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Help choosing a welder 220v/110v?


240zV8

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Now you can take the money you were going to HAVE to spend on the board and invest it in a TIG or you could buy that MM175 + a small plasma cutter, then you'd be the man to beat in your neighborhood.

 

That money is going straight into a Lt1, t56 combo :-D. I can make my own exhaust and mounts now, so the driveshaft will be the only outsourced job (hopefully) with alot of help from people here.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just bought a new MM175! I got it for $715 to my door. I was gonna go local, but the cheapest i found was $837 (thats with tax included). So it was worth getting it online and getting the consumables and gas for the same price. It's gonna cost $30 to fill a 80cuf cylinder, not bad. I can't wait to try it out.

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I do have one question for people that own a mm175, what liner does it come with, like what size wire can I use with the liner it comes with? .024"-.035" right? I got some flux wire with it because i need to weld my trailer that can't fit in the garage.

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My Lincoln 135 does very well and has for a few years now.

 

110 Volt welders get a bad rap. Mostly, I think, because of power issues.

 

Key thing is the power source. Try to run the welder from a dedicated circuit as close to the house panel as possible to minimize voltage drop. Most of the time the poor old 110v unit is plugged into the same circuit as garage lighting and gawd knows what else (probably the spare freezer, right?)

 

If you have to run it on an extention cord, get a 12 guage cord if the run is 25 feet. 10 guage if it is longer. Heavy cordage will not only help keep the required power available, it will minimize the risk of hurting the welder itself from running on lower than specified input voltages.

 

Those of you happy with the 175's or any unit running on 220v, are running dedicated circuits!

 

So far as the comment made about a 220v unit saving energy, that is bunk. Yes it draws less amps. Half of a 110v unit, but on both legs of power.

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the line running to my 220v receptable is 6-3 wire.. i'm gonna get a extension cord made of 8-3 wire i think. Should be coming tomorrow, so i'll post how it works (only with flux wire, haven't got a bottle yet)

 

I'm gonna have to go on a scrap steel run so i can have stuff to practice on.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest shawnstam

you should check out millers, I have a miller dynasty 200 and I can configure it to plug into a 110 out let or 220. The machine figures out what voltage it is running on and does the rest all you have to do it weld. It does AC or DC welding so you have the option to weld aluminum.

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Ya know, I have a little Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 running Flux and for something on a budget the little sucker works its arse off. I really enjoy it. I did all the fabrication on the Festy which consisted of 2 sets of 3 motor mounts (after the first set I got to looking and figured out a way to set it back about an inch further) along with a SLEW of backets and other odd mounts along with an adapater for the AFM to run a cone filter. Ive done exhuast welding, rust repair, frame repairs. For thing guage stuff its pretty nice. I know its not what your after, but just mentioning it for anyone else that reads this by way of being informative.

 

The HF autodark hood is a really good unit by the way. Poeple bang it for some reason but I picked it up for like 53$ with the insurance and its spent a year in my collision repair class and my own garage under fairly heavy useage frm myself and other trusted friends and its still kicking around without a sign of trouble. For an AD hood on the cheap I think its a fine unit. good size lens to,

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well i ended up getting a MM175. I used flux for awhile but after switching to solid wire and gas it was incredible. It's so much easier to get a good weld, and control the penetration. Plus I love the smell of c25...lol. it does smell kinda good, prolly not good to inhale it though.:shock:

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