it might bust the bolt head. put the turbo in a vice and maybe try a small cheater pipe on the wrench. i will eventually give. hopefully it dosent bust the bolt. you'll be in a world of hurt then. hope that helped some. it worked for me. The bolts came off with a good bit of effort, but my issue was with the separation of the turbine from the center bearing once the bolts were loose. Your note is completely true though! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nscason Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 i used a hammer and tapped the sides alternating till it came off. mine was the same way when i was taking it apart. it separated in about 2 mins with the hammer. didnt do any damage either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravRMK Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Clamp that sucker in a vice, and smack it with a dead blow hammer alternating arround the housing untill she pops off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyrualive Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 OK. The vice and hammer worked well. Now, I'm trying to figure out how to separate the shaft with the turbine on it from the center bearing section. Attached are pictures of where I am now. I really appreciate your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nscason Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 it should just pull out. there is a small piston ring that is on the end where the terbine blade is. that is mostly what is holding it in there. if you are going to do a full rebuild there isnt that much harm you can do. try tapping the other end of the shaft with a dead blow hammer or a hammer and 2X4. it should pop out. guys correct me if im wrong. i have taken 2 apart and that was a few months ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 Ya, a light tap is all it should take to get it out. When you go to stick it back in with a new ring, get the piston ring seated down in as far as you can and give it a tap to get it back in. Put the gap facing up. Don't forget the heat sheil too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyrualive Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 I hit it lightly with a resin hammer. Nothing happened. Then I looked inside where the journal bearing goes and there is a second snap ring. Is that the one I ignore and just tap out the shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyrualive Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Nevermind. I tapped it again and it came out. Now here is the real question. Should I buy the full rebuild kit or the partial one? Full: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120138638191&rd=1,1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraspaz Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 When rebulding, is there any place to buy a new upgraded compressor wheel so that it can go back together as an upgraded turbo? I have looked but could only kind one supplier for wheels but their site doesnt give any guidance as to which flows what. heres what i have found. http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/comp_wheels.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 im starting a thread that hopefully with achive sticky status second what are you running ? My turbo is a T04E .50 AR compressor housing with an Innovative Turbo compressor wheel (see below compressor map). The CHRA is watercooled with oil fittings in the stock Datsun locations. It's a "big shaft" with a 360* bearing. The turbine housing is a modified Datsun .63. The turbine wheel is a T3 Stage V 10 blade. This turbo was built so I could use the Datsun internal wastegate and so I would need a spacer to clear the exhaust manifold. At some point I'd like to go to a GT35R with a .63 turbine housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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